Slow Window Fix for less than $30.00

If you do have the later switches then you could
1) disconnect Pin3 from the switch,
2) disconnect the green cables from the switch
3) connect the green cables to the black-box motor outputs
2) connect pin 1 and 5 from the switch to FWD end REV input
4) find proper ground and +12v to feed the black-box

This being said this "could" work on later 400i switches, but not on the type of switch shown in your diagram (same switch as in the 365, without white arrow on the top). In these switches the ground is not released in the OFF position.

I've illustrated in red all the combinations that are not compliant with the blackbox specifications (the module might tolerate these though?).

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Keep us updated (you should use smaller 10A fuse during the trial period...)

 

Finally package from China has arrived...... Kind of late but I will give it a try.... Everything is apart so might as well... Stay tuned!!!

 

BINGO!!!! Problem solved in less than 10 minutes. Relay module is working. The most simple thing that I have do the car so far!!! Removed the 2 wires from the switch leading to the motor and connected them to to the module M1 & M2. Connect the 2 wires from the module green and blue to the place that you removed the wires leading to the motor. Connect the 2 grounds to the existing grounds on the switch. Disconnect the power wire from the fuse block at the switch and connect it to the module. job done!!!!
PS excuse my mess.... My whole wiring harness is getting replaced.
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tag

 

If you decide to go with the fix, make sure that you order the 12V relay module as others are available and get the medium size connectors for the window switch. (this is what they use) Other than that it's a 10 minute install. No splicing or wire cutting if you use the proper connectors. You can reverse the procedure in less then 5 minutes.

 

Always amazed at this thread and what lengths people will go to to fix this problem. But why is there a problem. Here is a real time video of the up/down in my 85 GTB with completely original wiring and fuse bloc. Took the motors apart and cleaned out the old stiffened grease.Maybe because it's a GTB the problem isn't there?

 

John, It's not all about the speed of the window... It's saving the switch itself also. Heavy load is going through it without a relay, causing potential damage.

 

this would be terrific! My 85 QV has had the slow Window syndrome for the last eight years and haven’t made time to address it. Pulled the window motors from my old 84 GTB QV, removed the old grease and checked the connections but whole process didn’t seem to help at all. Been dragging my feet on my current 308. Would you by chance have a link to the modules you purchased? I am unfortunately pretty mentally challenged when it comes to electrical such as this.

 

What ever, 35 years of ownership, 33k miles and I've never had the problems people talk about here. I think it's more about who maintained the cars over the years.

I've never had starting problems, idle problems, emissions problems, window problems, over heating problems, no switch problems. Car is 100% as it left the factory except I soldered the terminals on the OE fuse blocks. The contacts in the switches aren't any different than those in the relays. The switches are typically rated 12V/20A.

The argument I've heard for window problems are that the grounds are bad, the wires are to thing gauge, that the grease hardens. The grease does harden. The rest is??????

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Kim, I got them directly from the supplier. Expect to get them in 4 weeks from China.
https://czh-labs.com/products/12v-10amp-forward-and-reverse-relay-module-for-motor-linear-actuator-reversing-relay-module

 

Happy to hear that you had no issues with your vehicle and hope that you never do!!. I'm not convinced sending high loads to devices without a relay is a good practice. Just my opinion

 

Very big thank you Tommy! Will get them ordered today. Delivery time is not an issue as I have plenty of projects around the house.

Tried the link but non’t let me open items or even create a username or password.

 

No worries. Modules are listed on eBay and will get them ordered from there. Thanks again

 

I just saw them on Amazon as well. They have them in stock now. When I was looking for them they were on B/O.

 

While I understand, consider that the window fuses are 16A. So the switches are well within spec. Additionally, putting a relay in line with the motor doesn't change the load. If the window works better it isn't because of the relay. It's the associated old wiring, bad grounds, hard grease, or something else causing a loss of power to the motor. Since I have had no problem other than hard grease and the car is original, I just can't see how these problems are related to anything buy low voltage to the motors through some fault that develops over time if not attended to. It seems to me that these fast window fixes just circumvent the actually problem. Looking at post 1 of these thread, even with the doors open the up and down times after the fix are still about twice as long as what my car takes.

As I said, perhaps there it something with the way the GTS windows are tracked. In a GTB the windows have a full frame so perhaps don't bind in the tracks as much.

 

Pretty certain it has nothing to do with GTB/GTS variations. Could make a sandwich and eat it in the time it took my 84 GTB windows to close back up. Cleaned out old grease and replaced with white lithium grease. Added an extra ground wire from the door hinge area connecting the door itself. Checked window operation in the track with cables removed and put dry graphite grease in the channels. Checked all contacts and grounding points. Really had little effect. Can only conclude that you got a really great GTB.

 

John, I do agree with you about maintenance, old wiring bad grounds, grease. While rewiring my vehicle I came across many wires that the coper was in very poor condition which translates to high resistance. Even though the switch might be rated to handle the load of the window motor, it may not be a able able to handle the high resistance from the items described, therefore premature failure of the switch is imminent. Not everyone is capable of rewiring the vehicle or replace bad lines, if you can protect the circuit and switch by placing a relay module, I'm all for it. Not sure also about the condition of the switches internally after all these years. I have not taken one apart..

 

It's all good if it works for you. ut to be clear, if the resistance of the circuit increase for any reason the current through the switch will drop. The load(current) increases when the motor can not turn at the correct speed. That has the effect of lowering the circuit resistance and drawing greater current. Still, unless the fuse blows it would be well below the rating of the switch.

I still wonder why, after the fix from post #1, the windows are still operate only about 1/2 as fast as mine, at best.

 

Well, The forward/reverse modules showed up this week so I was able to spend a few days contemplating module placement, adding additional wire to modules and tracking down smaller electrical spade fittings to mate with ones in the car, also re-reading posts here so not to get this wrong. Sorry to Report that these added no help (with my car anyway) to window travel speed. Had to enlist the help of my wife to push the switch while I pulled upward on the passenger side window to get it to close. BUT in fairness, I would say that pulling the window motors on my QV, digging the old grease out of them should be the first step. Anyone contemplating doing this might have a better outcome than I. Found it super easy to get to the wiring of the switches by simply removing the ashtray so it wasn’t hard at all. Added about 10 inches of wire to each wire on the module and decided they would fit perfectly underneath the ashtray and connections could be made very easily. Didn’t have to cut any wiring and to return to stock took me less than 10 minutes to completely reverse the situation. Going to pull the entire interior this summer and have it refurbished so once that happens I will tackle the window motors in the doors and possibly give these modules a second try.

 

If your motors are equipped with circuit breaker, maybe you should also consider to replace these. They are normally supposed to prevent the motor from overheating. When they (partially) fail they can significantly raise the resistance of the system.

 

did not know this, thank you. Will definitely look into that also. Since the day I purchased this 308 Euro QV windows have not traveled more than 3 inches in each direction.

 

Is the same one? Looks the same the print on each are different.

https://www.amazon.ca/Electronics-Salon-Voltage-Disconnect-Protect-Prolong/dp/B06W9JXSLY/ref=mp_s_a_1_10_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=czh+relay+module&qid=1625142459&sr=8-10-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyV1hBV00yRUZTSkhaJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzgyNTMyM1Y4TlhSVUU4OVpWJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3ODU2MjIzNUFNRVVGWEdYT0Y4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

 

Disregard previous post I found the correct one:

https://www.amazon.ca/Forward-Reverse-Module-Actuator-Reversing/dp/B0896ZTD9L/ref=mp_s_a_1_32?dchild=1&keywords=czh+relay+module&qid=1625142724&sr=8-32

 

**** the switch........remove the hardened grease first.

 

Replacing the switch lubricant is not an easy task.

I did it on the dual mirror switch which is easy as the switch case is screwed. The dielectric grease had become a thick brownish paste. Replacing this grease made the switch more reliable.

My windows switch can ot be opened as easily. I suspect they are just full of crude but I am afraid of destroying the switch.

Motor grease is a no brainer easier, but my grease was not horrendous.