Trailer load/unload WO tow vehicle attached?

those wheel chocks are nice! a friend has them on his ~40 foot gooseneck and the trailer might as well be cemented in.

to your question, I've put my 911 on the trailer without the tow vehicle attached and it worked, no major issues; I don't know how much, if any, the tongue jack moved. but I didn't like doing it, it seemed like an unnecessary risk to me.

 

it's a 20 foot enclosed (insulated) Pace, so it's fairly heavy for its size...that might help when loading without being attached.

 

nah, I just went for it (although I did have a set of race ramps under the trailer ramp, but that's to clear the splitter and not to protect/support the trailer)

 

At least you're doing putting some thought into it with chocks and stabilizers, but I would avoid it. maybe the larger door/ramp on enclosed trailers makes them more stable when loading though. I've tried it with open car trailers and its like jumping on a skateboard.

Also very easy for the trailer jack to collapse if the tongue pushes forward a bit. Its just a hollow tube after all.


Thanks for the wheel chock suggestion - just bought a pair!

Oh, and I'll leave this right here LOL.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3c4Z8MNmlA8]Two Trailer Loading Fails - YouTube[/ame]

 

superb

that was my big fear, the trailer jack collapsing or bending in on itself. although from that video maybe I've just added to my list of fears

 

I do it all the time. Make sure the Wheels are chocked front AND back on the trailer. I jack the front of my trailer up to get my car in. 1 5/8" ground clearance on the front of my car makes it impossible to load without un-hooking the tow vehicle.

If the Trailer tires are chocked properly then you should have no issues whatsoever. I have even had the winch stop and rock the trailer.

I have never had any problems.

Get BIG wheel chocks.

Ron

 

I've used to do this often - I found several keys to success (and safety)

1) I used massive rubber wheel chocks all around
2) I had installed rear stabilizer jacks (swing-down type). This basically puts the rear of the trailer on a stable platform
3) only loaded a proportionally lightweight car (eg. my 2800lb Porsche in a 24' Cargo Express)
4) use the winch - slowly

Stabilizer jacks are now required equipment for me with trailers

I have actually driven the car in, but hd to be careful about loading the weight and did it only as a test...

I saw a guy at VIR one night drive his new 997 Turbo into a 22 foot featherlite....trailer did a wheelie, started rolling until the rear lip smashed itself into the VIR paddock dirt.

 

I had an added concern about the low clearance of the F430. So have been using a setup that is two birds with one stone; stabilize trailer and lower rear of trailer. Sounds odd, but this is super stable for me with a Yukon and 26' car hauler;

1) Back rear truck tires up onto regular car ramps that you keep in the trailer.
2) Set the parking brake
3) Use some dunnage (wood) to allow your elevated hitch post to take some load off the truck and add stability to tongue
4) Yes, use wheel chocks
5) Am using 65" (I believe) Race Ramps. Super light, grippy and well made.
6) Winch it in, or just use that clutch gently

Piece of cake