Testarossa malfunctioning stop lights

Please indicate what engine type TR you have -- F113A040 (US), F113B (late euro), F113A (early euro), etc.? (I think they are all the same for the brake light wiring, but best if you can be specific).

I'll describe this for a US version, so let me know if you have something else, and I'll check to confirm/deny if it is the same:

1. the +12V power comes from the "s" relay (when the key is "on") and the fuse and exits the PWB via the LN (blue/black) wire in the "w" connector (this is the third wire position down from the top). Measure the voltage here with the key "on" relative to ground -- should be +12V. Also unplug the "w" connector, and inspect for any "burned" terminals, and reseat.

2. the LN wire goes to one side of the brake switch (so it should still be +12V there whenever the key is "on"), and, when the brake switch is closed, the R (red) wire on the other terminal should also be +12V (so measure that too -- key "on" and brake pedal depressed = R wire should be +12V). The R wire returns to the PWB via the "w" connector in the 3rd wire position up from the bottom.

3. the R wire then exits the PWB via the "y" connector (two red wires in a single wire position). So same thing here -- unplug, inspect, reseat the "y" connector. If these red wires do go +12V with the key "on" and the brake pedal depressed, but the rear brake lights still don't work, give a shout, and we'll dig deeper -- but the schematic shows that those two red wires separate and go directly to the LH and RH rear lamp assemblies so, since you report that everything is not working, I'd be very surprised if the problem lies downstream of the "y" connector.
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Glad to hear that you got it sorted out - with all the recent reports of trouble with that brake light switch, I'm starting to wonder if my brake lights are working all the time or not

 

About your window problems. One of the posters here did an in depth overhaul of the window crank motor. It seems that after time, the lubricant/grease they use for the tooth/gear mechanism hardens causing the molasses speed. This person basically disassembled everything as well as posting notes on dos and don'ts and they worked a lot better. I don't have the link, but I remember it being easily found through search.

 

SPASSO did a great wright up with lots of pix.