Following our phone conversation... and NOW (!) you understand why I refuse to develop partial kits! This system is just that, a system, and cant/wont be broken up when it is done. You need everything in hand and ALL of the knowledge up front. My wish was to supply you with components for a couple of coolant sensors because they were quite literally "in your way" and it would have been a shame not to do them at this time. After that was done you then could do the remainder of the kit, if you ever choose to, at a time of your choosing but the difficult ones would already have been done "when you were there". ""I'll do the rest on a next project."" Doesn't work, never did, never will. The job at hand was a blown hose, that reasoning doesn't hold water when the entire project is reviewed. One must enter into projects of this kind with a completely open mind and deal with any and all issues at hand when they are identified. IF you had waited and done those connections at the coolant sensors at a later time when everything was back together..... what do you think the chances are you would have seen the "Sparky's, I can fix it better than Ferrari" resistor kit? Janitorial work is nothing short of a B!tch, but if you don't do it completely correct, you are just adding to the problem. It can be difficult enough to identify the true causes of a given problem. Lets just say that when thinking through a problem with a cold start system..... reversing some DS's brain storm of putting a pair of resistors in there... surely would not have been the first thing to cross my mind. Do it once, do it right and do it complete with both eye's fully open. I have done dozens upon dozens of these installs plus all of the input from all those doing Beta testing over the last 5 years........ I know full well what you are going to run into in the course of the job. I know what components you will require to combat these problems long before you know they ARE problems. For this reason alone I am developing a base kit and then options to that. When it is done all of these issues will be addressed and what is in the kit will be so for very sound reasons. It was because of Robbie's testing your very problems were already addressed, Spasso identified yet another area.... We have been here before and there is method to the madness. Yes I could develop partial kits as you suggested and it would be far more profitable in the end. THAT doesn't solve the problems, the very reason I am doing this, it creates them as you have found out. The statement of "the only way he can make something on it" is only one very small facet of the complete answer that was given and is used out of context. What were you doing with the O2 sensor wires?
Dear Ferraristi, I talked to Dave today and those green wires are the SENSOR wires...not the heater wires. Mine were mixed up and I've always been very careful to mark things up. I talked to Dave Helms today about the spades on the green wires. Mine CRUMBLED as I was pulling them out of the O2 females. The O2's were just fine and the rubber boots were soft and pliable. I know I know....but look how far in scope this project has already gone. Remember, my TR is a daily driver....so, I don't like it off the road too long. As per our phone conversation later today, yes, I now understand you supply the plugs for the O2 sensors...as you " have been there...done that". As I explained, when I got the rest of the terminals and boots, there were more....so, I thought that's what they were for. I didn't know you were sending spares. I understand what you're saying about the full kit, but that would be way too much to deal with including the top of the engine refurbish. I can really only handle "bits at a time" Again, as per our conversation today, I really understand the objective of the "kit" is to ELIMINATE the electrical problems and a piece here...a piece there doesn't do it. On the green spades, Dave does not make a connector as the molds are prohibitively expensive and the demand is just not there. I will use some gold plated high end audio spades with some boots. I'll post some pix as this might be an acceptable alternative for some. Oh, BTW, the O2 sensor wire boot fits the back of the water temp gauge sensor perfectly. I was surprised that the boot was completely missing with the spade exposed to weather. Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice !
Dear Ferraristi, Question: When putting the gaskets on the intake to the engine...what side goes down? When I removed the old gaskets, the writing side was "up" but the coolant elbow casting gasket writing was "down" What type of washer is used on the intake manifold nuts? Most of mine are a thick flat washer while some are a thinner washer with a "warp" Thanks Shamile Freeze....Miami Vice !
Shamile -- Don't just go by the colors on the O2 sensor connectors until you verify the physical situation (you never know if someone wrongly put the O2 sensors in the wrong cat). The single signal wire for the O2 sensor mounted in the 7/12 cat should be connected to the forewardmost injection ECU pin 8, and, likewise, the single signal wire for the O2 sensor mounted in the 1/6 cat should be connected to the rearwardmost injection ECU pin 8: Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, I will double verify and post results... Thanks again Steve ! Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice !
Great stuff Shamile! I'm looking on with much interest, so anything you can document with descriptions & pics are greatly appreciated. It's on my radar as the next thing to try when time permits.
Shamile, not sure if the gaskets have a correct up side. The washer that are thicker are under the nuts for the intakes to the engine and the wave washers are under the allen head bolts that join the upper and lower intake sections together. Keep up the great work looks good..
The conversation was very informative for me. Thank you for the audio sources, I believe they very well may be a source for some of the odd, fill in the blank components I have been looking for. It is the final, minute details and components that have proven so time consuming to identify and locate... these might help with that. Considering where you were when you started and where you are now... quite an accomplishment to say the least. I'm not sure I would suggest the valve cleaning technique as std. There are potential issues with that if all the carbon isn't removed and ends up on a seat or valve face. That said... what the heck, worth a try. With all of the corrections you have made to date, you should be well ahead of the curve now. Attention to the smallest details is what makes the difference... you are surely there!
Dear Ferraristi, When all else fails.....call Dr. Ferrari (Jim McGee of Pocono Sports Car ) for some helpful answers. OK, on the intake gaskets, Jim said they really don't have an upside but to use what fits better with no gasket material interrupting the airflow to the valves. I found that they really only go one way after all. On the "double gasket", the center stud hole is off if it's placed one way and perfect the other....writing side up. On the coolant elbow gasket, again Jim say to follow what fits better. Well, guess what....writing side down....just like it was....go figure.. On the washers on the intake to the block...according to Jim, they should ALL be wave washers. He explained that they are a lock washer for aluminum. If you used a typical "split washer" for locking purposes, it would dig into the aluminum....that's the reason for the wave washer. The upper Allen bolts on the intake use the same wave washers as well. Jim told me you can actually buy these washers at a good hardware store....yeah right....oh wow...he was right! Ok....getting on to the intakes! Thank you for the kind words. This is why I'm taking so many photos...no no...not just the chicks.... but to really help someone that doesn't know what to look for. Just like if someone took this many photos of an engine out. I may still not be able to do it...but it really would help me understand the procedure. HI Dave, I'm glad I could be of some small help....
Shamile if my car is as original, I think it is, then you can see by this shot that the thick 8mm washers go under the intake to engine and the wave washers go under the allen heads,that is the way I took them off and how they went back on. Also was how a 600mile car I saw had it. So if you want it to be original.... Image Unavailable, Please Login
earlier fchat discussion concluded that wd40 is not good for this application - apparently it has a wax/ paraffin in it. Others have suggest marvel mystery oil.... maybe 2 stroke oil intended to mix with fuel... rgds, Vincenzo
Dear Ferraristi, Thanks for rubbing it in Testamon....back to the garage...more scrubbing !!! Hey Ashley...get back here.... Thanks for the info and the amazing engine photos! Sooo...what to do about the washers.....should I go OEM or use waves? Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice !
Best to go with the oem, The upper plenum washers are the standard wave washer but the intake runner to cylinder head washer may be diffrent. don`t exactly remember thickness but I do know it is a type of wave/locking cone washer so probably best to get the oem one. can`t see them costing too much. Regards, Jim
Shamile, You have made a thread about a car I do not own and a job I will not do interesting, Thanks for the fun!
Nice cleaning it. An exaggerated opinion, you can look yourself in that cover because of very shining of it. LOL
Dear Ferraristi, Thank you for the kind words ! Haha....can't go wrong with my favorite cleaning tool....my toothbrush! Oh...noooo...... I have a long way to go and many pix to post. I've just been very busy at work lately and haven't had the time to post or work on the car. This thread won't be done till the car backs out of the garage and the panties get saved in the glovebox... ...just to keep the thread interesting.... Brittany (23) Kristen (22) Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, No No Brittany(23) this isn't the headlight thread...but thank you for offering me yours... I'm still doing a bunch of cleaning but I thought I would jump to the fuel injection system as I'm having a few problems here. Dave sent me some seals that fit under some side modules. To get to them was impossible by any standard torx tool. I bought a torx bit for a drill, ground it down and used a wrench to get in-between the fuel distributors. Shamile Freeze....Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, ...trying to get in there... Shamile Freeze....Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, Once you get the module off, Dave suggested I use compressed air to blow backwards from the fuel flow. There's a little permanent filter there so that will clean it out. As Dave says...crazy damn place for a filter... I cleaned everything out and got the new seals from the bag and....umm...ahh....opps, wrong seals sent. Proper seals on the way, this area is halted for now. next.... Shamile Freeze....Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, Bawhahaha.....just for you Phil... ..now, where are some pix of Ashleigh.. Britney(23) Kristen(22) Tiffany(21) Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login