Hey guy, I have no experience using a collet type of stud removal tool. I'm Looking into a Snap On set. Found this video: http://youtu.be/4IFF_-6xwpE Seems just like a 5C collet for machine tools only threaded. This looks like a great method. Thoughts / comments? Thanks.
They work well, and you can pick your sizes. Other types will roll the threads and require a cleanup.
Thanks. I see they also have another style which looks handy for areas of reduced clearance. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I have all variants, roller, collet and the "smash and turn" last resort before it goes to the burn out removal guy. I prefer the collet tool as it saves the threads, but it's not a cheap option. I use the roller set more often as most studs remove easy enough and at least with Ferrari the studs are double ended with a shank so the tool will grab the shank vs the threads and they come out fairly easy. Now for install the williams collet works for that as well so it's a dual purpose tool. For the small stuff like M6 I have a small socket tool that's threaded with a pressed in ball bearing at the bottom, installs studs very quickly and you don't have to tighten loosen any collars. Really saves time on the bazillion m6 studs ferrari loves to use.
Each has its purpose depending on your goal. Left is just double nutting that works if the stud is not really in the workpiece. Then the spec sized collet and its companion to place studs. Finally the roller that has a narrow range of SAE or metric it will except. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I have the collet style and the roller style. I use the collet style 90% of the time. It will take out 14mm wheel studs that are heavily loc-tite bound. They are big and pricey but worth it.
Thanks, Wade. It appears Snap on is selling Williams made removers. Does anyone know the Williams P/N for the metric set?
You know I looked up Williams stud puller sets. The product descriptions on Amazon and two other tool sites don't even state whether it is metric, or standard, and what sizes are included in the sets. The prices are clear to see, more than $300. Here is a message to the Williams marketing people: If you don't feel good enough to describe what it is you are selling, I don't feel good enough to buy your stuff. You can stuff it.
Mitch, the one listed on Amazon and other sites is english only (87032). I cannot find a metric set P/N - it may only be offered thru Snap on which is $570 list and I'm told from my rep no discount on that item. Snap on seems to be reducing their discount structure or it's just my rep... Also - Williams is now owned by Snap On I might just make my own set using 5C emergency collets....
So if you are going to make your own, I like a few for myself. I do not need all the sizes, just a few. M8, M10, and M11 is all I need.
I had broken Cylinder studs on my Ducati engine and wanted to get a set of metric collets but someone outbid me on a slightly used set on eBay and I just sucked it up and did it the hard way. You may get lucky and find a used set.
Here you go, Baum tools shows a set, no price though. Heavy Duty Stud Removal Kit 28DBC [28DBC] : Baum Tools Specialty Auto Tools, Specialty European Auto Tools As to snap-on, the part number for the metric set is in the catalog I have as: CGM515B
Perfect - thank you! Just ordered $172.95. Turns out that P/N is wrong but the pictures and description is correct. Correct - that is what I posted above at $570
I have an 11mm collet for the Snap-on tool listed in the classifieds. Snap-on no longer makes this size. Image Unavailable, Please Login
The Snap-On sets are actually made by a company called Hydramec, Inc. Here's their website: Hydramec, Inc. - Stud / Dowel Tools
Dave, I have a full metric set of the Snap-On CG500 stud removal tool: housing and all the collet sizes for my 330 2+2 which also covers my 430, so far. I have absolutely no complaint about the tool. It is probably the least-damaging to studs, which should be re-usable. I also use it to install studs, just a few inch-pounds on steel studs in aluminum parts. Three points to remember: 1) the collet thread MUST match the stud threads. Just like a M8x1.0 nut won't fit on a M8x1.25 bolt, the Ferrari M8x1.25 exhaust stud needs an M8x1.25 collet. 2) each collet has a groove that must engage a pin in the ID of the housing or things will not work. 3) I lubricated the contact surfaces (housing-to-collet) and the housing screw threads with anti-seize. Tom 2007 F430F1 Coupé (Izzy)
Here is a corollary to this discussion...how much do you tighten studs into the workpiece before you say put on an engine cover or head and torque the bolts?
FBB, Steel studs into aluminum: just a few inch-pounds to make sure the stud bottoms out in the hole. No anti-seize and no threadlocker on the end of the stud that goes into the aluminum. You can put anti-seize on the nut end, if desired. Make sure the hole is cleaned out before installing the stud: I use a chasing tap, compressed air and Q-tip, as necessary. Tom 2007 F430F1 Coupé (Izzy)
When I worked for GM, many studs were fully automated installations (I designed a few) and the fastening was done with IR rundown equipment. I seem to recall some of the threads being coated with a thread locker. I'll hit up my buddy who still works there and see what kind of torque they are using. I just don't recall as it was a long time ago.
Well I think it is an interesting discussion. I do it toms way which is conventional wisdom as far as I know. I use locker if a stud goes into a water jacket. If using a locker I'm careful to torque critical fasteners before the locker has set to utilize the full desired dynamics of the torque application to the stud and nut. There are some lockers that expand upon anerobic setting. I dont use those since they change forces in the surrounding area. The claim is a stud close to a cylinderwall with expanding locker on a race motor isn't good. True or false I don't know. Just use a nonexpanding locker. I have always put steel studs in ferrari aluminum blocks clean and dry. On acura NSX blocks I use antiseize/anticorrsion because the nsx motor has lame metalurgy where you get galvanic corrsion and your steel eats the threads in the aluminum. The antiseize seems to slow that down. If I have to frequently take off say the case on a hewland racing gearbox I will use locker on the studs so that the nuts always come off vs sometimes the nut staying firm and the stud unscrewing.
