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Testarossa timing belts (Major) on a QuickJack ?

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by teveo, Feb 20, 2020.

  1. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,737
    The restaurant supply bussing bins work well to catch oil. Lots of capacity. Good for holding misc ‘stuff’ around the garage as well.
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  2. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
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    romano schwabel
    take off one of the brake bleeding screw covers/rubber and put this on the open brake line. so there will not drop anymore brake fluid.
    and not push the brake pedal. inside the cylinder over the time is a lot of debris and when you now push the pedal the piston will get more into the cylinder than usual and may be the gaskets/rubber at the piston will get damaged
     
  3. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
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    Yes thanks, have to be careful with that, the fluid was very clean though.

    With 10 year+ old fluid I will change all the brake and clutch fluid. I have the vacuum bleeder from mityvac, it is very good to drain a system. Have used it on many cars but sometimes it will need a friend on the brake pedal and a final "push and close" bleed to get firm brakes.

    Changing brakefluid is easy to "forget", it is a *mess* and I used to avoid it but with the mityvac its not messy and nice seeing that dirty fluid being sucked out and replaced with fresh fluid.

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    I did have a problem with the temperature or temperature sender on the car last time I used it, it indicate only 60-ish celsius on warm engine. While the engine is out I will verify the termostat is working as expected and also the temperature sender in block, wherever it is. I think there is a sender in the cross reference list as well as the termostat itself.

    My parts list is growing but I will be modest.
     
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  4. APA#1

    APA#1 Formula 3
    Rossa Subscribed

    Nov 5, 2003
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    #79 APA#1, Mar 2, 2020
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2020
    Having done this before, strap the front tires to the lift. Been a while.

    You might want to get a crt for the subframe to drop it on, pretty handy
     

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  5. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

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    Nice photos! Yes I will strap the front wheels and bolt down the 4 post lift. It's mobile and i like it that way but it was not made for dropping engines like this so it will be bolted down now.

    I will take dimensions for a better engine dolly/crate before dropping the engine ... next time it should be a steel frame with wheels, bells and whistles. :)
     
  6. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,737
    Mityvac bleeders suck... literally.

    They pull air past the threads and into your bleeder hose. You’ll be chasing phantom air bubbles the entire time.

    Try a pressure bleeder - they work very well. This one fits the Testarossa.... the baster and dot4 shown at the bottom are good add-ons.




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  7. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

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  8. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,737
    Looking good!
     
  9. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
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    Thanks!

    While it is still hot I will summarise my personal experience compared to the WSM.

    PAGE 1

    Apart from using a 4 post I followed the rest of the instructions, this all went rather fine.

    Observations, have a sharp knife at hand, you may (will) have to cut hoses, some are "welded" onto their nipples or pipes, suppose heat cycles and age in general. Cutting hoses will save you time and you most likely want to change the std ones did not find much formed hoses mostly regular straight hose cut to length.

    I cut the hose to oil breather ("dry") and both fuel return hoses ("stuck"), maybe more I will have to check when I return for cleanup garage today.

    Maybe it was mine but at as soon as you have the airbox house off use WD40 or something like that and spray down front and a drop back where the throttle cable sit in its bracket between the fuel distributors. The aluminum housing and the cables steel sleeve are not best of friends and it took effort to remove throttle cable. Solution was WD40 and carefully tapping it out. It now threaded just pushed into its hole in the bracket.

    The two steps above, cutting hoses and "prep" the throttle cable would have saved me lots of time.
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  10. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

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    Next diagram, I already had the exhaust off it need a weld fixed but sure this must be the way.
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    ".... remove the plates from welded studs" is the cut sentence.
     
  11. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
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    This location is a PIA, dry hoses and challenging ergonomics, better have a sharp knife or butchers scissors. Be careful not cutting cables at fuel distributors, a set of cables run very close.

    I cut the hose to thermostat body as well, it was hard but I could likely have left it to "fall of" when I started moving the engine.

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  12. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

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    And at last...

    The water hoses, explanation does not really get to me but as I said I cut the upper one and took off the lower one, nothing fancy.

    Gear rod, yes it is out and on my table, its "hole" in the chassi give enough clearance but barely.

    The rest was straightforward, I put grease on the protruding shock threads (3 pr shock) and loosened the last one (1 pr shock) a few threads so that it could wiggle but it all came out very nice no binding.

    Also, 4 wheel dolly/trolley is the solution, my platform was just so that I could get started last weekend. I am going to buy 2x4 lumber, angled irons and HD wheels this week and make one. You want that possibility to fine adjust this big lump, it will be much more obvious on mating the engine to chassi but I still had to wiggle for unbolting and this big platform was not optimal. It will be become a work desk!

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    I will go through my photos and take a few more when I head up to clean and arrange my garage after work.
     
  13. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

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    My spellchecker has it own life.
    The throttle cable is not threaded it should read, not "now threaded", the post was too old to edit but I wanted to make that clear as it was a slight PIA.
     
  14. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

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    you will replace the rubber waterhoses with silicone hoses?
     
  15. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
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    Check out Scuderia Rampante for hoses. Good stuff. It is a PIA trying to find OEM fit and finish hose.
     
  16. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

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    #91 teveo, Mar 4, 2020
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2020
    Yes, I would prefer to use a more flexible hose and silicon would be great. I was planning to check what dims and lengths I needed yesterday but ended up cleaning out the garage.

    Am gonna take my time, cooling hoses, fuel lines, suspension bushings and so on, noticed a leak around the seal from shifter axle that I will have to address as well.

    I also moved the engine/platform onto a better frame/crate. The Testarossa rear engine/frame sit perfect on top of a 80x100 cm 2x4 frame mounted on a std Euro Pallet, the Euro pallet is 80m cm width. The cars rear frame is around 5 cm so this was optimal.

    My next priority is to make a dolly for the rear end of the car, have to look at options. Maybe I can get by using the QuickJack for my other cars but come May I need to service my Jag and one of the Porsches and I prefer doing that on the 4 post lift, hate lifting a classic on 2 post.

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  17. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

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    Perhaps I forgot it in "the heat" but would like to thank everyone that has contributed with advice and personal experience. It's very comforting to have such knowledge and support.

    Next task is to have made a set of casters like those Rifledriver show in a photo on the first page of the thread so that the big Ferrari will liberate the lift.

    First of all it is time to shop for parts.
     
  18. APA#1

    APA#1 Formula 3
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    Nov 5, 2003
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    Look at my pics, I just used two of those 4 wheel dollys under the rear where the subframe mounts are. Pushed it around with ease. I think they cost about $30 Us each


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  19. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

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    Had some spare time and took off the timing covers today, everything fine, the car only has some 300 miles since last time engine was out and. The invoice from that major show new tensioners and bearings.

    I think I can reuse tensioners and bearings. IMO the belts were a little slack but I will have to read up before setting the new ones. Knowledgable people say that belts should be able to twist 90 degrees on the longest stretch.

    There is big white mark on pulley, it matches a mark on the flywheel (inspection cover) and I suppose we have TDC there. Will use the method I'v learnt to use on Ducati, "count and mark" to replicate the current position.

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    I will order belts tomorrow and try to make an inventory of what I need in yellow zink fasteners.
     
  20. barryr

    barryr Karting
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    Oct 16, 2010
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    Hmm. Maybe false economy. Spend the extra 100$ or so and replace the bearings. Get the ones from Hill Engineering. no miles but the grease and seals do dry out.
    Just my .02
    Barry
     
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  21. tbakowsky

    tbakowsky F1 World Champ
    Professional Ferrari Technician Consultant

    Sep 18, 2002
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    You have the engine out on the floor. Pull the valve covers and check valve clearance. Varify your cam timing to be sure everything is with in spec, replace the bearings, belts, cam seals, o-rings, plugs, etc. On this car.."lock and swap" or the "count the teeth method" really makes no sense.
     
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  22. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
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    Thanks, I will verify cam timing but have 300 miles on $10K bills from 2013, car ran smooth before engine out and its been stored well under very good conditions. No direct sun, no heat, no moist.
    Sure will check the bearings when belts are off, did see a little sweating on the them so I will most likely order them.
     
  23. curtisc63

    curtisc63 Formula 3
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    Dec 13, 2005
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    I haven't subscribed to a TR thread in a very long time. Found this one last night and happily subscribed. This is the kind of content I love - no matter how many times you see it, you still learn or remember some tidbit that will help going forward.

    Nice work @teveo! keep the pics and commentary coming!
     
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  24. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
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    The Hill Engineering bearings looks the business, I think I'll stretch to a set of those. Am not going to cut corners and anything that is easily checked will be checked, advice very welcome.

    The list is not that long:
    Timing belts (w bearings then ;) )
    Quality cooling hoses, maybe silicon.
    New fuel lines, braided if possible and advantageous
    All Yellow zinc fasteners
    New plugs but will check them first
    New temperature sensor(s), thermostats looked fine but I will cook them to check opening temp.
    Shift axle seal
    Oil and filters
     
  25. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,737
    If I may, in the strongest terms possible,
    recommend that you pull the valve covers, replace the seals and gaskets, check the valve clearance and most importantly, check and adjust your cam timing.

    Gaskets, seals and a few shims are cheap. No excuse.
     

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