84 BBI I've only being doing this forever but never with Bosch FI. So how do you disconnect the power plugs from the Aux Air Valve, the valve that lets additional air in when cold. It doesn't look like the wire spring clip and the last thing I want to do is force it and break something. Thanks Barry.
Barry, isn't it like any other Bosch spring clip. Look a little closer. If your AAV is the same as on my 86 Testarossa, the connector pulls straight apart. Maybe put a little dab of lubricant on the ears first. EDoug
You mean it doesn't look something like this (just push the wire inward, then withdraw the connector): Image Unavailable, Please Login Can you post a pic if it's something else?
Steve I don't see a spring clip like that, It looks different to me. Doug mentioned it should pull straight out if it's like a testarossa but I yanked on it pretty hard and it didn't come apart. You can see from the pics it has some kind or flat metal clasp or something.. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes, that metal clasp has to either be removed or displaced somehow. Have you tried any gentle prying to see if if can come off or if it has ends?
Yeah Steve I tried every way I could think of.I used a jeweler screwdriver to try and pry it. There's no legs or ends or anything like that and there's no place to grab hold of it that I can see with a pair of pliers to pull it out. so I'll just keep working at it. Never quite see anything like it and can't find any reference to it anywhere
You can hold the plug and wiggle it left/right and it usually comes off without pulling the clip. You can use moderate force. Alternatively, you can open the two sides of the clip from the bottom. push left and right respectively, then push the clip upwards - careful not to lose the clip.
I'll try that. It would probably be easier if I pulled the AAV(2) first so I could see what I'm doing. The reason I'm doing this is the seemingly lack of air increase when starting ice cold. When I bought the car a couple of weeks ago they had the idle set pretty high, around 1500 hot. If I adjust it down to 1K or so with the big air bleed screws it runs great when hot, however, when starting it ice cold it dies immediately after starting unless I play with the gas until it warms up. I had to increase the air bleed to be able to start it in any reasonable fashion. Since the AAV valves are normally open and close with temp increase it seems like a logical place to start. I think the cold start injectors are working as it doesn't hesitate when given throttle when cold.
It looks very similar to a typical quick release EV1 connector, and it's actually interchangeable, but this is the "low profile" variant. Here's a screenshot. If you push one end of the clip outward, you can stick a thin screw driver between to prevent the metal clip from snapping back into place. Then just angle the connector and pull back. You shouldn't need to do both sides (actually, that increases the chances of it flying off – never to be found again). Image Unavailable, Please Login
Barry, that "metal clasp" as you call it in your pic is the spring clip. Now look close at it and you will see that the wire captures the plastic ear on each side. If you had a tiny dab of lubricant at that interface, it would release a little easier. For years I would simply pry the clip off my Ferraris, and then pull the connectors straight apart, but I learned on my Jaguars that the spring connectors they used would easily release so I have done it that way on the Ferraris too. So, grab one side of the connector with one hand and the other side of the connector with the other hand, and pull straight apart adding a little wiggle as you do. After you release your AAV connector, pick your poison. EDoug.
There are actually two AVVs and I'm not certain that either one of them are malfunctioning but it seems to be kind of a common occurrence so I'm hoping that's all it is. This car has been federalized and I've already had a hell of a time with the wiring putting the original Pioneer stereo back in. So hopefully this is straightforward. I'm a carb guy so I have a steep learning curve.
So the clip on the plug was obvious once I had the AAV off and could see the bottom. Thanks everyone. I'm now in the process of testing it and it opens and closes Ok with 12.5 volts and 10 amps applied. If I put it in the freezer for a while it opens further. The question I have is how much air should leak through it when closed as this one leaks a bit. Not major but I am surprised at the amount. I cleaned it with Cali carb cleaner and compressed air followed by some silicone lube. I'll clean she silicone out with more carb cleaner before reinstalling it. (bad for the cats) Does engine vacuum seal it when its closed? I'll compare it to the second one.
Yes, having the air pressure at the inlet (atmospheric) greater than the air pressure at the outlet (vacuum) will help seal it, but blowing from the inlet to the outlet as a test will also help seal it. Your symptom described in post #9 can also be caused by the WURs not lowering the cold control pressure enough when cold -- you might want to check those as well. Also, one improvement they made (on BBi and 412) was to connect the control pressure fittings on each WUR together to give an average and equal control pressure to both banks. Do you have this hose connecting the two WUR together? If not, it would be a good thing to add IMO.
Steve Thanks for the suggestion. I'm going to check both AAVs and their power then move on. The one I've checked seems fine. No scores on the disk that I can see. So on to the second one.
Steve It has the balance line between the two WURs. The second AAV functions the same as the first. Next I'll check voltage going to the AAVs. According to the Bosch document the WURs and AAVs are only activated when they see a pulse from the distributer / coil which means the engine has to be running to check the voltage. Does that sound correct? Thanks Barry
That's goodness. Sort of. The KE-Jet model (TR) uses a pulse from one of the coils to close the tachometric relay which closes the fuel pump relays which then send +12V power to the fuel pumps and AAVs. Your K-Jet BBi, has a safety switch on one of the airflow metering units which must be open (air being drawn into the engine) to close the fuel pump relays which then send +12V power to the fuel pumps, AAVs, and WUR. Just unplug the bluish/greenish safety switch (simulating an "open" safety switch) and turn the key "on" = you should hear the fuel pumps run and +12V should be going to the AAVs and WURs. Whenever your fuel pumps are running (whether or not the engine is running), you should have +12V at the AAVs and WURs. It's the car manufacturer that implements the fuel pump safety system (not Bosch) so other makes with K-Jet could have a tachometric relay (in fact, early euro K-Jet TR do), but your BBi doesn't.
Thanks Steve Steep learning curve here. Unlike my carbed 308 the available documentation on the BBi is a little sparse. I've got Paul's schematics but they are for an 81 not 84 and of course the Federalization process changes some things. Having said that after cleaning and cycling the AAVs the engine starts and runs much like I would expect it to. It starts without stalling or messing with the gas with a cold idle of about 1400 Rpm and while I haven't driven it yet it appears the hot idle will be about 1000 Rpm. Major improvement. Next up the rear fog lights don't work. One anomaly between Paul's schematic in my car is the schematic indicates a "fog lights on" light in the tack. I don't see it and the owners manual doesn't show it either. Thanks Barry
