Valvoline Synpower 5W-40

i use syn diesel oil in my '99 355f1
high zinc and phos. compared to gas oils

 

I have seen an FChatter here mention he uses the 5W40 and he states is more than adequate.

Don't take this as being the correct answer, I am just passing on what another FChatter stated who uses this oil.

 

I personally feel that any modern synthetic oil in the proper weight (5W40) will work equally well for a street car. I use Castrol Syntec 5W40.

 

Mike- I have been running it in my 575M, and it works great. No foaming like the Shell/QS/Pennzoil and comparison tests have shown it to be a really excellent oil. If you wanted Mobil 1, I would only use their European Blend/Formula (Porsche and Mercedes use it), or whatever they are calling it this week, but much prefer the Valvoline. Plus you can find it anywhere for a reasonable price.

Taz
Terry Phillips

 

Foaming is the biggest concern I've had when selecting a modern synthetic oil. I've seen Amsoil and Castrol both have issues with this.

I prefer Motul or Redline, depending on frequency of oil changes. A lot of "tuner" shops are stocking Motul so it isn't too difficult to get and Redline can be purchased at any Carquest.

I also wouldn't go to a 0w40 instead of the 5w40 because of the diesel application, the added ZDDP is useful.

 

Curious Terry, do you ever get the oil really hot (260+. Hard to do in a V12) and if so what kind of idle oil pressure do you see at those temps?

 

Mobil 1 10-40 regular version (not higher mileage) in SoCal for us 348'ers. Wal-Mart has 5 quart containers for $23 on sale.

 

Shell Rotella Syn. T6
5-40w
No more foaming

 

Surprisingly that was what FNA dealers used for a short time in 2002 (2003?) or so when they had a temporary shortage of Shell Ultra Helix 5w-40 synthetic. So they used the Shell Rotella synthetic 5w-40. I would suppose it must be "close enough" to specs for FNA to use it.

 

Ferrari is very flexible about specifications when it suits them.

But I suspect the oil is just fine.

 

I have 10W40 Red Line on my 348 and never looked to see if there is foam.
Any one knows ?

 

Doubtful with Redline, that is a good product. You would see it on the dipstick when you check the level. I have seen it when I used Shell Ultra Helix 5w-40.

Mobil 1 5w-40 now.

 

I've used Redline for a long time with success, I know Dave Helms prefers Redlien as well.

 

Brian- No, I do not get it that hot. Even driving the way I do though, which is street driving with occasional runs to the redline, the Shell foamed and the Valvoline did not. Even on 90+ degree days here, the oil temperature does not get that high. Cooling is too efficient, I guess. Water temp gets up there in a hurry, but not oil temperature.

Taz
Terry Phillips

 

I was just wondering what the idle oil pressure went to when very hot. It is a problem in the V8's but do not know anyone using the Valvoline in a V8.


Valvoline usually makes an exellent product so I bet it is a good oil.

 

The viscosity index of the Valvoline product is nearly as high (within a few degrees) to that of Shell Helix, so I suspect the engine oil pressures at higher temps is not going to be any different to that of most any other higher quality synt. Red Line's VI is a tad higher than any I have ever seen.

 

Oil pressure warning lights are quite common in 355 & 360 at hot idle running Shell.

My experience also suggests those viscosity index numbers dont always prove out in real world use not unlike claimed brake fluid boiling points.

 

So as a general rule with those V8s, are you suggesting a 50w synt be used for excessively hard running ie track use? I have heard 355s and 360s creep up near 300F during hard use which is really putting a beat-down on any 40w oil additive package.

Shell's Helix uses a group III hydrocracked slack-wax base stock which is pretty trick stuff. No one else makes a group III like this and I am still unsure why they call it a group III. Same stuff is used on their F1 oils. Also, same base stock is used in the Rotella T syn 5/40 available locally although I don't think I would recommend it for these applications. 308/328 it's been fine though.

 

Track use with the 355 & 360 is why Ferrari offered a 10-60 alternate. Depending on the temps seen I would use a 50 or 60 and if temps get that high dump it after the event.

And yes 300 or 320 is seen and is very close to max for the oils. Oil temps we used to see at Bonneville in the Rodac motor is what sold me on Redline and why I became such a believer.

 

I noticed the other day when I checked the oil level after my 30k that I had some white stuff in the top of the oil tank - almost looked like white grease, however, I suspect it is the foam you are mentioning. I used Mobil 0W40, which several had recommended. Is the foam an engine reliability issue? I'm not wild about the foam, however, after just plunking down the cash for 11 quarts of it I hate to change it out now...

 

sounds like condensation from not driving your car long enough. or poss head gasket leak. i would bet water vapor. the oil inside my valve covers on my race car did this all the time. looks milky grey/white.

don't panic unless you are losing coolant or you smell coolant.

 

No, the foam we are speaking of is actually in the oil, and you will see small bubbles in the oil on the stick....it actually makes it hard correctly read the level.

As posted above, the foamy froth you are seeing on the cap or filler neck (often looks like brownish foam on a latte) is often caused by condensation...short trips and cold weather often bring it out. Some cars are more suspetible than others. Never seen it on my 355 even in winter, but I am not one to drive short trips.