Shell Rotella T synthetic 5w-40 after two weeks

Certainly not I!

Interesting post, to say the least... I'll sure to follow this one for a while.

 

Good to hear. Rotella T is indeed a very good performance engine lubricant. I used to work for Shell (and PQS) in various capacities including their technical motorsport programs i.e. specialty lubricants and fuel, etc. Even some boat racers and alcohol drag racers loved Rotella. It would be interesting to compare Rotella to the current QS synthetics. I'm looking forward to your results from the labs.

 

So since this is Rotella does that mean it has the same good high detergent properties as their 15W-40 diesel oil? This could be a dream come true for my Range Rover as those V8s create a ton of sludge even with overly-diligent maintenance and they happen to recommend a 5W-40 weight (which I use - but in German made Pentosin synthetic form). My two RRs engines are pretty clean inside but anything can always help!!

Cheers;
Aaron
'82 GTSi

 

good feedback, i am planning myself to use Mobil 1 15/50 syn in my 76.....i have used it in the tr with excellent results,no usage, no sweepage....im hoping for the same in the 308.

Any real difference between the Shell and Mobil 1 ?

 

I surprised too! Where was the leak originating from before the oil change? Is it possible that new crush washers and properly torqued oil filted has solved the leak instead of the oil itself? If AEHaas comes into this forum, he'd likely have some great data on the Rotella to share about its performance.

 

Is this the "rotella" I've heard still has zinc in it for our older engines? If so, I will change over for the Ferrari and the Triumph.

 

I'm not sure... and that's why AEHaas would be helpful. There are a ton of threads around Google about zinc levels in Rotella, but I try to avoid quoting anonymous internet sources as 'fact'. AEHaas has done specific research in this area, and I trust his input more than most jokers around the 'net.

 

As soon that you change oil from mineral to “synthetic” wich so much more detergents small leaks are very common in old engines! I would come back to mineral rotella t4

 

i dunno why a use synthetic oil in old Ferrari same a with old vintage classic moto bikes they cause leaks if the motor is a brand new rebuilt its ok thats my experience also synthet oil sometimes burns off in not to many miles i like valvoline 20/50 miner oil racing with zinc in the 328 i use motul full syn in 2 new Ducatis, its 19 per qort ! full syn oil comes from Bologna new

 

holy resurrected thread, batman....

 

Ferraridoc is this the same oil you used?

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Why would one choose to use diesel oil...?

 

This can be use in any diesel or gas car!!! Don’t be fool by those companies!

 

I have been use this oil in sport cars, Maserati, Porsche, GTI, Audi S3 and RS4 also motorcycles CBR 1000 and Yamaha R6 and R1 no issues at all!!

 

Automotive combustion engines basically have the same internals, and hence same wear surfaces, no matter what fuel is used. I assume it is blended and has additives that Shell believes are helpful for diesel engines (high temps and particulate contamination maybe?) but that does not preclude it from being used in engines that use other fuels. I would think the 5W40 rating is more critical than anything else but others probably have more knowledge on oil.

 

So, I shouldn't trust the people that make the oil, nor the other people that test and certify the oil....

....but I should trust you without hesitation, because you've not had an issue with CJ oil. Even though SN oil is readily available.

That is the key point: the fuel is different. The way the fuel is combusted is also different.

Read for yourself.

Others such as the API. I mean - seriously - if we aren't going to trust that the service category is important, why would we trust that the weight rating means anything either?

 

So this was really a bait question?

 

How so ?

FYI I used to use synthetic 15/50 Mobil 1 in my 308 and it always smoked. I went back to 20/50 and a few oil changes later on the original Dino oil and the smoking has now stopped.

Odd I tell ya - but I prefer to use what was in the manual for the car after this experiment

 

vintage cars usually are driven with cold oil as they tipically do a small short trip every now and then. I don't understand why many still put into the car the 20W-50, or a 15W-50 which are 40 years old oils that were good just at high speed on a motorway (100+ MPH). The 5W-40 or 5W-50 are much better oils that once didn't even exist. The 208-308-328 engine is a modern engine that doesn't require any extra zync or something like that. If it smokes or drinks a lot of oil, means it needs rebuiding or at least an head service (and not a different oil…).

ciao

 

yes, it still has a high concentration ! (ZINC )

 

I have used Shell Rotella T-6 for over 30 + years in everything ! ( Including my highly stressed turbo Saab engines ) and believe I will use it in my 08' F430 ( will send a sample to Blackstone labs as well ) a petroleum engineer said he thought it was the best oil in the world! it is readily available and even rather inexpensive too! less than $20 a gallon at wal-mart! Yes, they did have to reformulate it slightly when they made it suitable for auto use as well, not just diesel but it still has a high concentration of zinc, et al . interestingly Blackstone labs say just about any good synthetic w / a good additive package will do as they all have to meet standards ..............and DO ! so it seems the typical arguing about which brand on an oil thread is pointless! LOL Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Shell also makes the same T6 oil in a 5W30 weight with lower levels of phosphorous which allows the oil to meet the API SN (for gasoline engines) standard. The higher level of phosphorous in the 5W40 prevent it from meeting the SN standard because the light level of phosphorous is bad for catalytic converters. The SN standard went into effect towards the end of 2017. Prior to that T6 was API SM approved for gas engines.