I'm off to the parts store for a new radiator cap. The ones in the store are rated in PSI not BAR. My question is: When a cap is rated at .9 BAR does that mean 1.9 BAR for the purposes of conversion? How could a cap be rated at a lower pressure than atmospheric? (1 BAR) So, I'm going with a 28ish PSI cap that would be 1.9 BAR. Does this sound correct?
Thanks. Just got back from the store where I found 13 PSI caps. I guess caps rated in PSI are PSI above 14.5. So, a 13 PSI cap is really 27.5 PSI or 1.9 bar.
Well. It seems that I need to have the radiator boiled out. Before I pull it, is there anyway to flush it out while in the car? I have a pump and and heater tank to run flush through the radiator. I ran simple green mixed with water for a couple of hours but NG.
I do not know what you are trying to clean out of the cooling systom, but for oil using automatic dishwasher soap is the stuff like 'Cascade' it does not foam and works well, Fritz
Mark; If I'm not mistaken, the radiator cap is not a pressure cap but rather a bare cap w/rubber seal in it, the pressure cap is used on the overflow tank (opposite from typical applications)---don't know Ferrari's engineering behind it. Wouldn't the rad be easier to flush out of the car if you have to pull it anyway? Bruce
If you're pulling the radiator, get it ultrasonic cleaned. Did that in the Dino when I was getting a radiator leak repaired. Figured it was out of the car may as well get it really clean. Worked like a charm, better than ever. Fresh coat of paint and in it went. Don't know what part of the world you're in, so I can't recommend a specific shop. DM
Yea, I know I'm a dumb ass. When I pulled the motor you would think I would have had the radiator rodded. But noooooo, I was too much of a hurry to get it all back together. When I pulled it all apart the hood was off. Can the radiator be removed with the hood on? Bruce, it does seem strange to put the pressure cap on the overflow since air compresses much easier than water. You would think that would allow pre-boil in the heads. Dave, I'm in Northern NJ. I used to own a software company in the Villanova area so I know it well. Where is the shop you used? I'm going through all this because: I found oil in the radiator and water in the oil. The synthetic oil and water had formed something that looked like cheese wiz in the radiator. So, I pulled the engine and gave it a clean up and new gaskets. I thought I had flushed the radiator clean so I put it all back together. What I've done so far: Pressure filled the system to eliminate air locks. Pressure tested the cooling system over night at 15 PSI. Pressure tested the cooling passages in the engine at 90 PSI for two days. Repaired the water pump to correct the impeller to cover clearance. Replaced the fan thermostat. Replaced the coolant thermostat. Flushed EVERYTHING I could find in my garage through the radiator using a separate pump and holding tank. EVERYTHING = Simple Green, dish soap, drain cleaner, radiator flush, and muriatic acid. Now: If it idles for around 10 mins. it will overboil. If I run a garden hose on the radiator it will idle forever. After all the flushing, I still see a slight oil film in the holding tank when flushing with clean water. So: I think some of the radiator tubes are clogged. But: Before I pull the radiator, is there anything I should try?
Why did you replace the thermostat? What new thermostat did you use? Was the new thermostat identical to the old one and correct for the car? Did you test the new thermostat before installing it? New ones are frequently defective.
Why did you replace the thermostat? > The car was overheating so I thought that maybe the old one wasn't opening all the way. What new thermostat did you use? > OEM Was the new thermostat identical to the old one and correct for the car? > Yes Did you test the new thermostat before installing it? New ones are frequently defective. > I tested it after I installed it by monitoring the hose temperature.
The heater hoses and heater cores have oil in them and the best way to remove it is to run automatic dish soap in water in your cooling systom with the heater on, automatic dish soap does not foam like regular dish soap so you will not have hot areas in you engine, like the heads you would like to stay flat. My car also boils over if it idles to long, I basicly quit driven it when it is over 100 F (all summer).unless I am on the highway. I would liike to get a better rad. for it if you come across one please let me know.
Fritz, I'm way past dish soap. The core is plugged with an oily mung that has resisted all sorts of cleaners including drain cleaner! Tonight, with the help of my lovely assistant Patty, I removed the radiator without removing the hood. If you remove the sway bar mounts and swivel it down, you can lower the trans and oil cooler out of the way without removing their hoses. The radiator shop tells me that given $200 and three days I'll have a stripped, rodded, and painted radiator. While I'm at it I'll convert to R-134a. Does anybody know the Parker part number for the receiver / drier?
Mark, This is what Dave found, good luck! Bruce http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=166402&highlight=129101
Maybe, thanks. As for the radiator, today the shop pulled the top tank and rodded the core. There wasn't any real blockage, just a thin waxy coating that the hot tank couldn't remove. Also, the baffle on the top wasn't completely soldered in place. So, when the shop is finished I'll fill the radiator with acetone and let it sit over night to make sure all of the gunk is removed. I'll also run hot water with a little Dawn through the engine.
Mechanic's looking for work would put foaming agents, like Dawn, Alaka Selsar into the cooling systom to make them boil over early. Then claim head gasket.
I'm pumping it through with a sump pump in a bucket of water. After, I'll pump a ton of water through that should clear any suds.
I've found that auto. dishwasher soap w/screaming hot H2O removes the toughest baked on foods off of pans when soaked for a couple of hrs.