TR knock-off wheels - direction to turn the nut?

Curious myself...

Plan to change tires next week...

 

to open: always turn to the front - from up to down

so left side: anticlockwise
right side: clockwise

so you are right

 

There is an arrow on the nut itself showing the direction to loosen it.

 

As Tom said there is an arrow on the bolt and that is how it is worded in the owners manual. After doing this several times you don't need to look at the arrows, just remember

Drivers side = lefty loosy righty tighty
Passenger side = reverse thread

Another suggestion, if you plan on doing this yourself buy the Hill Engineering socket, I bought mine from Ricambi

AND READ THIS THREAD! Getting the wheels off is simple, getting them to stay on well that can be an issue if you don't know what you are doing

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/323038-scary-single-nut-testarossa-4.html
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important is when you fasten the wheels that the wheels are still in the air. if the weight of the car is on the wheels they not fix right on the cone and after a while they will get loose, even you used the right torque

 

I always tell myself "Back - on the track, Forward with the tire change." Reminds me to "knock" them towards the back to tighten them and get a car back on the track, and to "knock" them forward to change the tires.

I've never forgotten since I came up with that little saying, so hopefully it helps someone else!

 

Why remember anything? Memories are faulty. The mark provided by the manufacturer cannot change, cannot be wrong and is about as unambiguous as it gets.

 

The first few times I removed the wheels I was confused about the arrow being the direction to loosen or tighten! I like what Romano pointed out that the bolt always loosens towards the front of the car. And you are right about Memories being faulty, I just found two easter eggs I hid for my kids

 

My experience is mostly with Borrani knock-offs and unmarked ones on BBLM's and other track cars. Not everyone knows what "smontare" means, so I've gone by my saying and never had an issue.

Whatever works, works!

 

People, if the wheel is off would anyone need instructions which way to turn to reinstall?

Lets let a little logic into the discussion shall we?

 

And anyone working on a BBLM better not need to be told. If they do not have an intimate understanding of the physics involved they really shouldn't be anywhere near the car.

 

Make sure all mating surfaces are clean and free of any dents, dings, debris, rust....etc. Then apply a thin film of copper anti-seize to the seating surfaces. Install the wheel - and try to hold the wheel in place and while tightening the center-bolt by hand. You want to be sure the wheel is seated before you torque up the center-bolt. I always used the factory spanner and lead-hammer...never had any issues.

 

I had a prof in university trying to explain an intimate detail about Cardiac Physiology, she got frustrated with the class that day! She was so smart I think she forgot that she too had to learn at some point in her life! You remind me of her!

I appreciate your contributions and I have learnt so much from reading the posts on this forum. I'm intelligent enough to figure out which way a bolt would tighten if it was not attached but I must be honest that the arrows on the bolt did cause me some confusion the first few times I removed the wheels on my car.

Once again, thanks for all you contribute!

 

hidden this year or last year?

 

That is just a liability suit waiting to happen. The wrench and hammer is intended for emergencies, not so purchase of a proper torque wrench can be avoided.

 

How about 225lbs standing on an 18 inch breaker bar?

 

Greasing the threads adds to the clamping load for a given torque. It's also been recommended to retighten after a short drive.

Personally, i'd invest in a bi-directional torque wrench just to be safe. I would also invest in a 10 ft beaker bar just to get the damn things off.

 

Plus one. I eventually bought a bi directional torque wrench for my early TR.

 

I think this thread is left handed!

 

You could always safety wire the nuts if they are that prone to coming loose. My understanding was always, the nuts if put on in the right orientation want to tighten under acceleration and moving forward. What are these so problematic. I never had any problem with my eared-knock-offs on my jag or BBi and just used a hammer.

 

Apples and oranges. TR does not use nuts. The Feds banned them. The Federally required redesign was responsible for the problems so Ferrari abandoned it altogether and went back to 5 bolt wheels.

They are not prone to problems as long as proper procedures are followed. Problem was then as it always is of convincing people that "the same old way" was not correct.

 

purchased this BI- directional torque wrench on Amazon. Not a cheap solution (there isn't one) but well made and breaks down from 48" assembled to fit nicely in the trunk of an '86 Testarossa.
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