Suspension Actuator.... AGAIN

A non functioning or (heaven forbid) a disconnected speedo sender will also cause a suspension light.

 

I'm just throwing out crap here. These ferrari incestuous electronics are just a pain. I have thought about how this system might work. One thing that could give us some clues is what happens when you unplug the suspension ecu, kill power and then power up the dash? I am thinking 3 things could happen:

1) suspension ecu not plugged= no activation of dash multi function light. My guess then would be some fault in only suspension system is causing the light or an old stored code in your suspension ecu if the SD1/2 is needed to erase them.

2) suspension ecu not plugged but light still active because some kind of ecu in dash looks for the suspension ecu . What happens on the dash if motronics are unplugged? A light would indicated some ecu in the dash that looks for things.

3) suspension ecu not plugged but light still active because motronic ecu looks for suspension ecu as part of ASR feedback. My guess is that motronic ecu stores the code and the light stays on until SD1 or SD2 turns it off.


Another possibility is do you know which actuator terminals to short that would look to the suspension ecu that a good actuator was on the car and functioning? My guess is that there is some kind of electronic failure that the suspension ecu reads as a failure. If you knew what that was you could take the acutuators totally out of the system so they could not influence a failure at these 4 points. Then it is possible that after a number of cycles the light will go off if the suspension ecu does not see a failure for some number of cycles like 50 engine starts. I have seen cars that will reset the code after a number of cycles if the error is fixed. I do not know if ferraris ever do this. If you truely have fixed the problem maybe you could get lucky after 50 starts.

I asked novitec once how they disable the ferrari suspension system to put in their 3way adjustable coilovers and shocks. They claimed to tap into the can bus and turn their lights permenantly off. To me this means there are solutions other than ferrari.

Are all mechanical issues solved? You can test to see if the actuators rotate but does the "crown inside" the shock turn freely that effects the shock rod? If the working actuators are unable to turn the rod you get a fault iirc.

 

Pull the error codes (aren't Stooges brilliant?!).

The system has 10 basic components; 4 shocks, 4 actuators, 1 ride control setting switch, and the shock computer. If any of them are bad the light will go on.

You can trouble shoot the problem to find out which component is bad. On my 95 Corvette (same shock system??) there was a process for connecting pins in the diagnostic connector to get the error codes to flash the Service Ride Control (SRC) light.

On my Vette, to display the codes you would jumper together pins A and C on the black plastic ALDL computer interface (in the upper left corner of the driver' side knee bolster). These pins are on the upper row and are lettered in this fashion as you look at them: E D C B A

To display the codes (which is simply a series of flashes of the suspension light) jump the pins and turn the ignition to Run and watch the SRC message lamp flash. *To clear the codes, you must jump those pins for two seconds doing it for a total of three times in a row.

Codes are two digit values and the sequence always begins and ends with a code "12". The SRC light flashes based on each integer of the code and the code repeats three times with a couple of seconds between each code value. For example a Code 12 flashes like this:
12= blink1, blink blink2 / blink, blink blink / blink1, blink blink2
(there is about a half second "/" pause between each of the three code integers)

A code 32 is:
32= blink blink blink3, blink blink2 (and repeats twice more)

After all of the codes have been displayed there is a final code 12 and the sequence repeats until you either pull the jumper or turn the ignition off

Here are the code meanings:
Code 12 = Start of sequence
Code 13 = Left Rear Time Out (possible bad shock)
Code 14 = Right Front Time Out (same)
Code 21 = Left Front Time Out (same)
Code 22 = Right Rear Time Out (same)

Code 23 = Loss of vehicle speed signal (this code will appear if the ignition switch is cycled On/OFF three times without the vehicle moving. Once the vehicle moves and there are no other codes the SRC light will go OFF but this code remains in history)

Code 31 = Left Front Out of Position (bad actuator/broken gear on shock rod)
Code 32 = Right Front Out of Position (same)
Code 33 = Left Rear Out of Position (same)
Code 34 = Right Rear Out of position (same)

Code 41 = SRC Switch short to Voltage
Code 42 = SRC Switch open contacts (console switch not positioned at one of the three detents) *this could catch you if you've checked the shocks/actuators thoroughly already
Code 43 = SRC switch circuit open.






Easy enough. What else do you need to know?! When the motor is turned on, each actuator cycles all the way one direction and then returns to the starting position. If any of the shocks are stuck, this will cause the fault code...ditto if the actuator spins without stopping.

OK, so what does this mean?! It means that you can manually turn each gear on top of the shock in both directions to see if it hangs anywhere. It SHOULD be smooth to turn...if you need pliers then the shock needs a rebuild. Easy test.

Also, keep in mind code 23. This code will appear if the ignition switch is cycled On/OFF three times without the vehicle moving (i.e. triggering the speed sensor). Once the vehicle moves and there are no other codes the SRC light will go OFF but this code remains in the shock computer history).

Since Ferrari uses the *same* or highly similar shock actuators as does the Corvette...well...I figure that the shock computer might be a bit similar, too. Ditto for "code 23" if you've been turning the ignition key to Run and then Off without driving anywhere.

 

couple points, the ecu for the suspension sets faults that can only be cleared by an SD2 or 3 to re-set them. there is also a steering sensor input on the column that can set off the light. the SD will also re-learn or re-set the values for the actuators to complete the job correctly.

your best option is to go to an independant that has the SD or the dealer. the st05 does not have suspension software the shop will need to have the SD.

 

You forgot to mention 2 components on your list, the (wiring harness) and the (accelerometer), this is the component that measures directional load and actively adjusts the suspension while driving the car.

Also, I have seen shocks with the valve adjusting gear stops broken (top of the shaft) causing the gear to keep turning without hitting the stop. This too will cause the warning light to illuminate.

I can't provide error codes because I have always and only used the Ferrari SD-1 tester to diagnose these problems.

 

I didn't know about the steering sensor or about the accelerometer!

Nice to learn that the SD-1 can pull the codes, though (*I did mention your point above about an actuator stop being broken, allowing the gear to keep rotating).

So pull the codes. Test the shocks. Test the shock actuators. Check the shock setting switch. Think about the recent vehicle history in case it's been turned to Run and then back to Off 3 times without the car actually being driven. Insure that the battery is fully charged and alternator is outputting proper voltage/amperage (ya never know!). These tests are going to cover a lot of potential faults, and are simple to do for the home wrencher.

 

When the warning light is illuminated the sysem is in static mode it is no longer active.

 

MY guess is that you can only clear codes with SD1 on the 456/550 per WSM. I am sure the SD2/3 will do it too but they were not around iirc during the SD1 reign. The vette system is similar in concept but different is practice and no parts are interchangable specifically the actuators. The Ferrari system cannot be read by flashing dash codes and the WSM has no mention of this method nor code list. The other poster about the st05 is correct it cann't deal with suspension. IMO I do not think it is worth it to fix a ferrari OE system once the costs start getting up there. I would rather research how to disable the Ferrari system and turn the light off so that a real 3way adjustable remote reservoir shock and coil over could be retrofitted. Hyperco 2.5" springs the whole deal. I routinely like to stick to OE systems but Ferrari coilovers just suck! There is nothing good about them ad it is tough to beat a good set of remote reservior 3way penskes and hyperco springs.

 

Yes and in theory locked in the last position the shocks were in. So if the system dies in a sporty mode it will stay that way which could be an advantage or you could just turn the shock crowns manually like other adjustable shocks.

 

Jagbuff....updates? Are you fixed?

 

You got it wrong its not $$$ Its $$$$$$$$!!!!

Anyway...was the tech able to use the SD to actually find the bad actuators that tested ok on bench or was it a trial and error thing?

 

I had an intermittent suspension light last summer. During the fall I went through all of the actuators, making sure the electrical connectors were clean and tight, and removed each one to confirm the gear on the top of each shock was in good shape. Then made doubly sure the actuator was properly seated on each shock. No change, light would still come up every 5 or 6th time I went for a drive.

I have several used spares, so I took one, and swapped it with the left rear, figuring the rears were easiest to get to, and would move it in a counter clockwise fashion until the light did not return. Miraculously, I picked the right one from the start! Somewhere I read a post from a Ferrari tech on another site, that on F355's, the rear actuators are more prone to failure.

 

Hey good info. I though you had to clear codes to give a retry. I did not know the lite would reset if the error was resolved.

 

You guys do know that Corvette actuators will work if you swap the wires, just cut of the top of your old one and re-solder the leads onto the Corvette actuator.

"bout $300 + an hours work and basically you have a brand new actuator.

 

Not true, the electronics are exactly the same. The Corvette actuator does not have one of the Hall effect sensors wired, all you have to do is unsolder the leads from both your old Ferrari actuator and the Corvette actuator and re-solder the Ferrari leads to the Corvette actuator is the same position as they were on the Ferrari actuator. I have done several with no problems.

I have had one running in my 550 for almost a year now.

Do a search under my user name for "actuators" and you will find I've spent more than a little time on the subject, it's been a work in progress but I think I'm as far along as possible with a cost effective viable solution.
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