Torque Wrench Questions

The flex head can't give proper readings unless it is at 90 degrees, I have one and its worthless as a torque wrench.

I use a click type for wheels because its easy, and if its a pound or so off its no big deal.

I wouldn't want to be bending over all day just to see the pointer on a beam type doing wheels, but they're fine for bench work

 

I personally use the Torque meter style wrenches. There are many different styles available The one with the follow up needle gives you a visual cue that you are near the setting you desire. Also the needle will give you an indication if you are dealing with damaged or dirty threads as the needle will swing wildly as the torque reading changes. If using a click type wrench on damaged threads it may click even though you have not truly tightened that fastener.

 

Extensions are fine to use with a torque wrench Universal joints, wobbles Etc can throw off the reading of the wrench as they can lengthen or shorten the length of the torque wrench.

you can even use a torque extension or crowsfoot on a torque wrench as long as they are 90 degree to the torque arm.

 

How do you guys go about torquing a union on a pipe? What kind of torque wrench do you use and where can I find one?

 

Use one of these 90 degrees to the torque arm of the torque wrench.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=hand&item_ID=2221&group_ID=269&store=&dir=catalog

 

Split beam torque wrenches are nice since you don't have to zero them between use, no spring - as you already know. And all the flex head torque wrenches I know of have a very limited range of motion so inaccuracy is not an issue. A ratchet head is also nice with little downside except for the occasional service of the mechanism.

One note on split beam torque wrenches is that they only work in one direction, most are made for right hand thread fasteners. So you will not be able to use it on left hand thread fasteners.

 

Thanks. Most intelligent reply(or maybe the only reply) I've had to this question in a month!

 

If 99% of usage is going to be for track wheels, you don't have to be accurate to a hundreth of a Newton-meter. Why not just pick up a decent, basic torque wrench from Sears? The Craftsman torque wrenches are reasonably accurate, pretty rugged, and more than adequate for torquing lug nuts.

 

A co-worker bought this el-cheapo click type for $20 and brought it into the calibration lab. What a hunk of junk! 10 was 34, 50 was 20, and 80 was - - - I can't remember I suggested he use it to stir paint.

Anyway, I like click type. Snap-on, Proto, Craftsman etc.

 

Many Precision Instruments split beam torque wrenches have a reversible handle/head which allows it to be used on both CW and CCW applications. - Tim
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Griot's garage has a very nice Digital 1/2" drive torque wrench for about $150.00. In comes with a case and full calibration sheet. It has multiple setting, e.g., peak hold with tone when torque is setting is reached. Additionally, you can send it back to them once a year for FREE calibration. I use it primarily to torque my wheels with a Hill Engineering socket to prevent damage to the finish on my lugs. I checked the accuracy against a Craftsman Reference Standard and a top-end Snap-On wrench - they were all within 1-2 ft/lbs of one another. Just my two-cents.

EDIT: The wrench also has a reversing lever for CW/CCW use.

 

It has a lifetime guarantee and you can send it in free for recalibration every year. The actual wrench is heavy, well-made and, as I previously stated, as accurate as the mega-buck standards. I promise you, you won't be disappointed if you order it.