Steering Rack Removal | FerrariChat

Steering Rack Removal

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by Shamile, Aug 2, 2015.

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  1. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #1 Shamile, Aug 2, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    With the Lamborghini in Miami, I finally have some time to remove the steering rack to have it rebuilt. I was getting the typical "clunk" on the right side. With I removed the boot, the bushing was completely broken down.

    I read a few vague threads in a search and it seems the aluminum mounts come off with the rack....not the half clamps in front.

    Where do I remove the ends....at the upper mounts or do I unscrew the alignment thread.

    Please advise.




    Shamile

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  2. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    #2 Melvok, Aug 3, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Seen the drawing ? (512TR)

    What's your aim Shamile, refurbish yourself or find another used one ?

    "It's just a car" :D

    So disconnect column at #7, and 2 x at #6 wheles, the 2 x #8 and #9 and it's out ... (also do renew joints #2)
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  3. godabitibi

    godabitibi F1 Veteran

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    I'm almost sure it has the same bushing as the Pantera like the 308s. Very easy to fix.
     
  4. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    Do we see a name / brand on that rack ? (last photo)
     
  5. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    Thanks guys. I want to pull it and have it refurbished with all new seals, bushings and grease.

    The rack is made by TRW. When I get it out, I'll post a picture.

    Shamile

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  6. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
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    You may want to check with TRW for the cost of a new rack. I recall many years ago it was not much more than refurbishing the old. The cost was in the removal/installation, which you will do yourself.
     
  7. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #7 Shamile, Aug 3, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Alrighty, I got the bolts off that hold the rubber bushings with a 13mm ring spanner and a 13mm ring ratchet. You need slender wrenches as you remove the bottom bolt first, slide up the spanner on the inner bolt head and use the ring ratchet on the outer upper nut.

    I removed the steering U joint bolt and with a large flat head screw driver wrapped in cloth pushed against the U joint and the guide bracket mount. The steering column shaft just popped off.

    The rack while being able to push forward, will not come off due to the lower bolt head rubbing just slightly against the sway bar. It looks like I will have to remove the outer clamps on the rack.


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  8. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #8 Shamile, Aug 3, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  9. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

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    there are special tools for removing. but you also may try to take 2 hammer, one you hold behind ( so where there is the turnbuckles head going into the steering nuckle ) and with the other you beat on the other side. don´t beat on the thread ! ! !
     
  10. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    That's what I thought too :)
     
  11. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    #11 Melvok, Aug 4, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  12. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    Thanks Melvok. The picture won't load but I'll check if the rack is still available once I pull it out.

    Turbo, I think I'll buy a bearing puller and put a piece of aluminum between the center pin and the threads. The "claws" can sit on the upper side of the steering knuckle.

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  13. godabitibi

    godabitibi F1 Veteran

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    Buy a deep nut of the same size thread and a bolt. Deep nut on the threads and the bolt firmly tighten in it to bottom out on the tip of the pin. One good hit on the head of the bolt and it's done with no damage.
     
  14. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

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  15. 302Tim

    302Tim Formula 3

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    Shamile, Harbor Freight has the remover 3/4" Forged Ball Joint Separator but I have never needed one. As mentioned there are other methods. If replacing the tie rod ends just beat the old ones out (they are a taper fit, that's why they don't just "slide" out). If re-using the "shock" method Romano describes usually works (I use a brass hammer), otherwise the method Claude describes sounds like a good solution too.

    I have read that there are clearance issues getting to the attaching hardware and removing the rack so please let us know how you work it out.

    Addl threads:
    http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/486235-testarossa-steering-rack-rebuild.html
    http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/366206-aussie-testarossa-rebuild-4.html (post #352)
     
  16. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    Lots of help Shamile, go to your local garage and borrow that piece of (general) equipment ...

    It's just a car ... :)
     
  17. ozziindaus

    ozziindaus F1 Veteran

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    Good advice and try and get a lesson on how to use it while you're at it. Tell them you'll have it back in a jiffy. They should understand...
     
  18. JohnMH

    JohnMH Formula 3

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    I just did this job on my 91. A bit of a pain, but easy once you realize how to get the rack out (you seem to have that sorted).

    You need to loosen the bracket under the dash in the photo and wiggle the knuckle off of the splined shaft.

    If it is still in the car it may just be easier to buy a bushing and replace it in situ. Rocks Auto Restoration sold me a bronze one. It is just a matter of cleaning out the broken plastic bits, replacing the grease and installing the new bushing along with boots and clips from Superformance (it needs to be honed to fit the rack first).

    If you remove it, the hardest bit is reinstalling the knuckle on the splined shaft in the tunnel where the rack sits.
     
  19. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #19 Shamile, Aug 5, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017

    Hard part?? You mean there's a hard part to come? I didn't get the time today to buy a tie-rod remover but I like the ideas presented.

    I did remove the bracket from inside the footwell with no problems. I just sprayed some PB Blaster the night before on the protruding studs in the steering rack area.

    I was able to push...pull...swear....pull...push and got the rack off the main holding bracket without removing the aluminum outer clamps on the rack.

    Just remove the tie-rods and out it will come.....hopefully.


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  20. PAP 348

    PAP 348 Ten Time F1 World Champ
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    Nice going Shamile, hopefully she slides straight out after those rod ends are removed.

    How long has it taken you to get this far?
     
  21. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    Must have been 12 times 4 minutes by now :D
     
  22. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

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    why 12 times 4 minutes?
    please explain
     
  23. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #23 Shamile, Aug 13, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  24. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #24 Shamile, Aug 13, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    After I removed the ball joints I thought...oh cool, here we go! I tried to twist over the rack to slide it out...umm...NO! The threaded end for the steering column is too long.

    Heyyy....wait, look under the rubber boot on the threaded end, there's a allen bolt holding a threaded extender. Ah ha! So, in a twisted, contorted kinda way, I hold one side with a allen wrench and my mini ratchet and unscrew the bolt...but it won't slide off. A little WD 40 to the rescue and it slides right off.

    Alright....now we can get the rack off! Umm...no, what do you mean no?

    Well, no matter how you twist and turn the rack it will not slide out. The aluminum clamps hit the hard brake line clamp or the sway bar bushing.

    Ok, now that the rack will twist easily, turn it over and unbolt the aluminum clamps from the rack itself.

    Once the clamps are removed, the rack easily...yes, easily slides out. Putting it back? We'll cross that bridge when we get there. ;)


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  25. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #25 Shamile, Aug 13, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    ....and the rack comes out!


    I was going to send it to Atlantic Rack in SC but JM-348 had a bad experience where they took the rack, held onto it and then just retuned it and said sorry....can't do it.

    Both JM 348 and Chairman recommended AW Auto Parts. I spoke with Dave who was very helpful. He explained that Atlantic is very good but the TRW bushing in NO LONGER available. That's why Atlantic can't service it. AW actually has to machine it themselves.

    Before I sent it off, Dave explained that his tech that works on the rack has gone to Italy on vacation and won't be back until Sept 1st. He tried to locate a rebuilt rack for me but all his customers said no way lol Sooooo.....I've sent mine off and will wait until September for his tech to come back. Because of the situation, Dave did offer me a discount and said my rack would be first upon his tech's return. You can't ask for better than that.


    AW Imported Auto Parts Inc.
    52 Highway 35
    Eatontown, NJ 07724
    AW 732 542-5600 Ext 21

    Cell 732 801-7779
    [email protected]



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