Top 10 things to do with JB Weld

This is such a good setup I can't resist the temtation...

So, I'll admit, my mouth is probably a prime candidate!

 

Man, don't go there. Tastes like chicken.

Ba dump bump...

 

I fixed a sink spigot with it once, as a temporary repair just to get me through a few weeks until I could get a new spigot. I replaced the spigot 4 years later when it sprung another leak nowhere near the JB Weld repair!

Birdman

 

I fixed the valve cover on my Jeep with JB Weld. It was to repair the hole I put in it with a prybar.

 

Scroll to the bottom
http://www.textfiles.com/uploads/sawed-off.txt

 

tried to plug air leaks on a OEM ferrari 16 inch star wheel -- useless.

 

Okay, here's one that's worthy:

On my Alfa Spider, the throttle-linkage has one of those plastic elbow joints that screws onto a long threaded arm, under the plenum. The plastic joint stripped, and instead of buying a new one, I coated the threaded end of the arm, and stuck it back into the plastic piece and let it sit overnight.

That was about 4 or 5 years ago and it hasn't let go yet.

 

I'm also contemplating doing the same thing with the little A/C knob on my console, since it too is stripped and I can't turn the fan on.

That should be a good test, because it will get a good workout, because it's the little edges that provide the pressue to turn the knob. Unlike the Ferrari, that uses a hex-nut to hold the knob it place, which (also) is much better IMHO.

But then again, it's a Ferrari. Not an Alfa Romeo!

 

Used it to plug a hole in the AC condensor. It worked for a couple days till the new condensor arrived.

 

Wanted to use it to fix a hole in a piston. Contacted the company; they did not advise that use.

 

Patching butt crack.

 

Patched a pea-sized broken out area of an MGB head between the thermostat opening and the housing mounting stud. I used the quick setting kind as it cures harder. The repair involved replacing material which was originally threaded. I chased the threads in the head to make sure they were clean and used a new bolt with clean threads as a 'form'. I wraped the bolt with a round of Teflon pipe tape and threaded it into the hole with the tape extending well above the head's upper deck. Once the J-B Weld cured, the bolt unscrewed smoothly leaving threads all the way to the top. I then filed the J-B to the original thermostat opening shape, repainted the head and it worked great. An added benefit is that the repair was compressed by the gasket once the thermostat and housing were installed. No leaks. Good stuff. -rick

 

I used a tube and a half of the stuff a couple weeks ago to seal off the water jackets of a 4.0L head I swapped onto my 4.2L Jeep. Twelve (inline 6) half inch triangular holes on the head mating surface, which my block doesn't have being a 4.2L. Had to pack the head with water soluble packing peanuts.

 

I have to say, you guys have far more luck with JB weld than I ever did. Each and every time I used it, it promptly failed. The JB weld has ZERO adhesive quality. I have sanded/sandblasted/used acetone/alcohol/etc to prep surrounding metal, and it won't hold...

Care to enlighten me how you guys get it to stick to metal? Especially in area's that are prone to oil/fuel???

 

I've had luck with just roughing the surface up with sandpaper and then brake kleening it to make sure there's no oil. Mix the stuff 1 to 1 and let it set a couple days.

Thought of another one. I JB Welded a washer onto the high speed jet of the carb on my kart so I can adjust it while out on the track.

 

The area has to be super clean and dry. The biggest drawback to JB Weld is just what you've noticed: it doesn't stick too well. And if it's in contact with oil, gas or heat cycles, it will come loose.

I used it sucessfully to repair the metal coller on a distributor where the clamp goes. It lasted until the distributor itself went south from worn bushings.

I've also used it for kids toy repairs.

Ken

 

I've never had much luck with it either. Tried to repair a crack in a garage door panel and it just stuck to both sides and made a new crack inthe JB Weld. I'm not impressed at all.
BT

 

Hmmm..... That screename has SO MUCH to offer...

 

Notice, I'm using it on plastic.

And I've heard that it will work to mount a mirror to a windshield. But I don't have that much patience

 

10: Leaky door seals

9: 355 Header cracks

8: 308 gas filler neck

7: 400i levelers

6: Testarossa tranny bell housing

5: Testarossa tranny

4: Loose Mondial fuseblock clips

3: Oil leak at bung

2: F40 turbo fan blades

1: Broken cam belts

Ken

 

Actually I prefer a product called Devcon, they make an epoxy that is 90% steel and they make an epoxy that is 80% aluminum. Unbelievable adhesive proerties.

I have patched quite large holes in the sides of transmission cases with it.

Actually, I was contracted by one of the big three automakers to repair some defective trans cases, they expected weld and remachine. Because there was no heat from the epoxy there was no distortion and no need to re-machine. Afterwards they called me to their plant to instruct their machinists on this method of repair.

 

When I got my 308 I found that someone had put a crescent shaped layer of what I'm pretty sure is JB weld on the coolant tube that runs across the pulley end of the motor. Funny thing, the patch was just in front of the alternator pulley ;^)

Anyway, I've had the car for 6 years and it's still on there & presumably sealing a hole.

Chris, I've had great experience with Devcon's steel & Al filled epoxys. Just after the blizzard of '78 I came across an old Wheelhorse 5hp snow blower in the town dump. Figured at worse I'd be hauling it back if it wasn't repairable.

Anyway, when I pulled it apart, I almost took it back. I had obviously been run w/o oil. The connecting rod had seized on the crank & melted a deep gouge into it before the rod had broken. Something, probably a piece of the rod had destroyed the casting boss that served as a valve guide.

However, there was a another major storm forecast for the following week & I hate shoveling snow.

So I figured I'd see what I could do. Cleaned the block with lacquer thinner, drilled a half dozen or so holes into the area where the valve guide boss broke off, made a crude mold after masking tape, gave the valve a coat of grease & cast a new boss out of Devcon Al.

Then filled the gouge in the crank with Devcon steel & when it cured filed it level with the rest of the crank, polished it with emory & crocus cloth, picked up a new connecting rod from a local lawn tractor shop & put the whole thing back together.

Not only did it get me thru that storm, the darned thing was still running when I put it up at the top of the driveway with a 'free' sign on it in '03. I never would have believed that hasty repair would have held up for over 20 years!

 

I've found the bigger the blob, the better the job. pushing it into a crack doesn't work, putting on a big blob does. If appearance matters, I grind the snot out of the crack to get a decent amount of surface area for the glue to bond to. Then it works. I did a crack in the water jacket of a boat engine that went into the oil gally.....that was 20-25 years ago and it's still running as far as I know.