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Vintage Windshield Installation Question

Discussion in 'Vintage (thru 365 GTC4)' started by TLKIZER660, Dec 23, 2005.

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  1. TLKIZER660

    TLKIZER660 Formula Junior

    Jul 30, 2004
    315
    Québec
    #1 TLKIZER660, Dec 23, 2005
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I was able to remove the windshield and backlight from my 365 GT 2+2 quite easily with a little help. The rubber seals were in good shape and still flexible. Even the stainless steel trim was subsequently removed quite easily. During glass removal, however, we found quite a lot of black flaky material, with the consistency of a brittle crayon, between the rubber seal and the windshield opening weld seam and between the windshield and the seal. It looks like some kind of black caulking material that has dried and become brittle over the years. I've researched this and other chat rooms as well as a google search but find no mention of any kind of sealer or caulking being used during vintage windshield installation - K-Y jelly, vasoline, or soap & water, yes, but no sealer. Am I missing something? Advice please? I don't want leaks so I want to do it right the first time while the instrument panel is still out.
    Tom Kizer
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  2. Glassman

    Glassman F1 World Champ
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    Apr 23, 2002
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    Montana, Oregon, Hawaii
    #2 Glassman, Dec 24, 2005
    The black sealer is redily available from CR Lawrence Co. It is applied out of an oil squirt can type thing. Just look up windshield sealer and you will find it. It is also OK to just use black silicone sealant out of the tube.
    Glassman
     
  3. Rickenbach

    Rickenbach F1 World Champ
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    #3 Rickenbach, Dec 24, 2005
    Use a butyl based sealant from Kent Automotive. Avoid silicone, it doesnt work and it is impossible to remove. Using silicone is asking for rust.
     
  4. TLKIZER660

    TLKIZER660 Formula Junior

    Jul 30, 2004
    315
    Québec
    #4 TLKIZER660, Dec 24, 2005
    Glassman and Rickenbach: I just checked out both the C.R.Laurence Co. and Kent Automotive web sites and bookmarked both. Thanks for the advice. I found what you recommended and it's exactly what I need. I had previously been advised to avoid silicone sealant because it is really difficult to remove. I had already figured out that use of silicone sealant would require destruction of the seal if ever the windshield needed to be removed in the future. Thanks for confirming my opinion.
    I also found on the C.R.Laurence Co. site, a roll of 1/8" x 1" putty tape to reinstall and seal the chrome quarter window and sill trim. I had been looking for that product unsuccessfully for some time. Also on the Kent Automotive site, I found 1" wide x 5/16" high closed cell foam weatherstripping for my trunk lid. It's a perfect replacement for the weatherstrip that I removed. You have both been a great help - Thanks.
    " I love FerrariChat because its members are so helpful"
    Tom Kizer
     
  5. Glassman

    Glassman F1 World Champ
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    #5 Glassman, Dec 24, 2005
    For clarification, silicone is used between the glass and the gasket. It is nice to use because when you need to replace the glass it cleans out of the old gasket very easily, but nothing sticks to glass better than pure silicone sealant.
    I do agree that for general windshield repair a butyl sealant is the standard.
     
  6. TLKIZER660

    TLKIZER660 Formula Junior

    Jul 30, 2004
    315
    Québec
    #6 TLKIZER660, Dec 24, 2005
    Would my life be easier if I installed the seal to the glass with the silicone sealant and let it cure before installing the glass/seal assembly to the car with the butyl sealant?
    Or, should I try to deal with the glass, the seal, the wet silicone, the wet butyl sealant, and the string all at one time?
    I imagine the latter would make a good pilot for a comedy series. I doubt that I have enough hands and arms to accomplish it without a few years experience.
    Tom Kizer
     
  7. Dbone

    Dbone Karting
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    #7 Dbone, Dec 24, 2005
    Sorry to change the subject, but The reference to silicone and rust- does it apply to hoses? I'm in the final stages my engine overhaul and I'm reinstalling my water pump on my C4. My shop said that the new silicone water hose from the pump to the engine block is the best. The hose is only 3 to 4 inch long. I don't want to replace this in the future. While the engine is out, I'm try to cover every thing I can now.

    Thanks in advance
    dave
     
  8. Glassman

    Glassman F1 World Champ
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    Apr 23, 2002
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    #8 Glassman, Dec 24, 2005
    All at once. If the glass dries in the rubber seal and isn't seated correctly you may never get the glass and gasket into the frame. You want everything moving and flexable when you pull the string. Also have someone carefully apply pressure on the glass as you pull the string. Look in the CRL website for the windshield HOOK TOOL, it will save your ass if you get in a jamb and the string comes out. The tool has a curved and rounded edge to get inside the rubber molding.
     
  9. TLKIZER660

    TLKIZER660 Formula Junior

    Jul 30, 2004
    315
    Québec
    #9 TLKIZER660, Dec 24, 2005
    That's what I was afraid of. I think I'll hire an expert to help me the first time, along with my regular help. Thanks for the advice.
    Tom Kizer
     

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