Thermo-time switch related problems

After reading the related threads, could the flooding from the thermo-time switch being bad cause a "rich" mixture condition that would cause the Lambda circuit to not compensate for? I have failed my California smog test and have been warned off about trying to adjust the mixture myself.

 

I think the suggestion to disconnect the cold start was right because it fires up immediately now but didn't know if the diagnosis works in my mind because I don't know the system that well yet.Is it the consensus the Lambda circuit wouldn't necessarily be able to compensate for the overly rich mixture? I'm sure it's not made to do that. Thermo switch is still two days out and I haven't checked fuel pump pressure bleed down yet. Probably a few other things it could be but I got to start somewhere. Would the thermo-time switch put out a different voltage I could check at the switch without shorting out the signal, possibly with a multimeter? Or anything else I could check to further narrow the problem?

 

I haven't done this yet. I had a few other things I was going to try first. Now don't laugh (or do), one local friend told me to put the octane booster in the tank, do a few hot laps and then take it in and it will test better. Sounded good so I will be doing this. Just rained here today so not taking my baby out. Californians, wet weather and driving don't seem to mix. Then throw a Ferrari in front of them and we are really in the weeds. So I haven't yet. After reading Steve Magnussons thread on the metering, I want to be sure I can get it back to at least this stage of operation. Will keep you updated on how it develops.

 

I'm going out to put it in the garage and try this right now. Anything else you think of, I'll be back in a 1/2 hour. BTW, I have left my cold start off too, and it starts beautifully; cold or warm.

 

I wonder if it wouldtest better with the cold start just left off? He would probably fail it for not having the wire connected but.....hmmmm.

 

1980 308 GTBi with twin catalytic converters.
Bought in California. Totally stock to date. Is this enough info or ...70,000 mi, dual distributor, been parked for three years. Don't know if they have an engine arrangement number on the car.

 

That's the number. Harder to see than in the drawing. Number is also on the emissions sticker on the left side of the engine compartment. Along with the diagram of the extra equipment and connections.

 

The circuit isn't hot either way. I tried it just turning on the key (no start), then tried while the car ran in warm up mode, then checked it after the car kicked off the warm-up mode. Got nothing at any point. I am imagining that verifies that the thermo-time switch is bad. The engine still raises the rpm but not to specification. It is only running about 1800 revs steady and SMELLS rich. Wondering if there was some compensation done before I had it. Hasn't had to smog for the last three years. Was in storage. Maybe that cold start switch isn't shutting off and I should pull that. Have to look and see what it's using to seal.

 

The thermo-time switch is on the way. It failed. No signal at any point.
But I'm beginning to believe my problems are running a little deeper than that. The car smells very rich at the pipe. I think I have to pull one of the injectors and do the suggestion to see if the cold start is leaking. This thing is bleeding from somewhere. Maybe they adjusted the A/F ratio incorrectly for some weird reason. After reading the threads here, I wouldn't know why someone would touch it without having diagnostic equipment but I'm going to start with the things I can do (which is actually quite a bit, I think).
A friend of mine always says, start with the simplest solution first. Any other ideas would be appreciated.

 

I think Enzo would be so disappointed at your impatience but I know how you feel. Real life imposes again.
Ok, no leakage at the cold start. Re-checked signal to make sure it still wasn't working. It wasn't. Going back to the PDF to research a little more.
On the pic, would you think that was from backfiring or just residual from the gas? Looks like gas residue but other opinions invited.
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Wasn't making any sense that if the cold-start injector was not getting signal, it would flood and get better when unplugged. So I removed the cold-start injector this time while connected/engine cold and had my wife start it. Beautiful spray pattern; worked great. Didn't start well without throttle. Couldn't wait 15 seconds. Gas is enriched a bunch with this injector. Disconnected; warmed-up; then reconnected. Every start got a good squirt even when warm but did not leak at all after initial restart squirt. Re-installed with new O-ring and re-sealed gasket. Did not start well with cold-start hooked up without throttle but works well when warm with cold-start disconnected. Is the initial squirt supposed to be there even after the engine is warm? Seems heavy enough to cause a hard start condition.

 

I will check it in the morning and let you know what's up. It looks very close to the cold start switch on the diagram and this would make sense because of the location of the warm up regulator and fuel distributor. Thanks, Steve and Mike

 

Success (sort of).Mixture adjustment with the A/F ratio did get the car to pass, but not without more than a little work. Still, with the cold start sensor working and the engine warm, the car won't start without a little coaxing from the throttle. New thermo-time switch arrived and will install it today when I find where it is.
Still trying to figure out the relationship between WUR, AAV, cold start, thermo-time switch and affect this could have on the rich mixture. Idle speed adjustment does not seem to have much effect now though the idle is staying at the correct RPM.
I hate to keep switching out the parts for diagnosis especially with the cost of the WUR. I have checked the ferrari.cdyn.com for fuel pressure testing but it is not very clear with the pics of the connections. I didn't think the systems between 328 and 308 were that different, BUT... any other guides would be appreciated.

 

Found it in the valley of "Noteezee2git2"