Valvoline VR1 20W50

Every time I read discussion about oils. Today you just ave to use a full synthetic oil, whatever you want. I use a 5W-40 as I don't drive the car along motorways, but you can use a 10W-50 too if you want to stress the engine often. It's a nonsense to use a 20W-50 mineral or semi synthetic when there are much better oils around
Also in a turbocharged engine, better have a full synthetic 40 than a semi synthetic 50, due to the less solid parts it leaves if it cracks.

Use a full synth oil and change it often. And if the engine drinks a lot af oil, change it very frequently as it's destroyed by combustion gases (the blow by)

Ciao

 

Interesting. I will ask about this, there must be a reason why certain mechanics are opposed to synthetic oils other than being set in their ways.

 

I don't know in the USA, but here in Italy mechanics usually don't know anything about oils

ciao

 

I have three separate mechanics (one for the 328, one for the E-type and one for the 911S). Each mechanic, individually, recommends and uses VR-1 20w50. Yes, it's lacking in detergents but that's not an issue when the oil is changed annually (after less than 1,000 miles).

 

what do they say about the fact you warm up your precious engines with a 20W oil instead of a 5W oil? do they know what it means? do they think the engine wearing is the same during the warmup? Do they consider that a vintage engine often is driven more at low oil temperature than at high temperatures?

Please ask them all those questions...

I won't ever put on my cars an oil that starts with 20W: 10W or less, thanks.



ciao

 

There are a dozen grades of ZDDP. And any machines most import determining value when it comes to tribology is viscosity at operating temp. Zinc is fine, but it's only supposed to be for boundary lubrication events. Keeping a full flulike film between the park asperities on the lubricated surface is the goal. And the difference between synthetic and mineral oils is semantics. There are some very low quaility synthetics, and some very high performing mineral base stocks. It's all in the application and how the add packs polarize to get a clean, cool, and dry result.


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Many Lotus Esprit turbo owners recommend the VR1 Racing oil. I use it in My Esprit and since I do generally drive less than 1K per year(summer). It's been great for me

 

What is the oil weight and type originally spec'd for 308?

 

the best available 40 years ago: Agip Sint 2000 20W-50. The 308 has sodium filled exhaust valves too: just a mad would put them again on the car.

My idea is the same for the oil...

ciao

Edit:
Ferrari said to change cambelts every two years... we all know that a modern cambelt lasts much more years than two. I changed pistons but i didn't install 35 years old Borgo pistons, I put in the car eight modern CPS pistons, ten times better. So, why should I have to put in the engine an old type of oil? I go with enhanced mechanical parts, if I have to change them. This said, a 20W-50 oil works, of course: but the 5W-40 or the 10W-50 full synth is better.
The important thing is not which oil to put in the engine: the important thing is to have fresh oil in the engine and at the correct level

 

It is that way everywhere. They still peddle wives tales about synthetics or anything else.

 

There are better choices available than using a diesel oil in a gasoline engine. Diesel oils have less anti-foaming agents than gasoline oils.

 

Interesting stuff, now I happen to run a 2.9l quattrovalvole that never had cats (italian delivery in 83). Sounds like there is nothing to worry about using the Valvoline, but I still don't understand why (the zinc) it is desirable to use it? And should I only use it for 1000 miles?
Can someone enlighten me, please?

Cheers

braq

 

I've been using the VR1 Valvoline for over 10 years with no problems.

 

I will waste another minute to talk about oils. Question: If the car worked well with a 41 years ago oil like the 20W-50 Agip Sint 2000, which oil can I put in the car, today, after 41 years?

Answer: all, as the worst one we have today is much better than the 41 years ago oil.

ciao

 

Not entirely true. The base stocks on average might be better, but the good stuff they used to put in oils causes cancer and fish to have three eyes, it worked much better than the limited packages allowed now by government environmental agencies. Id say the best oils were produced into the late 80s to early 90s. Since then nearly every oil spec has doe link to emissions or disposal issues.


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A Mechanic that says not to use synthetic needs to get out of the 1960's. Ferrari recommended synthetic oil when it became available in suitable weight. When we built competition engine beginning in the late 70's, we specced mobil 1 synthetic ON initial fill. The idea that an engine must be broken in on dino oils is a dino concept. No current car makers do it and we didn't do it from around 1978 onward.

The lightest W is the best way to protect an engine on cold start. The heavier "W" the oil, the less protection there is at that crtitical time. Don't believe it? Do this simple test:

Change the oil, put in your 20W50, straight 30, 40 or whatever. Start the engine and hit the start button on your stopwatch/iPhone app. Punch it again when the oil pressure comes up. Drain the oil. Do the same with 0W whatever (0w40, 0w60, etc). ... That will tell you all you need to know. If you want, do the same with the same weights of dino/syn... The stopwatch won't lie...

 

Ive been using VR1 20/50 for as long as Ive owned my 328,,My car has well, lets just say, a fair amount of miles. It still runs well, last service, we looked at the cam shafts,,they were fine. Like the other posts say,there are many thoughts on this . I change mine every 2500 miles,,or 2 years .