Replace Ignition Cylinder or install Push Button Start? | FerrariChat

Replace Ignition Cylinder or install Push Button Start?

Discussion in '308/328' started by Speedsterbeast, Apr 29, 2019.

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  1. Speedsterbeast

    Nov 20, 2018
    31
    Thunder Bay Ontario
    Full Name:
    Cory Zyromsky
    My keys no longer work in the ignition cylinder. Reading other posts, it looks like swapping it out is a little tedious. I realize installing a Push Start kit would be the same or more work, but I think it would be nice to have. I don't really care about keeping it original or losing resale value.

    I have 2 questions:
    Has anyone installed a push-start?
    & Where would I find an OEM Ferrari Ignition if I wanted to go that route? In North America-( Ricambi shows unavailable.)

    PS -1982 308 GTSi

    Thanks for Reading!
     
    koset likes this.
  2. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    13,379
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    What does the key not do? Is the tumbler section or is it the switching section that is bad?
     
  3. Speedsterbeast

    Nov 20, 2018
    31
    Thunder Bay Ontario
    Full Name:
    Cory Zyromsky
    Both. At first the key was hard to get to stat turning. Now once it's turned, it won't engage the starter.
     
  4. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    13,379
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    It is very likely your wiring module behind the lock tumbler that has gone bad. That module is fairly easy to change and it is still available from Gt Carparts. Do that.
     
  5. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    36,745
    Cowboy Capitol of the World
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    Brian Crall
    I am betting Mitch is correct. That fits the scenario of a broken switch, not a broken lock.

    Do not install one of the aftermarket switches. They are easy to get and less costly but are cheap, unreliable junk. Get either Bosch or SWF brand.

    I have not bought one in a long time but T Rutlands used to have both in stock.
     
    koset and dflett like this.
  6. lm2504me

    lm2504me Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 26, 2004
    1,121
    Nipomo, CA
    Full Name:
    Richard
    Once you get the new switch, be sure to install a diode to protect the contacts to the starter solenoid. I do this for my Ferrari and Alfa.
    Per John Corbain Dino 246:
    "Drove the car for another 25,000 miles and the problem came back. I pulled the switch, carefully unriveted it and found the brass starter contact badly eroded. Pulled contact, brazed some rod on contact, filed to original shape and put back together. The hollow rivets can stand 2-3 re-workings. Took that many tries to get contacts and 1-time lockout just right. Time to run an experiment. I touched the starter wire to the battery wire and admired the beautiful arc when I broke the contact. That was where the brass was going. A Flyback diode was needed. I put a silicon diode from the starter wire to ground, cathode to starter wire, and no more arc. When you break the current going to a starter solenoid, there is a huge negative spike and the energy in that spike was killing the switch. The diode catches the spike so no voltage, no arc. Just make sure the polarity is right and the diode is rated for 3 amps or more. Radio Shack is fine. I put everything back together and have run 100, 000 miles without a miss."
     
  7. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    36,745
    Cowboy Capitol of the World
    Full Name:
    Brian Crall
    I have replaced a lot of those switches. Not once for a burned contact. Sorry but this sounds like a fix for a problem that does not exist.
     
  8. lm2504me

    lm2504me Formula 3
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    Aug 26, 2004
    1,121
    Nipomo, CA
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    Richard
    I replaced two due to starter solenoid not picking up. I disassembled them and noted the destroyed contacts to the solenoid which were caused by arcing.
    They are used in my instrumentation field in some applications for contact protection of switch contacts.
    No need to be sorry, we each have our own experiences and act accordingly.
     
  9. Ehamilton

    Ehamilton F1 Rookie
    Rossa Subscribed

    Jun 13, 2010
    2,518
    Durham, NC; USA
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    Eric Hamilton
    If you're worried about the current through the ignition switch (and it's generally a good idea to minimize it - that's why people do headlight relays) it's as easy and more effective to add a relay so that the solenoid current doesn't go through the switch.
     
  10. Speedsterbeast

    Nov 20, 2018
    31
    Thunder Bay Ontario
    Full Name:
    Cory Zyromsky
    So I've got the column free, but i can't clear all the gobblyguck behind it and the ignition stock to clear the lower dash to drop it. Any suggestions on what's holding it up?
     
  11. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    13,379
    San Carlos, CA
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    Mitchell Le
    You don't need to remove the whole thing if all you are doing to to change the switching section. Push the seat back (or remove it). Lay down on your back facing up at the assembly. Reach up with a small Philip head screw driver (I use a ratcheting driver) and remove two small Philip head screws from the back of the switch after you have unplugged all the wires (take notes of where wires go). Swap out the wiring module, replace the wires. If you have the right tool, it takes less than 1 hour.
     
    murzy likes this.
  12. Speedsterbeast

    Nov 20, 2018
    31
    Thunder Bay Ontario
    Full Name:
    Cory Zyromsky
    Thanks Yelcab. But I still want to drop the column. Will removing the module allow for the clearance to drop the column?
     
  13. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    36,745
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    Brian Crall
    Then you have a problem causing excess load. Probably should fix that instead of applying bandaids.
     
  14. lm2504me

    lm2504me Formula 3
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    Aug 26, 2004
    1,121
    Nipomo, CA
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    Richard
    Oops, I was not specific on my two failures. My mistake. One was on my 32k mile 72 Dino 246 and the other was on my 66 Alfa Duetto with 100,000 km. Both had the same type of switch and same internal failure when taken apart. Contact was destroyed by arcing.
    My 78 308 only has 18k miles and I installed the diode at 16k miles. I drive it at least once a week to Cars and Coffee.
    I will see how long the switch endures. I have two German made switches on the way for spares. Bosch and SWF.
     
  15. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    36,745
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    Brian Crall
    I have looked after hundreds in the last 43 years and that is a story I never heard. Not on a Ferrari.
     
  16. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    36,745
    Cowboy Capitol of the World
    Full Name:
    Brian Crall
    So what? I see bad diagnosis every day of the week. With what most good professionals see, if we didn't see it or one of our trusted mechanic friends didn't see it, it never happened. I see more problems attributed to the wrong thing than the right thing.

    You can stop now. I will not be convinced. There is a mountain of really good, eyes on evidence.
     
  17. Speedsterbeast

    Nov 20, 2018
    31
    Thunder Bay Ontario
    Full Name:
    Cory Zyromsky
    Can you two argue on a different thread? Your not helping. Your hurting. My original questions are being watered down with every response.
    Thanks.
     

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