Anyone have any experience getting head studs off the block? I tried the obvious double nut technique, but to no avail. Applying penetrant for sure. Maybe heat the block a bit with heat gun? Small taps on the top of the stud didn't work.
Maybe one of these ... ? https://www.amazon.ca/Lisle-71200-Stud-Remover/dp/B0041ESF2G/ref=pd_sbs_263_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0041ESF2G&pd_rd_r=67368b13-481d-11e9-8b1b-b5a69bc8a492&pd_rd_w=B0Dcq&pd_rd_wg=XgSPG&pf_rd_p=5dcda75b-8643-4da3-9bb1-5c0233790500&pf_rd_r=02G5NX0YN9KQVEZRQQ65&psc=1&refRID=02G5NX0YN9KQVEZRQQ65
You need an collet type remover - Snap On makes one but they are hard to come by - I got my set from watching ebay for several months
Stahlville has the best tool snap on second Long studs I just double nut the bottom and middle use 2 wrenches with some heat to loosen up the sealant
11 x 1.0 collet for the Snap On puller has not been made in many years and nearly impossible to get. They can be a nightmare. 355 is new enough hopefully not but I have had old V12s they needed to be machined out. If you bark up the shank throw them away. I'd throw them away anyway and get ARP studs. If you can get the block up to about 300 degrees it really helps with the stuck studs. A heat gun is a waste of electricity. To heat a block it takes an oven.
So Snap On did not make the set. This is the company that makes them for Snap On: http://www.hydrameconline.com/stud__dowel_removers_and_resetters I was furtunate enough to get the 11 x 1.0 collet. It would be worth contacting them to see if they would still produce one. Or, any shop could make one pretty easily.
Are you replacing them? If so propane torch and pipe wrench work great... Double nutting sounds good...but good chance you will damage the threads...
Yes I want to keep them as they are perfect. Double nut did not even come close and like you say the threads were going to get damaged. Especially M11-1.0 threads!
Yes, that type of stud remover would be great. But good luck finding one for M11-1.0 threads. Correct?
In the end I decided to buy the PowerBuilt stud remover from Amazon. $24. The tool worked very easily, no slipping, easy to operate. As you can see from the photo the process results in a small amount of bite marks on the stem portion, leaving the threads alone. I am pleased and believe this is a great option. These studs will be able to live another day for sure! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Curious, do they use stud locker on them? Or is that a silly question considering the heat they’d see in operation?
I do not believe thread lock is used in cylinder head studs, there does not appear to be any with these from the factory.
Just regarding the threadlockers, there are high temperature types like Loctite 2422 (blue) and 2620 (red) which are good for temperatures up to 650F or 340C.
So in the end head stud removal story goes like this... I took out the first second and third stems without a problem, aside from the gigantic amount of force required. You have to be very careful and go slow! The stems are all perfect without any corrosion, pitting or wear for that matter. But after the third, I kinda stopped and asked myself why I am doing this, eventually one or more of these are going to get screwed up, most probably the aluminum threads in the block. I didn't want that! The purpose of taking out the stems was so I can prepare the block surface for the next head gasket using a large sanding block (can;t take it to the shop for obvious reasons). Of course the head already has its proper RA surface from the shop treatment we had done including ports and seats. In any case I decided that the block surface was simply stained and decided to gently clean the surface rather than get at it with a sanding block. 30 minutes of gentle massage with 400 grit and all the stains were gone. I am convinced this was the way to go. So, I gently placed the 3 stems back into the proper depth and called it done.
I understand that 400 grit is equal approximately to an RA finish of 120 so I might take that down a slight bit after finding out what the proper RA finish for these heads is. Any idea? Might say in the manual. Gotta check.
Ahhh...no they won't. You just put giant stress risers in the studs by taking them out that way. See the 3 giant nicks? You needed to use the collet remover to resuse
You violated the prescribed surface roughness for proper engineered head gasket seal. You can't use a home depot sanding block nor 400 grit paper. There is a proper method to prep a head and that isn't it. Now you are committed to not only full stud removal but new studs and proper surface treatment from a good machine shop if you want the performance of parts Ferrari engineered.
If all he did was lightly scuff the head deck with 400, he didn't (likely) remove flatness from the deck. No, it's probably not ruined.
The finishes that various grits produce is as follows (USA RA, in µ.inch): #220 grit 38 to 45 RA #280 grit 18 to 25 RA #400 grit 10 to 15 RA #600 grit 5 to 10 RA window glass 3 to 4 RA As to what RA is required for the surfaces (aluminium heads and blocks), it is in the range of 30-60 RA (50-60 preferred) for composite gaskets and 10-15 RA for MLS gaskets. With regard to the dents on the head studs, as Bob said, I would be somewhat concerned as they will cause some stress concentration on them. To what extent this will introduce the risk of the studs breaking at the dents under load, depends on what margin the stud cross section (taking into account the steel grade) has in relation to the maximum tensile stress that it is exposed to. If reused, the way of reducing the effect of the dents is to polish the areas out (not grind out), especially the spots at the ends of the "bite lines" where the tool has created deeper steps, so that there are no sharp corners.
