348 Scissor Lift

I've never used one of these before, but which one of their scissor lifts did you buy?

 

I have one and I love it but you do have to have a couple of 2x10 boards on the left and right for a little extra height or it will scrape the bottom of your car as you drive over it. You position it directly under your car and then use the movable arms to reach your Jack points.

 

Sorry forgot to mention on the front I put rubber padding on the metal arms and just let it lift it from the frame of the car

 

Tony, I also use a BendPak scissor lift, (Quick Jack BL5000-SLX), although I use it on an F355, lift points are equal to a 348. After vehicle lift point measurements I found that it was necessary to place the lifts 180 degrees in the opposite direction from instructions for proper rubber block placement on the lift points. (When raised, the car moves in the forward direction). I contacted BendPak to confirm safety prior to use and also found that other users place the jacks in this manner. I hope the photos help. I found that placing the jacks in this manner requires no initial lifting of the vehicle prior to placing the jacks under the lift points.

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May not be as simple using it on a 348. The 348 has its front jacking points at similar location as the 355 but has no rear jacking points.

 

Exactly. for the 348 use the rear cross bar. Fairly new Quick jack item.

 

I have a Danmar scissor lift for my F355 that looks identical to this Bendpack:
https://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/mid-rise-scissor-lifts/md-6xp/
I have had it for about 4 years and the best piece of advice I could give you is to spend the money on Raceramps RR-CLR-4
https://www.raceramps.com/ramps/p/rr-clr-4/
I refused to spend the money for a few years, spent a ton of time making crappy wood ramps and eventually came to the realization it was all a huge waste of time and effort. The RaceRamps are GOLD when you have a scissor lift. Convenience and ease of use is worth it all day long now. I feel stupid for not just buying them right away. They can be had for around $700 new if you look long enough. Show up used on once in a while.

 

Generally speaking it doesn't matter. Depends what you are looking for. The stationary end has a wider footprint so it will be a bit more stable. If you are loading something extra heavy I would put the heavier side to that end. Doesn't matter for an F355.
I used this to drop my motor so I wanted maximum working room when the lift is up. I put the roller end toward the motor so the Lift structure moves further away from the motor (and gives me more floor space) the higher I lift the car.
Its rated for 6000lbs. Don't overthink it. Make sure the floor is level with no debris. Load it up and lift it.
I cut some 1x1 wood squares to put in the jacking points so that the steel channel part doesn't cut into my lift urethane jacking pads.

 

I would also recommend getting some quick disconnect couplings and putting one pair on the lift cylinder and another pair on the power unit.
I also added a 12' extension hose to mine and hung the power unit on the wall.
You want hydraulic type like used for construction dozers and such, bobcat, ect. Around 6000psi is more then enough.
https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Connect-Pioneer-Couplers-Thread/dp/B078SY8NST/ref=sr_1_20?dchild=1&keywords=1/4"+npt+hydraulic+quick+disconnect&qid=1624844167&sr=8-20
The mobile stand and ergonomics were designed by a 4yr old. Horrendous trying to move that thing around. Easy to hurt ones back.
Today i use a floor jack to lift the the eyelet end and move it around that way. The stand is in a scrap pile where it belongs.

 

That’s useful to see thanks. Been thinking about these for a bit; but wasn’t convinced on the 500mm lift height. I’ve a local company that makes similar; but a lot stronger for 1m lift height which I think I will go with; if I ever save the pennies!

 

My quick jack goes to 22 inches and I can get it up another 3-5 if I wanted.

 

Its rated for almost twice what your car weighs. Its not going to tip.

I understand your concern. Its valid if the overhang is exaggerated but the lift wont tip/rotate even if the CG of the car is past the lift floor contact point. If it moves way, past that point, sure. Would any BendPack lifting arm configuration permit that. Highly doubt that.
Remember that the front mass of the lift (cylinders.frame) would need to lift off the floor for the entire thing to tip back. Thats another 400-800lbs of scissor lift.'
I dont remember by mechanical classes. Maybe a ME professional can chime in.

 

I put sealant on all the NPT connectors. Otherwise they will leak. Nothing on the flare fittings obviously.
Over the years I have found most typical sealants to be garbage.
This stuff works and this is what I used:
Permatex® Pneumatic/Hydraulic Sealant – Permatex
Amazon.com: Permatex 54540 Pneumatic and Hydraulic Sealant - 1.22 oz.: Automotive
Loctite has a similar product.