I put the radiator flat on the ground, filled it with about 2 gallons of acetone, and, let it set for four hours. I had to tilt it back and forth to work out the air. The acetone cleaned out all the waxy gunk. Friday is the big test.
So, the radiator is back in. After running for around 30 mins. it reaches 110 and stays there. Is this normal? (Is it fixed?)
The experience I've had w/mine,...100 typically & @ times, a needle width or 2 below when light-footing it (in Fla. mind you).
Haven't seen it go past about a half a peg beyond 100c with it idling for about an hour to perform FI tune-up including CO tests (which takes time for things to settle in), all 3 fans kick in & maintain temps.
110 seems high for water temp to me. Seems to me that "normal" should be around the middle of the gauge, or 90. On my car, after all is warmed up, the oil temp then stays just above 100, which is good IMO, since any moisture in the oil will be boiled off. The only time that I've seen anything over 100 on the water temp was in 90+ degrees temps stuck in NYC traffic.
Yes, it seemed high to me. At least it's not overheating. I'll keep at it... As for the AC, I bought a Receiver Drier for a SAAB. 4 seasons part number 33255. It looks like a perfect replacement.
Are you measuring the temp with an IR temp gun? The number that the gauge on the dashboard gives you is only a "suggestion" of what the temp MIGHT be. Are the fans cycling on/off? Image Unavailable, Please Login
Got the AC half working, need more freon. There wasn't a drop of oil in the compressor, just a little brown muck that could have been oil a long time ago. Found some more brown muck in the condenser. Flushed it out with mineral oil. With 800g of 134a it just starts to cool. The book says 1500g for r12 so I'll see where I'm at with 1275g (85%). The SAAB receiver drier worked out perfectly. The way the pressure switch faces up, I think it fits better the the original. And at $35...
OK, just got back from a twenty minute drive in the 400. It felt very much like being in a car. The AC is around 90% charged with a 60 degree duct temperature. Good enough for now. The water temperature hung around 100 to 110, but the oil temperature was as high as 130 at times ??? At least it didn't overheat!
during this weeks hot weather in the bay area (95F-99F), I am seeing just over 90 on the gauge. Oil is always at or below the water. Make sure to bleed the water system. Really helps keep the temp down. Make sure that you look at the coolant for "odd" signs. Using acetone was a good idea, but it does take a lot of flushing to clean out. I would run you car for about 100 miles then power flush and replace the water/anti-freeze solution. Make sure to get all of the air out of the system The bleeder on my 365 Gt/4 is located on the housing for the upper radiator hose, looks like a 10 mm hex head cap screw. Also, what weight oil are you using? I use 20-50 SWEPCO racing oil. Not so good on consumption factors but really works at controlling temp. Another suggestion has been to use Kendall 40W. Better oil consumption factors and basically the same temp control help. One obvious question, are you sure you have a 90C thermostat? It might not be, might be a 110C unit. Look into it. Good Luck.
What's so hard about this? Are the fans cycling on/off? It's critical to proper cooling system operation.
The fans go on at 70 degrees and don't turn off. I'm going to pull the oil cooler and flush it out. At this point it can't hurt! I think it strange that the water temp seems fine but the oil is hot.
IT IS FIXED!!!! The timing was way off. Somehow the ignition setting in my ecu changed and that through the timing way back. Now, after romping around in 90 degree heat, the needle hardly moves past 90c. FINALLY!!
Now THAT is an installation that I'm sure a lot of us would like to see and have more information about!