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Testarossa timing belts (Major) on a QuickJack ?

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by teveo, Feb 20, 2020.

  1. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
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    Thanks for very good input, seem to be a lot of ways to do this. The crane with overhead beam is a good one, I still dont feel confident lifting out the engine from above and I'd rather drop the engine down, it can be reused on air-cooled Porsche even if those engines are rather easy to drop down.

    Sorry for the cruel photoshop hack. :)
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  2. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran
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    exactly so it works :)
     
  3. barryr

    barryr Karting
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    Oct 16, 2010
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    I did the same including removing bumper, exhaust etc.. I've done 4 majors this way. If i remember the car has to be raised 26". the cart I made was only 4"-6" high.
    Barry
     
  4. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

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  5. barryr

    barryr Karting
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    One other point , the wheels have to be off the car for the frame below the engine to touch/rest on the cart I made.
    Barry
     
  6. tbakowsky

    tbakowsky F1 World Champ
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    Sep 18, 2002
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    What is the reason you dont want to pull it from the top? It seems you are having a bit of a difficult time figuring out how to get the height to drop it out the bottom.

    More worried about your safety then anything else.
     
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  7. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran
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    as I often mentioned I take the engine out to the top, but also remove the hood
     
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  8. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
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    I don't really have the equipment to take the engine out from the top and also have quite a lot experience in dropping boxers engines so that is how I will approach. We will get to the height but it may be in a few steps and not a single lift.

    Maybe I can get started draining and dismantling car on the 4-post lift this weekend, if the "4-post lift engine drop method" seem reasonable I may go that way.
    1. Drive car onto 4 post lift
    2. Lift to match height of a platform that's slided against the rear of the 4-post lift (for instance 2 48x48 pallets stacked + extension for the wheels)
    3. Raise lift so that is sit level to "platform"
    4. Roll car back a meter+ or so such that engine frame is clear at the rear end of the lift.
    5. Jack up rear of car so that the weight is on the frame at strongest point someplace rear of rear jacking points
      • the quickjack may be perfect on top of 4 post lift for that matter, very stable
    6. unhook whatever need be unhooked, stabilise engine / frame
    7. raise the 4 post gradually and engine and chassis will separate.
    8. pallet jack the platform out of the way.
    9. roll out premade wooden dolly for chassi, lower chassi to dolly, "strap it" on
    10. gently roll car off lift
    11. Lift is liberated.
    Theoretically sort of. :)
     
  9. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran
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    happy cleaning the lift when finished :)

    theory and praxis - 2 worlds meet :)

    good luck and happy working weekend ;)
     
  10. barryr

    barryr Karting
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    Oct 16, 2010
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    Except the rear suspension with the wheels also come out with the engine and transmission so rolling the car off the lift won’t work.
    Barry
     
  11. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

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    Yes I know, was planning on making a dolly with as big wheels as possibly for that purpose, same height as the rear frame sit at today.

    Something like this but in the correct scale, just strap the body/chassi down and roll away.


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    Sure, its a lot of wood and dollies but I always have pallets and dolly are always handy for other purpose as well.
     
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  12. barryr

    barryr Karting
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    Oct 16, 2010
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    lol. Ok. Just letting you know.
     
  13. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

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  14. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran
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    it is wide, yes, but not to wide. your lift seems too small ;)
     
  15. flash32

    flash32 Formula 3

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    Nice shop ..

    Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
     
  16. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

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    Thanks, my garage (I'll call it "shop" when I retire from my daytime job :)) is basically the results of collecting cars, motorcycles, parts and tools for 25 years.
     
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  17. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

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    I have made som modifications to the platform (was "dolly"), found 4 Pallets and a couple of old worktops cut to fit that made the base for this moveable platform.

    Platform has been tested and found useable, next step is to study the dismantling procedure and make a step by step list, I am sure there are a few of those in the forum so its more like finding a good and print it in a format I can take notes on.

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    Rolled back on platform.
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    The rear jack points are bit mangled but I will rather lift a little further back and use a little more frame to lift on.
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  18. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

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    4 hours of slow and not much progress, not getting fast forward on this one. o_O

    Drained the engine and gear oil, removed valance, bumper, exhaust and wheels. Looks like exhaust could have stayed with the engine but I had a hard time getting to the 6 mm bolts in the outer edge of the valance. One had to be sawed off as the chassi nut was spinning. One of the pipes in the exhaust also need be welded, maybe I'll even look for a more fun exhaust system before assemblance.

    Clearly see the "problem" draining radiators on 4 post lift now, need to get a good size low rise tray for the coolant, do not want to drop it on floor, that would be a mess.

    Another item that slowed me down was the driver side rear wheel, it took 3 extensions of tubing (5 feet in total) to get the center nut off. I will use recommended grease and torque it to the correct value.

    The rear suspension need new rubbers, looks like they all dried out. Better now than later!
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  19. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran
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    I think you mean the 8 mm?
    here are no 6 mm on the testarossa as I remember like the BB 512 has and even those are not 6 mm, they are 7 mm


    then you not have the right tools


    I told already in post 59 "happy cleaning" :)


    you just turned in the right direction? always rotate to open the nuts on both sides to turn direction to the front, so right side clockwise and left side anticlockwise
     
  20. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
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    #71 vincenzo, Mar 1, 2020
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2020
    M6 on the valence

    Use these to get fresh, uncorroded fasteners. OEM finish and quality. Ferrari does not use a wavy.... but I add it. For nuts, the nylocs are also on amazon.

    Caution - in general, Ferrari uses double high nuts in critical areas - do not substitute standard height nuts.

    Newco has double high nuts:
    https://www.newcoproducts.com/fasteners

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H7P4MPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077STF16C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    https://www.amazon.com/Hardened-Highest-Quality-BelMetric-WFHV6YLW/dp/B079K49S1T/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=M6+washer+yellow+zinc&qid=1583083009&sr=8-2
     
  21. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,671
    PS - the bumper uses TWO different thread pitches on the M10 nuts/bolts! Don’t assume!
     
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  22. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
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    Yes it was the M6 on the valance, it has rivet nuts and that one had come loose and at that location it was impossible to get a self locking plier on it.

    Thank you Joe but center nut was just very hard, I know these well from being through many and still living with 3 British cars.

    I was about to head home but decided to drain the cooling anyway, then oil tank and disconnect the brake line.

    Since I did not have a decent container for the cooling drain I made a plastic funnel and drained both radiators, my guess approx 12 liter cooling drained (and max a deciliter on the floor :) ) Nothing like old cardboard to soak up drips.

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    I hope this is the only spot to disconnect rear brakes, I let it drip and empty itself in a plastic can with a big hole cut in the side. I use lots of those, easy to place and drain.
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    Then I cut down the plastic and made a funnel for the oil from tank, no spillage on frame or floor.
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    Next time I cab get to the garage I am going to take away cabling, and cooling lines to engine, finally fuel line. Main harness to the engine, 2 connectors right?
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    Right side of engine, only the fuel line to disconnect I think.
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    Oil lines in the front, filter say 2010 but I have documents from major end of 2012, hmm. Maybe correct the car was not used much from 1998 to 2012, one US owner and he imported the car from Milano.
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    Both side has Vacuum and oil breathers, fuel line as well.
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    AC, most likely empty but I will follow the procedure, cooling lines here as well to disconnect.
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    Pretty fine engine all over, little miles since big job just before I got it.
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    At this stage I am happy with day one, was out of food in my garage and I spent a working day so it was nice to call it a day and read up more before proceeding.

    No printer at home nor in garage but tomorrow at work I am going to print out the 6-8 WSM pages about engine disassembly and some of the "engine out todo" lists here in the forum.
     
  23. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
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    Nice, I'm getting a form-a-funnel, thats something I really need. Plastic roll is ok but it take some time to line up and better a reusable item like that one.

    The hardware links will come in handy. Have a rolling table I use as a base for draining oil, usually place a 25 liter plastic can on top of it get very close to oilpan.
     

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