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Testarossa Top Of Engine Refurbish

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by Shamile, Nov 9, 2010.

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  1. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #301 Shamile, Mar 12, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017

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  2. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #302 Shamile, Mar 12, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    The breather pipe is in! Just don't ask how long it took....especially if you have to remove the intake you JUST put on.... :D


    Ooooh....OEM YELLOW NYLOCKS....no one can see them but I know they're there.

    The cold start injector housing does not come with any gasket. After talking to Jim McGee of Pocono Sportscar, he suggested I use loctite 518. This is the stuff that seals when there is no air....after being exposed to air....yes really!

    ....just use a very small amount....



    Shamile

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  3. fastradio

    fastradio F1 Rookie
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    #303 fastradio, Mar 12, 2011
    147720-Cold start valve gasket, same as used on every 308QV and 328.

    Best,
    David
     
  4. Philwozza

    Philwozza Formula 3

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    #304 Philwozza, Mar 12, 2011
    I see what you mean David but, it is not a standard part on the Testarossa.

    I think I may get myself a couple next time I take my injectors off though :)

    P
     
  5. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #305 Shamile, Mar 12, 2011
    Dear Ferraristi,


    Oh sure....now you tell me... :D


    Shamile

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  6. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #306 Shamile, Mar 12, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  7. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #307 Shamile, Mar 12, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    Here's the way the aux air hose was originally routed...and I did it the same way. But, I noticed it put too much pressure on the fuel line....no matter how I tried to space or curve it out. Then I noticed the "loop" in the fuel line and....hmm....ahh !

    Here's the way the aux air hose SHOULD be routed....assasins !

    Some vacuum lines here.....some vacuum lines there....

    ...just make sure the hose clamp slots all line up... :D


    Shamile

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  8. Steve Magnusson

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    #308 Steve Magnusson, Mar 12, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I don't think that your original condition was how it was "originally" routed by Ferrari -- your "new" routing is how it's always been routed on my TR, and here's another (random) sample shot of someone's F113B engine that has the same routing:
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  9. Philwozza

    Philwozza Formula 3

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    #309 Philwozza, Mar 13, 2011
    +1. Thats the same as my Euro model Steve.

    When I rebuilt the engine last year I routed that pipe as per Shamiles first photo and found that it would not connect without some "help". After referring to my strip down photos I realised my mistake and re-routed. I did the same with a fuel return hose and finished up taking the LHS tank out to repair it :(

    P
     

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  10. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #310 Shamile, Mar 13, 2011
    Dear Ferraristi,

    Hi Steve,

    I'm sure it was routed the proper way from the factory. But after a couple of majors from a large South Florida independent and seeing all the sloppy details....I use the word Assassin! :D


    Shamile

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  11. Philwozza

    Philwozza Formula 3

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    #311 Philwozza, Mar 13, 2011
    Shamile, what is the black right angled pipe at the top of the second photo for?
    My car does not have that???

    P
     
  12. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #312 Shamile, Mar 13, 2011
    Dear Ferraristi,


    That black pipe connects the fuel vapor emissions lines to the charcoal canisters in the Cly 1/6 side rear quarter panel...just behind the wheel well. Perhaps the Euro model doesn't have this vapor capture system.


    Shamile

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  13. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #313 Shamile, Apr 2, 2011
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  14. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #314 Shamile, Apr 2, 2011
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  15. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #315 Shamile, Apr 2, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    Attaching the fuel lines.

    Bolting the distributor head down.

    Having fun putting the fuel regulator back...

    Bit by bit....attach everything up.

    When you bolt the regulator back, it has a support that is bolted directly on the intake stud. It also has a hard fuel line that attaches. I found that it was better to attach the support and the hard line at the same time to make sure one wasn't putting stress on the other. I had to slightly angle the hard line so when it was all bolted tight , they weren't pulling on each other.


    Shamile

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  16. Shamile

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    #316 Shamile, Apr 2, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    Torque down to spec the intake nut ( support for the fuel regulator)

    I found it the correct order was to place the heavy washer on the aluminum intake, then the support, then the wave washer.

    Tighten down the fuel line.

    Attach the fuel return line.

    Clamp down that really really expensive rubber elbow. Don't forget to align all the clamp screw slots! :D


    Shamile

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  17. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #317 Shamile, Apr 2, 2011
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  18. Philwozza

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    #318 Philwozza, Apr 2, 2011
    I've noticed a few specks of dust there Shamile :D

    Hope you get to go out and drive the rascal soon......
    Keep up with the photos Shamile, there is some really good information there that will help others do refurbs.

    P
     
  19. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #319 Shamile, Apr 2, 2011
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  20. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #320 Shamile, Apr 2, 2011
    Dear Ferraristi,

    Thanks Phil :)


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  21. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #321 Shamile, Apr 2, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    All upper intake bolts covered with anti-seize and ready to go back in.


    I place the upper intake on the throttle body rubber coupler seal first and then push back and forth until it's very close to the upper intake. Use "Silglide" on the upper intake throttle body attachment....it will slide in easily.

    When putting in the upper intake gaskets, be very careful of the ring spacers. They can easily fall out and run down the intake....which OF course be the one with the open valve..and into the combustion chamber it goes.

    Tighten down the intake evenly across all the bolts. Tighten until it "bottoms" on the steel ring spacer.

    Getting the cold start injector housing ready with some Loctite 518 Don't forget to super clean the surface and begin with the 518 primer.


    Shamile

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  22. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #322 Shamile, Apr 2, 2011
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  23. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #323 Shamile, Apr 2, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    OK...which one is which?? Why, just ask Steve Magnuson of course....and follow his instructions.

    After verifying which sensor wire was which with a multimeter, I labeled them once and for all so they'll never get mixed up again.

    Since the original plastic plugs just crumbled in my hands, I tried to find a suitable waterproof jacket. Since I really couldn't find anything that would also look nice, I decided to use waterproof heat shrink. The interior is coated so when you heat and shrink it down, it seals the wire inside.


    Shamile

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  24. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #324 Shamile, Apr 2, 2011
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  25. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #325 Shamile, Apr 2, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    Before we button things back up, l wanted to do a final set on the accelerator cable.

    Thanks to Jim McGee of Pocono Sportscar for the method used.

    To set the closed position, use the small adjuster on the accelerator pedal / cable side. Position where it's taught with about 1/8" slack on the cable. You don't want it too tight as it will pull the linkage off the stops.

    To adjust Wide Open Throttle (WOT) have someone push the accelerator cable all the way down till the cable is taught. Under the pedal itself, is a adjustable stop. I backed up the stop just to where the cable is taught but not too tight.

    I had a friend push the accelerator pedal all the way down so I could hear it hit the linkage stops and still bottom out on the accelerator pedal stop. All the while with about 1/8" slack in the cable. If it's too tight, you'll put too much pressure on the cable and linkage. Too slack...you won't get WOT. All in all, this took some time to get it just right. Thanks to my neighbor Kylee for her help and patience.

    OK...this piece of crap plastic is NOT going back. Look for a new thread on fabricating a duplicate out of machine grade aluminum.


    Shamile

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