Shorten exhaust cam.

Yes, integrate the factory seal. There's allot of oil movement going on in the valve train and it'll fill that cavity up right quick. Not that it would damage the sensor persay, depends on the sensor really. But you'll be introducing lots more leak points and the mess when you have to check the sensor and it's setup... Not worth the hassle.

 

No seal means oil in the cover.....which doesn't really matter as long as you are not using an optical sensor. I have my sensor in oil on the v12 and its happy.

 

On my QV setup I used 1 of the 2 OEM crank pickups on the bellhousing. Stock there are 2 pins on the back of the flywheel, but its pretty easy to add 33 more to make a 36-1 pattern. That worked out really well and I did a similar setup for a couple of 308 owners. On the cam I had a ford distributor pickup which was small enough to fit in inside the stock distributor cap mount with a little cover over it. So VR on both crank and cam.

On the V12 I have hall on both the crank and cam. I use cherry brand industrial sensors, they are very accurate compared to most cheaper hall sensors but still easy to adapt to almost anything. I originally planned VR but had trouble with both, mostly because of the way I built trigger wheels nd a switch the hall sorted out my issues without me needing to remake anything. I do put sealant on the threads of the cam sensor since there is oil spraying around as I don't use a seal on the cam.

 

Always drop in a resistor, helps reduce the SNR aka signal to noise ratio.

 

Yes 1k and hooked to the 5v sensor supply.

 

Surely you mean increase the SNR. Decreasing SNR means increasing the noise.

 

A, yup... My goof.

 

...and I apologize for calling you "surely".

 

Well....if you've wired it to another power source through another relay, you don't need the originals. I'd just pull the relays in question and make sure everything still has power, it so you're good.

 

Up the right side of the tank, at least that is where mine is.

 

Yes. original top pic, new bottom pic
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I'm fitting a set of 402 cams at the moment. They do not have index marks. I contacted Raf at Catcams, he said set them up at the TDC lifts on the data sheet, 3.65mm inlet & 3.1 exhaust.

 

How unhelpful........I guess you do bank 1-4 with the stock cams in 5-8#1 TDC, and then bring #5 to TDC and install that bank?....or you'll smash stuff.....

 

Here are the directions from Catcams: http://www.catcams.co.uk/acatalog/Cam_Timing.html

 

again, not very helpful. It will work fine on a single cam 4 cyl, is a little trickier on a 2 cam 4 cyl. Luckily the 308 has 2 separate timing belts (which I was forgetting in my last post)....on something like a 348 or my 400i engine with a single chain you'd need to have the oem cam in the other bank to install the chain

 

It should. The gap looks a little on the near side but it should be ok. Do you have any way to measure the sensor output? When I'm doing something new I like to hook the sensor to a scope and spin the trigger and see what I have BEFORE I put it on the engine. If you have a clean signal on the scope the M800 or any other ECU will have no issue reading it.

 

Here's the direct link...
https://switches-sensors.zf.com/us/product/speed-sensor-gs1005-1007/

 

If you don't have a scope, a fluke meter that can read rpm, dwell etc.. highly recommended. Very useful in doing harness and electrical work. Esp trouble shooting after install.

https://www.fluke.com/en-us/product/electrical-testing/digital-multimeters/fluke-88v

That's one of my go-to meters when not working at the bench.