Valve Gasket Sealant The Final Word!

this is what you are looking for....
http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/Automotive/85249.pdf

no silicon worms to block your oil pickup

comes back apart without issue

seals very well if the surface is 'ok' and not warped

don't over-torque - allow solvent to dry before assembly

I still use a very small dab of silicone at the gasket junctions

Rgds,
Vince

 

Gaskets which contained asbestos!

Thats why they sealed so well, and,
thats why they have not been available, for decades!

 

Go to the nearest Honda motorcycle dealer and get you some HondaBond HT. This stuff fills gaps quite well yet disassembles easy and clean up is not a problem just use some ScotchBrite and a little contact cleaner.

 

+1!!!!

That is the BEST stuff I have used also!!

 

I use Hylomar on race car transmissions all the time because it seals well even without gaskets and cleans easily with MEK or Acetone.

You wouldn't believe how bad the sealing surfaces can get in a 50 year old Hewland that has been taken apart probably close to 2 or 3 hundred times to change gears and Hylomar still seals it.

Never used it on anything else though, but it should be good. I wouldn't mix it with silicone though as it requires a clean dry surface.

I apply it to both surfaces, let dry for a half hour or so, then assemble.

I only buy it in the brush top can, and thin with acetone as it will thicken in the can over time.

 

Rob:
I just finished mine using Hondabond. My FAA A&P son helped and really likes the stuff. We finger-applied a very thin coating on the gasket and the surface plus a little dab at the camshaft seals. Just follow the directions on the tube. An important thing to remember is that the thickness of the valve cover gasket determines the clamping force on the camshaft seals. Too thick a gasket and the seals will be loose - a potential source of leaks.

 

Another vote for Hondabond HT.

 

my gaskets had a bead of silicon on them from the factory. they were applied 'dry' so as to not interfere with the paper and silicon bead.

see my old pics here:
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=205755&highlight=gasket

the hylomar was used around the bolt holes (areas without the silicon bead) for a bit of additional help in areas which tend to be distorted (studs pulling up the surface of the head etc due to excessive torque) .

i tried very hard not to mix the silicon and hylomar.... likely a bad thing...

the blue colored hylomar was used on the 'outside' side of the o-rings with a small dab of black silicon at the corners

it looks like, and goes on like a gel toothpaste. after the solvent evaporates it is ready to assemble. on dissassembly it leaves a tacky, fiberous 'almost dry' goo. it pulls apart like a good wheel bearing grease, but with short fiberous, almost hair-like strings and tackier....

buy a tube and play with it a bit.... it is hard to describe.

i can't speak of a cover left on for years - - but i did pull a cover after a week without a problem (the engine had not been fired).

hondabond also has a wide acceptance on Fchat. likely good stuff as well.

i avoid silicon because of the worms. don't want to lose a cam bearing or block an oil pickup. i am unaware of how to use it without getting worms. every engine I've ever pulled apart that has used silicon included worms. if hylomar gets into the system, it will pump and get broken down before it does damage (in reasonable quantities).

i suspect 90% of a leak free seal is in the care of assembly... either product ought to work. i have read on fchat that fcar assembles these engines dry (but cannot personally verify).

good luck,
Vince

 

Hylomar is good for race cars and waterpumps and other things that need to come apart more frequently.

I stopped using it on cam covers years ago because it will eventually leak.

HondaBond HT is very good.

Permatex Ultra Grey seems similar to HondaBond HT.

Loctite 518 Anaerobic is very good with or without a gasket and does not harden outside the joined surfaces. This eliminates the likelihood of sealant blocking an important oil passage.

The most important part is surface preparation. Oil and old sealant (especially silicone) are the enemies of a good seal.

 

I've done three valve cover jobs in my 250 dry. Only one has leaked, and it leaked like a sieve, but the gasket was grey and very thin and hard, as opposed to green, thick and soft.

 

Gaskets should go on DRY with a little dab of Permatex Ultra Black RTV on the joints.

 

Hylomar....

Used it in a Norton 850 Commando Roadster I had... work wonders.

Been using it ever since.

Even with the naturally porous castings, never leaked a drop.

JD

 

Can't comment on the gaskets or sealers, but

A sharp exacto held sideways at 95% of the edge angle of the blade will cut the gasket without maring the alu.

 

Yet another vote for HondaBond.

 

HondoBond is holding up nicely on my GT4 valve covers and camseals.

 

I just replaced my cam seal and o-ring on my QV, replaced the dizzy end housing gasket, end cap gasket, and valve cover gasket with thin film of HondaBond on both side, dry soft and NOT on drop of leak.

 

My vote goes to Hylomar. I've used it on many cars on all kinds of gaskets, including on my 308 for the valve gaskets, oil and tranny sumps. It is great stuff, no problem with leaks, IMH experience. I have not tried HondaBond, but that sounds great too. Next project, I might give it a try.

 

I'm going to have to give HondaBond a try.

 

I have not used the Hondabond, however I use another permatex product called "right stuff".

It virtually eliminated fluid leak come backs in my shop.

I used it on my Mondial t during its last engine out service

 

I used Hylomar on the transmission case on my 328. It worked like a charm! It took a few trys to apply it correctly. Both surfaces need to be completely clean and oil free. I applied a small bead to both surfaces and then spread it out to cover the entire surface, like using rubber cement. I let the product sit for about 15 minutes, put the conver back and not a drop after many warm-up cool down cycles.

 

I guess I just have a whole different view of this than most. Yes, I hate the problems associated with removing glued down valve covers and cleaning up the residual mess. But the thing I hate even more is an oil dripping motor. Doesn't matter how hard I have to work to get parts separated, I always do (patient that way). No matter what mess is left, I always clean it up (anal that way). But having a motor leak is much more agonizing than either of these two jobs.

When I reassemble I have two choices, Dow 730 or Ford Diesel Oil Pan Silicone I think its Ford part number F5TZ-19G204-AB. Only comes in a short caulking gun tube. Whichever I use I just put a dab between my thumb and forefinger and do a light smear on the gasket then let it air dry just a bit then cinch it down.

Pain to take apart... sometimes.
Mess to clean up... usually.
Leak... F**K NO!!

Rick