Spray Paint to Paint Model??? Best spray paint???

Rattle can??? Yikes! Ok, in all fairness I have seen awesome results from rattle cans. And I have seen everything used from Home Depot to some fairly expensive paints. Bottom line, what are you comfortable using and gets you results? Personally, the best rattle can model paint is MCW. Do a google on Model Car World paint and you should find their website. The list of factory and race car finishes is pretty extensive. Color match is pretty much spot on, a couple of colors have some serious issues, but not many. For F-cars, go with the Guards Red as it is fairly close to Rosso Corsa. It is NOT close for the F1 cars. For that I would use Tamiya colors. Closer, but still not spot on.

Also, practice, practice, practice. If it is airbrush or rattle can, the only way to get a good finish. Good luck!

 

As a general rule, yes, use a spray whenever possible. Depending on the colour you want go to an auto accessory store/paint factors and either choose a colour off the shelf or ask them to mix the colour you want and put it into an aerosol can. Use the appropriate undercoat, and also auto spray colours for the usual 'matt black', 'silver', and other interior colours. These all dry quickly and can be cut and buffed just like a normal car for a top quality finish.

One thing people do with their first experience of spraying colour is to apply to little paint. It is a balancing act between applying to much and getting runs and a smooth silky coat. But just full one coat of paint is when you have applied enough paint to form a self levelling surface, and not just apply enough to colour the surface. And you should go for at least five or six full coats as they will dry down an awful lot.

 

You can also go to an Auto paint shop and pick a color and they will put it in a spray can for you. (most of the bigger shops to that)

 

Something that is fairly easy to get and gives GREAT results is Tamiya spray can lacquers. Most good hobby shops will have them. I've got cars that are so shiny, you can read the reflection of the writing on a light bulb. You will need a polishing kit like this one:

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=80939

You will also need to get some Novus plastic polish. Get #1 and #2. Use #2 first.

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82456

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82455

The paint is only as good as the prep below it. Once you get the body nice and smooth (you can use the polishing kit for that too), lay on some Tamiya primer and follow with your color coats and clear. Wait at least 15min between coats. Give it a couple of weeks to cure, then polish it.

 

It depends, but tell them you need a sample can or a small spray can. Try calling one of the bigger shops in your town chances are they have the equipment to do it for you.

 

I've gotten some pretty stellar results from a spray can. The key is the same as painting a full size car: preparation!

Go to any decent hobby shop that carries modeling supplies, and get paint and primer from the same manufacturer. Most shops will also have a product called Plastic Prep or something similar. You use it to wipe down the body and other parts to remove oils, mold release compounds, dust and other various crap that gets picked up to help the paint adhere and to prevent flaws. I built myself a spray booth out of plastic sheet stock held together with masking tape that I could close up during drying to prevent dust. You would not believe how much of a difference that made. Lay the paint down in several light coats to prevent runs. I used a buffing compound made specifically for models that really made them shine, I can't remember the name of it, but any good hobby store should have something similar. Unfortunately I no longer have the cars that I painted this way, they got trashed in a move a few years ago, but trust me when I say this technique got results that rivaled most prebuilt diecasts.


EDIT: I didn't see Lee in Texas's post above, but I'll just use this to say I second that!!

 

+1 I also use denatured alcohol on styrene with no issues. For metal or resin in worst cases I've used MEK to get the oil off. For dust issues, anything and everything including taking a water bottle and misting the area to keep dust from flying up. Blue Magic is probably the best polishing compound out there and Final Touch for waxing. Most shops have those items.

Also +1 on Tamiya paints.

 

Personally I always use the Tamiya spray cans and usually get great results. As everyone has always said be sure to prepare the surface thoroughly before painting. After it's dried and cured for a couple of weeks go at it with a polishing kit. IMO if you do it correctly a well painted plastic kit will always look better than any die cast.

 

Some NAPA's do it

If you go to Autozone or Discount/Advance they have a great product I use on all of my resin, metal and plastics by Dupli-Color "Primer Sealer" DAP 1699. Get the grey, shake well and on plastic coat both sides of the part to avoid warpage. Two hours later wet sand lightly if needed and put Tamiya paints, Auto laquers...whatever, for the color coat. Just be warned...if it's humid in the space the paint may "ghost". Do it in a cool, dry vented area.