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Testarossa Top Of Engine Refurbish

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by Shamile, Nov 9, 2010.

  1. ztarum

    ztarum Formula 3

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    With regard to the fuel line clips, another option is to buy an OEM 3 place or 4 place clip and just cut it to size. That's what I did when I broke one of my 2 place clips. You can see the clip has been modified if you are holding a proper 2 place clip in your hand right beside it, but when it is installed (trimmed side down and/or opposite the line of sight) it is nearly impossible to spot.
     
  2. Shamile

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    #277 Shamile, Feb 27, 2011
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  3. AceMaster

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    Great job Shamile...I didn't think you had time for this, if you know what I mean :D
     
  4. Shamile

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    #279 Shamile, Feb 27, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    Ahh....that's what we're looking for....

    The cable end attaches to the pedal by a pin with a snap-on clip. Push down the clip and pull the pin out.

    Use a couple of wrenches to remove the bracket that attaches to the cable. Since we are going to use a new cable, don't bother trying to mark up the position on the threads. We'll have to do a full adjustment afterward.



    Shamile

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  5. Shamile

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    #280 Shamile, Feb 27, 2011
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  6. Shamile

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    #281 Shamile, Feb 27, 2011
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    Dear Ferraristi,

    Up on the jack stands....don't crack your rear window now....

    Remove the center panel under the fuel pumps. You will see the cable coming through between the fuel tanks....almost above the shift shaft.

    Pull out and out the back just over the main cross beam.

    OK...what the ???! So....this is why my accelerator cable is kinked...frayed and grippy..

    The original $213.00 cable guide has been twisted, bent and put on in the wrong place. For the amount we pay for majors....I hate stupid crap like this !!! This was NOT from my F pimp ( Central Florida Ferrari) but from an independent in South Florida that did two majors and no more... :mad: I still keep finding slap dash lack of attention to detail...


    Shamile

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  7. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran
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    #282 Shamile, Feb 27, 2011
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  8. AHudson

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    Shamwow, I don't know how to break this to you: I saw some dirt under your car!

    Car is gonna look, drive, and behave so much better when you're done. You could go into the independent TR repair business now.
     
  9. Shamile

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    #284 Shamile, Feb 27, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    Hahaha....I like my girls a little dirty/slutty....;)

    ....daily driver remember :)


    I have much to learn but with this board's help I'll get there. I almost feel I could tackle an engine out! ....well, not right yet...:D

    Oh....Brooke (24)


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  10. Shamile

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    #285 Shamile, Feb 27, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    Here's the way the cable guide should look...

    All bolted back in position with a new YELLOW NYLOCK Oooooh! No one will see it...but I know it...yeah baby!

    Push the cable back through to the pedal box. If you forget where the cable runs through to the pedal area from the engine...look for the "rub" mark on the cross beam.... I umm never had to do that...no really... :D

    While you push one half of the cable through to the pedal box...push the other half up the side of the engine through the cable guide and over....between the Alt and Alt bracket. Do it half and half. It's much easier than trying to start on one side only.


    Shamile

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  11. Shamile

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    #286 Shamile, Feb 27, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    OK...the fun part. Once you pull the cable up and through, pull the internal wire out to it's max. Take that and thread between the fuel distributor casting...through the guide hole. The guide hole has an indent to receive the end cap of the grey sheath of the cable.

    Instead of trying to grab the cable in vain...push through from the guide hole side and it's long enough to come close to the throttle body linkage. From there you can easily grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers and pull through. Note....it took much longer to do this than write this.... :D


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  12. Shamile

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    #287 Shamile, Feb 27, 2011
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  13. Shamile

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    #288 Shamile, Feb 27, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    After turning down the cap screw to full and tight, I back off to the next pin hole and slide the cotter pin through.


    Thread through the other half of the cable to the pedal box. Pull it through the tunnel and connect back up to the pedal guide. Once you have the cable connected to the pedal guide, adjust for slack in the sheeth....not the internal cable.
    Once you have the slack adjusted, make sure the cable runs to the pedal box without sitting on top of the shift shaft or binding up anywhere. I found by how I routed the cable just before the 90 degree bend to the "car" side....it would take up the slack and would sit without any interference or tie-wrap needed.


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  14. Shamile

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    #289 Shamile, Feb 27, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    Now that we have the sheath adjusted, put some antiseize on the cable and attach the "fork"...for a lack of a better word. Re attach the pin clasp at the pedal and now we're ready for adjustment.

    Once you have everything connected up, we want two adjustments. One at rest and one at Wide Open Throttle (WOT)



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  15. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Rookie
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    Shamile,
    You could do an engine out major, If you get frustrated just take a break and invite one of your beautiful girls over and you will forget all about your TR problems.


    Ago
     
  16. yelcab

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    That "fork" I believe is called a "clevis."
     
  17. Shamile

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    #292 Shamile, Mar 12, 2011
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  18. Shamile

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    #293 Shamile, Mar 12, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    While I'm waiting for the upper intake bolts, I thought I would get onto the fuel breather line...you know....between the engine and the firewall.....where on one has gone before...:D


    The breather hose is impossible to find. I got this hose from Dave Helms. It's not his "lifetime" hose but a general 5-8 yr replacement hose.


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  19. Shamile

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    #294 Shamile, Mar 12, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    Cut the old hose off with an exacto art knife with a NEW blade. Go very slowly and do multiple light cuts. Do NOT score the aluminum nipple. After I removed the old hose, I cleaned up the surface with scotchbrite. Before I slipped the new hose on, I applied a coating of Silglide from NAPA. This stuff will make your life easier. Big thanks goes to Rifledriver on that tip.


    The last pix shows the hose going over the cool air hose for the Alt. This is not the correct position. I was just laying it out here for access. The breather line is the one underneath and barely seen. It slips behind the oil tank and runs between the two coolant pipes on the cyl 7/12 side.



    Shamile

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  20. Shamile

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    #295 Shamile, Mar 12, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    Alright ! The bolts came in and we can move forward on the intake on the 7/12 side.

    Before you set the intake on the throttle body rubber seal, apply some Silglide so the intake slides in easily.

    I align the upper intake and lower intake as close as possible and then slip the intake seal in-between. Make absolutely sure the gasket spacers are tight. One wrong move and down an intake with an open valve it will go and we're screwed....in the bad kinda way.. :D



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  21. Testarossa1

    Testarossa1 Karting

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    Looking good Shamile-this thread is very inspiring buddy :)

    Tr boy
     
  22. Shamile

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    #297 Shamile, Mar 12, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    Before you attach the intakes together, apply some anti-seize. I keep mentioning this as it seems to be forgotten on everyone that ever did a major service on my TR. When I removed the intake, I had a very stubborn bolt that would not come off. I had to destroy the bolt just to remove it. This situation could have been completely avoided with just a little anti-seize.

    Tighten up the intake. Here I didn't use a torque spec as you tighten until the intakes "bottom out" on the thick metal spacers. Tighten each bolt a little at a time to insure clamping pressure.

    Thank goodness for TOOLS ! Tightening up clamp on the throttle body is made very simple with the use of a long ratchet attachment.

    After I put the intake back, time to put the breather pipe back. Oh....wait....ummm...it won't fit. Arrgh!!! You have to put the breather pipe back FIRST then the intake... :eek:

    Ok...remove the intake, put the breather pipe back then put back the upper intake.

    I could have easily not posted this mistake on my part but the whole point of this thread is to learn....well, I learned something... :D


    Shamile

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  23. AHudson

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    I agree. It really is kind of incredible. Plus, Shamille has a job AND a social life AND refurbs the top of his engine.

    Shamwow, the full Gold Connector Kit should be next for you. (Or did you already do it? I thought just partially.)
     
  24. Shamile

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    Dear Ferraristi,

    Thanks Clive ! :)


    Shamile

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  25. Shamile

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    #300 Shamile, Mar 12, 2011
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2011
    Dear Ferraristi,

    Thanks AHudson. :)

    I guess, I'm just an all rounded kinda guy. :D

    Fast cars....Fast women....can it really get better than that? :D :D


    I did get half way through the gold connector kit. If I kept peeling the onion back, I would never get the car on the road. You can really go "all the way" to painting the frame....cause "while I'm in there" I just say in my best Arnold Schwarzenegger voice..." I'll be back" :D


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