Testarossa fuel injection rebuild

You should replace the copper washers with new ones. Once they are tightened down (crushed) they should not be re-used.

 

The copper washers should be replaced (or reannealed and cleaned, but this is way more hassle/cost than just buying new ones). When new, they are fully annealed = very soft. When they are crushed, they strain harden = not soft -- so they can't conform to the mating surfaces as well if reused, and might leak.

They are know as DIN 7603A or W60 washers if you want to find a local (more reasonably priced) non-F supplier.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Steve, where specifically did you order these? I had a hell of a time getting these, and ended up reannealing them. Its only about 2 minutes with a propane torch , get 'em red hot, douse with cold water...

 

Lots of folks on here have "beautified" the fuel supply system. Carreaper wire wheeled it, and used eastwood cad paint. I beadblasted, and used 2 part BMW gold paint... looks much better either way...

If I had to do it over, I would probably just use a scotchbright pad and some brake cleaner, then some 2 part paint. Both bead blasting and wire brushing remove the CAD plating. But it sure looks nice .

Some on here had the lines replated. Great, if its a local option for you. I was way to worried about sending irreplaceable lines ($$$$) cross country to get plated...

 

Yes, definitely not a hardware store item IME also. Being in the US (unlike Phil), I order both my W60 (Copper) and W63 (Aluminum) sealing washers from Global Metrics in Belmont, CA -- 650-592-2722 (a recommendation that Tony Palladino kindly passed on to me back when he had his own F shop in Redwood City):

http://www.yelp.com/biz/global-metrics-belmont

Doesn't make sense to order only onesies~twosies (because of the shipping costs), but anyone doing their own oil changes on a 3X8/TR can go thru 50~100 of the W60 22x27x1.5 in fairly short order -- so a wad of those + any few others needed is a good overall value IMO. And, as you know, the K/KE-Jet systems have a couple of candidate W60 sizes for a "bulk" order.

Did you try searching armed with the DIN 7603A spec, and still couldn't find an industrial source, or was your prior searching done without that identifying spec?

 

Thanks for the kind words Phil, but, no thanks, I've got my own F problems to deal with -- I just don't describe them here in gory detail like Shamile, but we all deal with the same sort of grief.

 

I do not think there has ever been a torque specified anywhere for those banjo bolts. You have to torque them carefully....you will sort of "feel" when you have them torqued enough when the copper washer "crushes". You will probably have to hold the fuel lines in their proper position when tightening the bolts, as the lines will want to rotate with the bolt a little bit. In the past, I have torqued the bolts to what I felt was adequate, then powered up the fuel pumps (do not start the car) and look for leaks, if you see a leak tighten till it stops leaking. It takes considerable force to get things tightened down, and I was nervous the whole time...but in the end everything worked out okay. Hopefully an experienced fchatter will post a better method than I have described here.

 

It's given on page M5 of the TR WSM (I think) = "Union for securing injector fuel hosing assembly to fuel distributor" = 1,5 daN-m = 11 ft-lb, but I use 13 ft-lb (based on the "feel" as per Jeff's post, and my particular torque wrench ) -- and this is one of the very few places where you can actually use a torque wrench. They give a bunch of "Injection System" torque specs on pages M4 thru M6, but:

1. The descriptions are very unclear IMO (and are for a K-Jet TR), so, even though they give the thread sizes to help identify things, it's hard to sure what's what (and they don't exactly correspond 1-to-1 to a KE-Jet TR), and

2. most connections can only be accessed with an open/box end wrench so Jeff's point about "feel" is a must (unless you have a set of open/box end torque wrenches).

 

you can buy

1 open crowsfoot wrenches
2 flarenut crowsfoot wrenches

 

Phil i got my copper washers from Maranellos and they were surprisingly cheap

 

Dear Ferraristi,

.....just because I like to kiss and tell !


Shamile

Freeze....Miami Vice !

 

[QUOTE=(a recommendation that Tony Palladino kindly passed on to me back when he had his own F shop in Redwood City)


He still has a shop in Redwood City.

 

Glad to hear that (I meant his old shop on El Camino).

 

Hi Phill ,
I got my copper washers , bolts and clamps from "Wurth". Very good quality.
I assume you also have that company in the UK

All the best
Vitor