This degree of tweaking is really fantastic to read about. A fracking difference of 0.4mm means improved engine performance!?? Voicey rox!
The next time my cam belts are to be replaced, I will ask about getting the cams properly set. Sweet Info!!!!!! Thanks!!!!
Voicey deserves lots of credit for all his hard work and the remarkable fact that he takes the time to do an excellent write up with pics! That's why I subscribe to his site. In this case the procedure is written in detail in the workshop manual. Unfortunately in the current era without easy access to the WSM this write up will indeed help those about to embark on this procedure. From my personal experience (did it once = 4 cams) and take it for what it's worth I'm no pro but I do have three pearls. 1- I found the aft cam marks impossible to see even with a camera. my scribe marks were a hair thick. I used play dough to take an impression of the scribed mark and the reference mark on the cap. The cool thing was I could compare a before and after degreeing cast in play dough. In fact I saved them and still have all 8 ( 4 before and 4 after degreeing) 2- some may flinch but to move the cam, I chose to loosen the pulley bolts on the one cam I was adjusting, and I rotated the crankshaft slightly in the opposite direction I would have moved the cam. so cam stays put and pulley and remainder of engine move. Easier to move the crank (already have a wrench on it for degreeing procedure) than moving the cam. also moving crank moves cam 1/2 distance and has the degree wheel on it for graduation so I found this easier. 3- doing the procedure entirely myself, I used an iPhone & iPad app box pro. I set up an iPhone pointed camera at the dial gauge in the engine compartment. This sent the image to the iPad which was with me inside the cabin. This allowed clear, precise, and huge visualization of the dial gauge on the iPad. This has actually come in handy for other procedures I need real time visualization for. Flame suit on!
Wow, Raymondo !!! Bravo !! I've seen the procedure performed by my mechanic and his assistant... The assistant was in the car rotating the crank and watching the degree wheel... The mechanic was watching the dial gauges... Whenever he made adjustment to the cams, it was tough to get it right... A little too much, or too little... Trial and error.. Again and again... Doing it alone much be even tougher...
MD, thanks. It's more tenacity and being a little clever. There so are many here (even non pros) that can wrench circles around me. After reading fbb's cam degreeing thread, and other non ferrari cam degreeing literature the 360 procedure is actually a lot easier. It's laid out on the workshop manual pretty specifically. Just wanted to share those few things I learned along the way to hopefully make it easier for even one other diy'er. I'm surprised my point #2 hasn't caused a massive rebellion. Also if anyone is interested I had the opportunity to compare a couple of iPhone apps to a bonafide Ducati frequency meter for tensioning belts. I used my iPhone with a few buck app to tension my cam and accessory belts. Used the internal iPhone mic and worked great. Little learning curve but once perfected spot on. Just a big guitar string after all. Happy to share if anyone is interested.
"Just wanted to share those few things I learned along the way to hopefully make it easier for even one other diy'er. I'm surprised my point #2 hasn't caused a massive rebellion. Also if anyone is interested I had the opportunity to compare a couple of iPhone apps to a bonafide Ducati frequency meter for tensioning belts. I used my iPhone with a few buck app to tension my cam and accessory belts. Used the internal iPhone mic and worked great. Little learning curve but once perfected spot on. Just a big guitar string after all." Did my belts a couple of weeks ago while prepping for BBORR race(Mine was the only Ferrari in the 160 car race?). Had I had Voicey's plus your recent post, I would have adjusted the timing. Those two posts cleared up the questions I had about doing it alone. I use your #2 method for getting the belt on my 308 because I can not stretch the belt onto the 308 cam teeth like I was able to do on the 360. Fantastic posts by you and Voicey!
For me since I was replacing the tensioner bearings, I removed the bearing, put on the belt, then popped in the bearing, no sweat. Glad your belt swap went well. For anyone interested I replaced my left side aka bank 2, aka drivers side hydraulic tensioner. To fit it properly I had to customize the protruding bushing. My mounting hole was present but less deep than the bushing. Others have cut it off completely, I thought if I left it but fit it properly its purchase would be more stable than on a bolt alone.
Is this applicable to the F430 in any way? Given the chain drive difference. Edit, just did a bit more reading and the 430 continuously varies the intake and exhaust timing. So the answer to my question is no.
