Speciale VDA Display

Nope... nothing "wrong". Mine works exactly the same... engine and brakes turn green first. My guess is that the pads are held "close" to the discs during warm-up, with just enough friction to warm them up to operating temperature. In my Formula Atlantic, it would have been the same thing as dragging the brakes slightly on the pace lap to get them up to temps.

That's just my guess, I was going to ask the dealer the same question.

Cheers !

 

To be honest, I never use that display... It just shows you the info you get also via the dials and TPMS. Maybe it's to impress people how highly sophisticated the car is (which is actually true - but the car speaks for itself imo).
But you do have a problem in the TPMS - let your dealer check it.

 

From the dealer:

The tires take longer to warm up to operating temperature - longer than the brakes (which are pretty much instant) and the engine. Thats the reason. Primarily used prior to tracking the car.

 

Perfectly normal. The engine and brakes will reach operating temperature pretty quickly.

The tires will take longer, and on a cool day the tires may never reach operating temperature. Generally, the rear tires will reach operating temperature on the VDA before the fronts because the fronts have a higher specified operating temperature. Please keep in mind that the traction control system "assumes" that the tires have reached operating temperature. It is pretty easy to spin the rear tires before they reach operating temperature with the manettino on Race, even though traction control is engaged in the Race setting.

 

Yep my Italia does exactly the same thing, I've wondered myself to be honest! 15 minutes down the motorway at 70-80mph gets the tyres green

 

Track day, my tires took 5-8 laps to warm up, each lap taking 1:45.

That's about 1/3 of the session taken up with warmups.

It was a cold day to be fair.

 

Make sure your tires are inflated to proper pressure in the morning when the tires are cold. TPMS will not reset if there is more than one pound differnce. I fill up my spider to 31 psi but tpms shows 26 when the tires are cold. After i drive a few miles (5-10) depending on how cold the roads are the pressure shows 30-31 when they are warm.

Reset the TPMS when tires are cold before you leave the garage. My experience is that you must drive the car a few minutes before the TPMS resets. I had a devil of a time getting the TPMS to work properly until i did this.

The brakes warm up fast unless its really cold outside. Race mode will warm the brakes faster as the calipers are closer and hold the heat in better. The engine and transmission warm up in 1-2 miles. I do not rev the engine over 4k rpm until the engine is fully warm.

If you look at the gauges the oil and water temps rise almost in unison. This is good to know as oil temp is more important in my mind.

Best

 

the purpose of the brake pad monitors is to inform you when your brakes are over temp on track days. They don't need to warm up, they just can't get over heated.

 

A few thoughts

Re the VDA, i treat it as "informational", particularly if I'm driving/starting out on a cold day.

I've never asked, and candidly don't think there is an official answer, but the idea is to keep people from hammering the car when it's not warm; and also the opposite, hammering it when it's too hot. The Tires page I've found to be accurate about pressures and temps more or less. There are specific overheat alarms you'll get (eg. Slow Down-type warnings) if you run things a bit hot...

For the engine, if you live in SoCalif your ambient temps are warmer than let's say a January day in Connecticut, so your engine warms up a bit more quickly. I tend not to get in it at all below 175 as a target temp.

For tires, presuming you have correct initial settings, they can take time to build heat; if you are cruising, a bit longer for sure.

For the brakes, a carbon/ceramic system relies on heat as a key part of the braking effect (friction generates heat). CCM (PCCB, etc etc) are made both to resist high temperature fade, but also operate reliably at higher temperatures. The "long wear" attribute is also nice. In reality, on a street car, these brakes are detuned a bit (while still being hyper good) by using pads that work effectively at lower temperatures. Ergo, your brakes can be "in the zone" already at startup. BTW this is also a constant source of the "please bed your brakes" debate (mostly on Fchat).

In use, the CCM's require heat to build (quickly) - essentially a few rotations under pressure to generate heat which helps them work, but which is also dissipated quickly (i.e. resist fade). On the race car, we use different, much higher-temp range pads, and when they are cold, you need to be careful as they will not want to help you stop. Same principle. Poorly bedded pads (vs. properly bedded) are night-and-day different in braking action and particularly that "initial bite"

Different settings (eg, sport vs. race) do not change things. 458's have"Pre-Fill", which is where the car THINKS you are about to brake (i.e. sustained throttle and then a lift), and pressurizes the brake system to move the pads out a bit, so they are "ready to go". Again, using a racing example, you'll see drivers "tap the brake" to either confirm braking pressure or to reset the pads after going over curbs to make sure the pistons are not knocked back. Pre-Fill sort of does that for you automatically.

Different settings use different ABS, TCS and ESC "maps", but the car does not "self-warm" the brakes for you. (the software in these cars is amazingly advanced).

Last, re TPMS, 1) make sure you are using a quality gauge and setting accurate cold pressures 2) activate TPMS calibration and 3) drive for at least 10 mins. During this period, you should and will get a TPMS warning icon that should go out, and the system is calibrated.

If it doesn't, double check your pressures, and repeat. If still not working, you might have a bad TPMS sensor; the system is looking and waiting to hear back from 4 (or 5, if you have the spare tire) sensors and if it doesn't hear anything, it nukes the calibration. (I had a TPMS sensor go bad after 15 months in the FF).

Hope this helps.

 

Had the same issue with my speciale TPMS when my car first arrived.
The TPMS sensors are put to sleep for shipping, by over filling the tire pressure to 48 psi. This is done to help maintain battery life in each sensor. If the sensor do not enter calibration mode, simply over fill your tire pressures to 48 psi again; drive a short distance (1 to 2 km); and lower your tire pressures back to the factory recommended pressures.
Once complete, attempt the calibration procedure again and all should be well.

 

What's all this noise about "break in?" My dealer told me there wasn't one - drive it like you stole it was their exact words...

 

I have a pretty good relationship with the head mechanic at my Ferrari dealership. He gave me the lowdown on a number of Ferrari quirks!

 

Looking forward to it!

 

Glad it worked!!

 

i just read this in the safety section of the manual (and also the 'belt tensioners' - way cool). never even thought about it until i saw it. and i thought it slowed when i took my foot off the brake because of the high compression ratio. actually i still think it's mostly compression slowing with no throttle, but it's still amazing:

"FBP - Ferrari Brake Prefill
Brake design parameters provide a set distance between the
brake pads and discs (the “air gap”): as soon as the brake pedal is pressed, the presence of the air gap leads to a slight delay in brake response.
The FBP (Ferrari Brake Prefill) system eliminates the air gap by applying slight pressure to the braking system as soon as the accelerator pedal is released just before braking. This results in more immediate brake response and reduces braking distance during emergency braking thereby improving safety."