Anyone use Royal Purple oil in their cars? Thanks.
I used it in my 03 Dodge 1500,for the cost I thought Mobil 1 is just as good.Mobil 1 is used in my 308.
Royal Purple is designed by the chemist that formulated Mobil 1, IIRC... I run it (I'm sponsored actually) and have never had any problems, although I haven't gone thru the analysis that many have on this site.. So I use the engine lubricant, the normal gear oil (75 -90W, again from memory) and the Purple Ice coolant treatment for disimilar metal anti corrosion.... ...and the shirts, hats and driver's suit patches.
I have nothing against Royal Purple motor oil, but I do not put any oil in my F355 that does not specify its HTHS number (and RP does not divuldge this number).
Ali Hass tried to get some technical information from Royal Purple about their oil but they were not very revealing so he chose not to use it.
I use it and love it. Switched from Redline. The engine runs smooth and the oil seems to hold up to high revs for extended times. I have used RP in other cars, both street and race and never had an issue. I still use Redline Superlite Shockproof in the gearbox however. --Mike
I'll drive out to Porter Texas and BEAT it out of them......LOL! It's a bedroom community of Houston. I guess they are sensitive to someone replicating the chemistry...They make some drag racing blends that look like sewing machine oil, I stick with the 20-50W in my Old Girls..
For mine the BEST oil for Ferrari\'s and Italian machinery is the only one its engineered with, stand up and be counted the Mighty : AGIP Sint 2000! BEST engine oil in the world, End-Of-Story! Cheers
With the analysis tools chemists of today have, it more like they can read it right out of the bottle. Besides, you can get this number from any of the oil analysis firms that look at new/used motor oils. Not giving it out is just foolish.
Hey' Same here.... Well actually I switched form RP to Redline only because it was the only available oil at this particular workshop so had no choice. I usually purchase the RP oils from the local Royal Purple outlet in advance but had been too busy with work to make the dash up and down. I'll be switching to RP on the next oil change... Or maybe sooner as I just feel like doing so!
Mmm...Coming out from someone with just 4 posts, with due respect, actually makes me want to avoid this particular product at all cost... Maybe you can enlighten us with your trial on the mentioned product? Keen to know about this agip as I have never used/tried it on any of my vehicles so you know. Cheers.
SINT 2000 is the semi-synthetic oil Ferrari used to specify for their street cars (before Shell sponsorship). It can be ordered out of Pennsylvania, but I'm told that the Sint made in the US isn't exactly the same as the Euro version. I still use it in the Italians, because I bought a couple of cases a while back. The same Sint 2000 was specified for both my 328 and my Alfa Spider. (Over the years, I had a '71 Fiat, several '70s and '80s Alfas, and the '88 328, and they all specified the same Sint 2000.) But I use fully synth oil in the turbo'd machines, for the better temperature tolerance. (Both on the high side for the turbo, and on the low side because the turbo ricers are my winter beaters.) (The EVO's warranty mandated Mo-1.) Oil formulas tend to change from time to time. Mobil in particular keeps changing their formulas, judging from the number of times they've had to recall oil. Shell oils were very well rated, a while back, and the Alfa shop used to use the old "Shell Fire and Ice" (back in the early '80s). But, again, it depends on what year the ratings were done. The only oil I've seen *consistently* highly rated are the Valvoline synths. (Not always rated "best" but usually in the top five.)
I friend of mine sent me this link of some tests that were done of various synthetic and semi-synthetic oils. Royal Purple and Valvoline both did very well. http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
Great post! Thanks for the info. I have recently been very impressed with the RP Racing 51 oil. Amazing oil. Very expensive but worth every penny. Add 502 engine oil improver and you can help reduce friction and drag. This will give you more than a few extra horses and improves torque. This link provided an excellent comparison of many of the better brands I was also impressed with Penrite 5 5W-60s results.
My mechanic, who owns a 456, used LubroMoly during my 30k this summer. Do they have a respectable HTHS number?
If I am reading (the german) data sheet correctly, it's 3.6 in 0W-40 formulation. http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/mediendb.nsf/gfx2/1360%20Synthoil%20Energy%20SAE%200W-40.pdf/$file/1360%20Synthoil%20Energy%20SAE%200W-40.pdf While adequate to oil temps up into the 260dF range, it does not appear to be track worthy where oil temps above 285 might be the norm.
I'm pretty sure I have 5w-40. Also, I won't ever take my Spider to the track. SO, it should be okay, right?
The article is utter crap. The magazine later issued a retraction. This is covered in BITOG and elsewhere several years ago.
Interesting. I hope I'm not alone when I say I've never heard of Bob is the Oil Guy. I won't doubt what you say, but since there is no search function on that forum (without being a registered user, at least) I can't look it up. I think that must be proof that there is a forum on the internet for just about anything. I guessing there might be a certain amount of repetition there... 1.6 million posts on 115795 threads... not sure that could sustain my interest that long.
Bob is the Oil Guy is a web site dedicated to allowing tribologists to communicate, much like this web site allows cognoscenti to communicate. If you want to know and understand stuff like oil BITOG is the place to do it.
That is precisely correct, I got the same information directly from the AGIP Rep here in Canada. He told me that North American synthetics are not the same as European synthetics. The AGIP I bought from him was right from Italy, still in the cardboard box. I am told that AGIP is very ordinary oil, and that there are more modern oils that are easier and cheaper to get. I was also told by a very reputable Ferrari mechanic that if not tracking or serious hard driving the AGIP Sint 2000 is okay to use. He has seen first hand the AGIP 10W60 at a 24-hour track event (I can't remember exactly what he called it) and said it was good.
