Sometimes a Breaker Bar is Just Not Long Enough

Do you have a Snap-on part number for that...LOL!

 

Wholy Cow!!!

That is one big break bar, with one big cheater bar on the end of it. The bolts holding the cv joints to the axles in my 348 need a similar approach, but not quite that long a cheater bar.

Speaking of center nuts not wanting to come off. Didn't the early Testarossa's exhibit the same problem?

 

HOLY CRAP!!

 

You mean a 'Snap-off' part #, right?

 

Really, this thread is just about saying he has a bigger bar than everyone else.

All the best,
Andrew.

PS:
What do you mean "dissimilar metals issue"?

 

LOL, +1

 

Do they allow something like Klein Tools Hi Temp Anti-sieze???

 

That and some TIG welding makes for excellent strength to prevent unnecessary tire changes.


...cutting torch!

 

I used to work railroad trains, but overloading a breaker bar with that much additional leverage is ASKING for something bad to happen, in proximity to your Enzo bodywork/window....

Jus' sayin.........

 

That's some breaker bar.

 

Or: "So, Archimedes, where exactly do I stand?"

 

What about correct torque?

 

Too bad they couldn't have used compatible materials.

 

what materials are used?

I'm assuming it's a cost/weight issue.

 

all im saying is torque multiplier. best tool i ever bought.

 

i'm in the same boat. working on a type 34 ghia. trying break the rear wheel nut loose too. drivers side was normally tough but broke loose using my 1/2" bar and a 4' cheater pipe. the right side is the recalcitrant bugger. so far i've snapped two breaker bars. both failing with a bag and a spark. tried a 3/4 drive impact gun to no avail. heated the swine with a torch and got on it with a 3/4 drive breaker bar and the 4' pipe. as i was pushing i heard a squeak, "ah, it's coming," i thought. no such luck. the wheel was turning. even though the car is on the ground and the tire is chocked both fore and aft. plan to get medieval on the sucker with the die grinder. wasted four hours on a $6 nut.

 

Ok I really dont know , but could the other side be a reverse thread as in the early Chryslers.

 

It's got to be galled. I've seen it on a race car that had an engine seize, the nut was so tight it needed to be cut off. Drilled through in several places actually which weakened it enough to be removed. Good luck.
A tiny bit of anti seize paste goes a long way.

 

Can you elaborate on this?

 

amazing this hasn't been pointed out already...

how many Enzo owners wrench their own cars?

very cool.

 

So what non-compatible metals are in the hub of an Enzo?

 

That's all I was saying....

 

Two schools of thought with the old school center lock nuts (without lock plates) and lubricants.

Make it too slippery and under extreme braking or from heat generated wheel expansion they will over tighten.

Any lubricant on the seat has the chance to leave a film between the nut and the wheel which could work out in a dynamic situation and leave the nut loose.

Why Ferrari decided to leave the F50 dry is beyond me, those have a gauling problem when torqued dry which then results in condition 2. I suspect they were concerned with the 'some is good, more is better' crowd and decided to err on the side of caution. Personally I spray wd40 on a rag and wipe the nut seat before install, the only way I have been able to get a smooth torque.

The old CanAm cars had to go on tight as they had so much more power than braking forces. When the old reliable 3/4 doesnt work on a nitrogen tank.... the big boy comes out. Either the nut comes off or the hub twists off... one or the other but it sure can muck up a nice nut if it doesnt come off easily.

Your thoughts Ali?
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