Want to do a front end tirerod/ball joint service on my 360..

Yes.

2 x 181882 BALL TIE ROD
2 x UBJ-360K UPPER BALL JOINT KIT
2 x LBJ-360K LOWER BALL JOINT KIT
1 x 184241 HYSOL EA 9360 (CONF.50ML)
1 x 184241-T HYSOL DISPENSER GUN (SEMPAK)


If you also want the press tools, they are here:

1 x UBJ-360-BRT Upper Ball Joint Removal Tool
1 x LBJ-360-BRT Lower Ball Joint Removal Tool

and the installation guide: 360/F430 Ball Joint Installation


All items linked above are in stock for immediate shipment.

 

Matt. You can do the lower ball joint with the a-arm in the car.

 

I replaced the shock bushings while had the suspension apart as well.

 

Is there a say to tell when the bushings are about to become bad?

 

I have ordered lower ball joint assemblies from Ricambi as well as the tool, epoxy etc.
Based on location and access, I will remove the lower A arms. Ricambi has a link to the Ferrari 360 Workshop Manual Procedure on their site.

 

Monkey is instructed to remove the bolt on the hub that retains the a-arm. I think it's an 8mm hex bolt (don't hold me to that). There may be a little round angled metal piece that in the hub that accompanies the bolt. Just hold onto this and note how it is positioned in the hub. The a-arm should drop below and/or you can move it into a position where you can better service it. Use a c-ring removal tools to remove the boots on the balljoint, upper and lower. Do the top first.. the balljoint may just slip out. If not use the remvoal tool to get it out. When both are removed, take out the old balljoint. You'll see the old hysol adhesive in the balljoint socket. clean it out and gently clean the socket for reapplication of the hysol. You can then roughen the outer aspect of the new balljoint with the sandpaper/carbide paper. use the old lower circlip in the a-arm to hold the ball joint in the a-arm. Apply the hysol to the balljoint and the inner a-arm. Then press it into the a-arm. Then reapply new boots to the balljoint. I think aldous voice has a photo section on his site with the steps.

 

Assuming this is the same proceedure as the 430, i dont see anyone mentioning curing the adhesive in an oven ?

 

That is to "speed up" the curing. It will cure fully in 5 days at 77 deg F according to the label.

If you follow the instructions closely you may want some of this stuff in the boots when you re-assemble....
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If a PPI could tell they were bad then they are going to fall right out without tools because it's not the ball joint that fails its the "glue" that holds it secure in the A-arm. So it has has "wiggle room" once the adhesive breaks down. The ones that are still installed as assembled by the factory are only held in place with the 2-part adhesive. I used a small press to take out a good one but your tool (or a length of threaded rod with some nuts washers and sockets) will do the trick easy.

There is a lot of finesse with messy stuff at the end that would be a lot easier if you had the parts on the bench IMO. Especially if it's your first time with these.

 

I am just going by the info from the ferrari dealer, to stick it in the oven to cure, looking at the workshop manual for the 430 under a heading of important in red letters it says oven at 90 deg for 45 mins.

 

I did mine in the summer so the latent heat helped. Once you mix the two parts of the hysol... it's going to cure even at room temperature. Like epoxy it just might take longer. it's been over a year on mine and they're holding up fine. Just be careful.. Ferrari Hysol Curing oven is part# 90-23322 and lists at $45,000. Naturally it's a rebranded sunbeam oven with a Ferrari logo on it. lol

 

It is probably to save time in a workshop , so the car goes back ready. My kitchen oven costs nothing and i have 1 of those portable thermometers to check it. Just waiting for the winter to bugger off as cold in my garage.
The red line grease above, i will probably use motor bike synthic chain lub as it goes on like wd 40 but dries to a grease not affected by salt from the roads in the uk. These Litium based greases are ok for fresh water, but salt makes it go very hard.

 

IMHO, I would not load the "unbaked" arms. And 45min vs. 120hrs of curing is a really BIG time difference ;-)