Gang, Since my last thread totally got hijacked I am starting a new one designed SOLELY for people to provide CONSTRUCTIVE input for those embarking upon the SRI gold kit install. If you want to scream and yell about gold vs tin for 45 pages please start your own thread...Now back to our regularly scheduled programming... ECU update: I managed to finally get the ECU plug done yesterday. Much smoother sailing this time. Took approx 4 hours. Very fiddly project requiring total concentration lest you insert a terminal in the wrong hole and have to start over. Good news is that the shiny new gold terminals all went in without incident. I did have to struggle with getting the pin block back into the housing/clamp and the "snap in" is not as flush as I'd like. For a "victory lap" I took the 355 on a spirited drive up hwy 1 to a town an hour north of SF called Marshall. Awesome drive. Spectacular drivers road. If you ever get a chance, do it. The 355 seemed more responsive, more powerful, smoother power band, more planted. Revved up to 7k and back down without hiccups or hesitation. Really seemed like a happier vehicle. The idle still seemed a bit rough but nothing worse than before. Now for the bad news: I cleared the CELs before I drove off and after 53 miles, the dreaded yellow light came back on. I wasn't totally expecting that the ECU job would clear all my CELs. My expectation was that the light probably would come back on but that when I pulled the codes this time the number of faults would be lower. No such luck. Before the ECU being "reterminaled" I had 10 faults. Now I have 11. @&$)&@!!! They are basically the same as before, which are: 1448 1449 0341 0132 0152 0158 1115 1117 1119 1121 0137 Rather disappointed that I have seen not only no improvement in reducing faults but that actually the number of faults is increasing. Full disclosure, I have not yet done the 12-pin rectangular plug (with those tricky pins) and the one sensor under the engine that's hard to get to. That said, not sure those will really change things. I'd been told that the ECU was the big daddy plug that would really turn things around for me. So far, that has not happened. Back to the drawing board. Getting frustrated... ketel
Sorry to hear there has been no improvement. Glad you started a new thread. I had to quit reading the other one due to the bull$%&t. Hope you find and solve your problem. I am pulling for you. Wish I had some input that would help. Good luck.
Yes, also sorry to hear that. The shame is that you won't really know whether there is really an improvement because you have so many other issues to get corrected. 0132 O2 sensor circuit high voltage Sensor 1 Bank 1 0137 02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Sensor 2 Bank 1 0152 O2 sensor circuit high voltage Sensor 1 Bank 2 0158 02 Sensor Circuit high Voltage Sensor 2 Bank 2 0341 Cam position sensor 1115 to 1449 are Ferrari specific and I won't say what I think they are because I'm not sure. Ketel, It's time to get your care connected to an SD2 and properly diagnosed. [edit] If these codes are correct you ECU is running is default mode and the engine is effectively way out of tune. Also, I would not worry too much about the crank position sensor (TDC) as if you are not getting a code you probable have a strong signal.
Ketel, I am also glad you started a new thread and hope that the moderators will keep the non constructive posters at bay. You have a number of codes here that are Exhaust Bypass Valve and Secondary injector code related. The ECU's that are on the rear passenger side of the car often look okay but have small cracks in them that allow moisture to get in. The lower ECU on that side of the Car is for the Exhaust ByPass Valve and Secondary Air Injectors. Of the codes you listed I am glad to see you don't have any that match the Slow Down light. Why am I telling you this you say? Because I have a simple thing for you to try to see if you can get rid of the first 2 codes listed. Swap the connectors from the lower ECU to the top ECU, the ones that are on the rear passenger side. The cables are long enough you can do that without having to move the ECU's. If your lower ECU is in fact bad you will now get 2 new codes for the Slow Down lights but the 1448 and 1449 codes should be gone since they are being fed a signal from the good ECU. Does this make sense? One more thing are you resetting the car properly? Turn on the hazard lights, turn off everything else including the climate control. Turn off the battery as usual. Let it sit like that for hours, I usually leave it like that over night. When you are about to fire it up, turn off the hazard lights. Turn on the battery. Start the car and let sit idling for a good 5 to 10 minutes. When you do drive off, take it easy for the first 50km trying to keep the RPM's below 2,400. Its very hard to do, you have to short shift big time and take roads that don't require you to have to drive quickly. After the 50km (30 miles) then you can start to drive normally but still try and avoid full throttle until you have travelled at least 100km (60 miles). I hope this helps you in some way and I do wish you success.
I forgot one more thing. I got some of those codes once (152 and 158) when I replaced my cats and didn't pay attention to how the O2 sensors were plugged in and put them in the wrong order. I had put the pre-cat O2 in the post-cat O2 spot. Since then I have learned that the Pre-Cat O2 black wiring cover has what looks like a blue circle on it near the plug. The Post-Cat O2 is all black.
Like they stated I would actually see what each sender is doing to see if they are in spec instead of using a shotgun approach. Do 1 code at a time and go from there with surgical precision. If you suspect and ECU issue see if you can swap with someone for a day Remember the chicken before the egg or something like that.
First in order to get proper report of codes please you need to disconnect battery there is no specific time. So it is safe and expedient to disconnect battery and leave a dome light on for just 15 mins. Yes if you did this for longer you may discharge more circuitry but I doubt it is really needed. In fact it would be hard to clinically prove more than a miniute is better. Then you need to clear all codes with an OBD2 reader. Has this been done before reporting the 11 codes? Then you run at idle all accessories off for 15mins. Drive the car come back check codes. Its great that your car feels like it is running better. Let's get the codes cleared and make it run awesome.
Yes, I have been resetting but following a slightly different procedure. I will give this method a try. Thanks.
Ketel- Without doing a run cycle like FBB described, it would take several drives for the Motronic DMEs to relearn everything they need to learn and extinguish transient codes and restablish contact with the other ECUs through the CAN. Symptoms could be rough idle. airconditioning refusing to operate, etc.
1448 cat bypass 1449 cat ecu 0341 cam pos circ 0132 02 circ b1s1 0152 02 circ b2s1 0158 02 circ b2s2 1115 02H circ b1s1 1117 02h circ b1s2 1119 02H circ b2s1 1121 02H circ b2s2 0137 02 circ Ok once you verify you are resetting codes as instructed this is the decoded code. New circuits/gold pins wont fix a dead 02 sensor and an 02 sensor aint goin to fix wiring problems. Part of the reason for the GCK is to make sure the wires are no longer suspect. Note that 9 of the codes don't say 02 sensor but something 02 circuit. This can mean there is a wiring problem like miss labeling during GCK install or really dead 02 sensors. Remember that you can test 02 sensors and their heater circuits so do that to narrow down whether you got an sensor problem or a wiring problem. The cam sensor code is most likely a bad cam sensor or a wiring issue. Fchat is replete with SDECU defeat threads because the SDECU is Ferrari's retirement plan. They make them suck so you have to keep buying them. You could have a real issue with a dead SDECU they die all the time but make sure you wired it right. In your average toyota 02 sensors last 100k miles. why do they die in ferraris with low miles? Are they really dead? having all 4 02 sensors have dead heater circuits on a low mile Ferrari?????????? Humm.....
Ketel, you O2 codes are as I said. They are either shorted heater, voltage too high, or voltage too low. If you recall, way back when you started this install I suggested you test the heaters as you don't get a shorted heater from a bad connector. You may have a truly shorted heater or a short in the wiring harness. Testing the heaters is simple and you don't even need to remove the O2 sensors from the car to do it. You will recall we went through how in the old thread. As for voltage too low, here are typical causes for the rear sensor P0137 code, 02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Sensor 2 Bank 1 : Bad O2 sensor Exhaust leak near the rear sensor Plugged catalyst Short to voltage on O2 signal circuit High resistance or open on O2 signal circuit Causes for P0158 02 Sensor Circuit high Voltage Sensor 2 Bank 2: Bad O2 sensor Wiring in contact with exhaust components Engine running rich Holes in exhaust causing ECU to over-rich engine resulting in an abnormally high Bank 2, sensor 2 reading Short to voltage on signal circuit For code 132 and 152, O2 sensor circuit high voltage Sensor 1 Bank 1 and 2: Bad O2 sensor incorrectly reading rich condition The oxygen sensor heater circuit is shorted out The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed Engine running rich and O2 sensor correctly reading rich condition Signal shorted to voltage in harness Wiring harness damage/melted due to contact with exhaust components Leaking injectors Bad fuel pressure regulator Bad ECU Note that there are some reoccurring themes here. Running rich, shorted O2 heaters, and exhaust leaks. I believe in the old thread you mentioned working on the exhaust and accidentally hooking up the O2 sensors wrong. I don't know that this would damage the sensors but it might. Get out your Ohm meter and check the O2 sensor heaters.
Following the advice of FBB and others, I did a hard reset of the vehicle today. I turned on the hazards last night and turned off the battery. I let the vehicle sit overnight. This afternoon I turned off the hazard button, turned the battery kill switch back to the ON position, cleared the 11 fault codes, and fired her up so she could idle for 10 min or so. After the idling, I drove the vehicle 60 highway miles, not exceeding 2500rpm the entire time. (Easier said than done) No CEL light appeared. No Slow Down light either. Car drove smoothly (granted, I wasn't exactly hammering it) but idle was still a bit rough and jerky for my taste. Quick question: assuming I can keep the CEL lights away long enough, when will the vehicle have "cycled" enough to be ready for a smog test? I've read contradictory advice on this. Thanks. ketel
Ketel- The run cycle should make her ok for an emissions test. For your rough idle, try a can of Techron concentrate. Cured the rough start on my car and, if it is injectors, it might help your idle. At $12, cannot lose much. I did not really expect anything when I tried it, and the results really surprised me. Glad your glitches have disappeared.
It would have been a great baseline had you done this before the kit install.... Glad your codes are gone.
OMG! No codes? I think the GCK is magic but from the gyrations you have been through I am surprised NO CODES! Yippi. That might put the naysayers to sleep. To your question the answer is a combo of cali law and OBD2. You got no codes that is 1/2 the battle. Next you need to check with your obd testor for readiness monitors. 3/5 must be set yes or you fail even if emissions pass. If you have monitors not set then you need to do a drive cycle to set them. Some cars are very hard to set. Ferrari has a process that is a Ferrari drive cycle. Sometimes it does not work. I actually have a variation of the Ferrari 550 drivecycle that will set everything 100% that works in my town. It is a specific combo of stop starts, city, and freeway driving and a specific fuel level. Some cars you can set monitors just by driving the car. Ferraris are notoriously difficult. Google the issue and you will find even some Nissan models that will not set for example. At this time just put in 3/4 tank of gas and drive the car make some stops and drive some freeway and see if you can reset yes the monitors. If no then post back here and we will figure it out.
If he did the same procedure prior to installing the kit and still had codes, that would be a great data point, a data point that he had an issue with the electrical connections but not a data point that the gold contacts where the fix but perhaps fresh, non corroded contacts were.
Op is not interested in advancing science for mankind or native curiosity. But you are welcome to do the research on your car and let us know how it works out. Lets just stay on topic and answer the OP's questions.
I think the point that Dave Rocks is making is valid, and reasonable to post in this thread since the thread is about helping others with the install. Dave's point is that that it is important to clear the codes and reset the ECU correctly before hand to know what is happening and to establish a good base line regarding what codes are present. It is wonderful that Ketel has is car back. But it leaves the question open as to the role of the GCK in eliminating his codes since Ketel has stated that previously he did not use the correct procedure to reset the ECU. It would also seem that friends of DH should encourage him to make it clear in the instructions that it is important to reset the ECU correctly, both before and after the install, and to add exactly how this is to be performed. The procedure FBB posted is basically the same as the Ferrari recommended procedure with the exception that Ferrari recommends (in the document they sent me) letting the car sit 8 hours with the batter disconnected, and to perform the drive cycle with about 1/2 tank of gas. The 1/2 tank of gas is important as the Evap monitor will not reset is the tank is full. (This is not unique to Ferrari). The thing to be stressed is that if you are contemplating installing the GCK, or even if you are just trying to diagnose a problem with your car, it is important to correctly clear the codes, reset the ECU and drive the car prior to beginning to see which, if any, codes reappear to establish a base line. Otherwise, as demonstrated here, you truly are chasing ghosts which may be the result of improper resetting of the ECU in the past.
I have an OBD reader and have only cleared a couple CELs twice. I have done it with the engine running. Can you see and clear the codes without starting the car? This would be a good post for the sticky section. Exactly how to correctly reset the ECU and clear codes, step by step. Thank you
Clearing codes is not the same as resetting the ECU. You can clear codes without the engine running, but key must be on. But if all you do is clear the codes, without resetting the ECU, (and/or fixing the problem that caused the code), the codes may (will) come back. The document I received from Ferrari is technically for 360 but Ferrari told me is was appropriate for a 355 OBD II car as well. Ferrari said car should have about 1/2 tank of gas and to disconnect battery and let car sit for 8 hours. The reconnect battery. 1) Start car, let idle for 4 minutes. (Doc says 4. Ferrari tech suggested 10-15). 2) Drive car normally (no hard acceleration or erratic shifting) in 3rd or 4th gear at 2000-2500 RPM maintaining constant speed for 3.5 miles. Accelerate to 4500 rpm in 4th gear, then slow down to 2000 rpm. 3) Stop and let car idle for 5 minutes, then turn key off. 4) Restart car and driver normally (no hard acc or erratic shifting) for 10 minutes. 5) Check rediness codes [monitors] with SD2 or SD3 or with OBD II scaner.
That I understand. In the above posts for Ketel I was unclear as to when to clear the codes within the instructions for reestting the ECU. Before the procedure, after the procedure, engine on or off?
If it were me the first thing I would do is clear the codes, then do the ECU reset/drive cycle. The engine does not need to be running to clear the code with a scanner but the ignition does need to be on. Then I would drive the car a while to see if any codes reappeared. It can take a while for a problem (sensor, connection or otherwise) to show up. Anyway, if the codes don't reappear then you have to decide if you want to go ahead with the install or not. If they do show up again, then you have to decide if you want to try to determine if its a sensor or a connection problem and whether you want to try to diagnose the problem or just do the install and see what happens. What ever you do, after each step I would clear the codes and reset the ECU. We are still assuming that the codes will not reappear in ketels car. That will take time. 60 or 100 miles is hardly enough. I'll give you an example from my own experience on my 96 328is. The car has a bad Evap valve which I should replace. But I'm lazy and I don't drive that car much. However, it needs to pass emissions so I reset the codes, drove it through its drive cycle and all the monitors reset, the CEL did not come back on, it passed emissions fine. A few hundred miles later, on a trip from my home in CT to my sisters in Lancaster Pa the CEL came on and a scan showed that it was again the Evap valve. Also had a problem with my 99 Miata. It would throw a code for an intermittent misfire. I'd reset the codes and it would take 400 or 500, miles before it came on again. I have no idea what the problem was. It was a Miata. I didn't care. I ran fine and was easy to reset the code for emissions.
