348 QuickJack

Looking at the website, it says 24 inch lift. Isn’t that what it’s always been?

 

24 inches is "plenty". I could remove the fuel tank at 18 inches.

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DO IT!

I got my 5000TL for Christmas this year. 100% worth it.

sjd

 

Not sure it applies but I'll drop this nugget. On a 355 the newer 5000TL model "just" fits. The trays where you put the rubber blocks have less options of placement the the prior models. You have to flip the quick jacks backwards which is fine. And it's a bit of fiddling as once you find the spot where the QJ clears the tires for lifting and the blocks are on acceptable lift points you'll see there's barely an inch probably less to make it all happen. That said once in place it's a great option as you can do quite a bit of work with little investment. Probably everything except an engine out (and even that may be possible as at least 1 member here has dropped but possibly not installed an engine with it) A creeper to slide around on is a must. My biggest complaint is getting it all in place and square . It takes a good bit of effort if you are by yourself. 2 people and 2 tape measures would make it much quicker. Every time I set it up it takes a good 30 minutes of back and forth wiggling here sliding there and every time I tell myself I'm going to make a jig for next time.

 

Yep, there’s nothing “quick” about it. If you’re using it for oil changes, the oil will have gone cold (if you’ve driven the car to warm up the fluids).

 

Quickjacks do require a bit of time to get everything carefully set up -- 20 to 30 minutes is accurate for me. I still use ramps for basic oil changes, but the Quickjacks are great for brake and suspension work and my cars have been very stable on them.

Just put my wife's Miata up on my Quickjacks last week to change the clutch master/slave cylinders before the start of autocross season and was thankful to have them. I have much more confidence that the car is stable versus conventional jack stands.

 

But, of course, you would still put safety jacks in place.
I’m a very nervous user of these hydraulic devices. One side seems to start lifting faster than the other on my setup, but they tend to even out.

Another drawback to the Quickjack is side access… and even front access, depending on where you lay the hydraulic lines. You really do need a creeper, but that cuts into your height clearance.

 

For reference. 5000TL with a 355.

 

Interesting. It does look higher than my old 5000 (can't remember the lettering after it)... and that's with additional modified hockey pucks to slot into the lifting points.

(EDIT: I think mine is the 5000SLX)

https://www.quickjack.com.au/bl-5000slx-portable-car-hoist.html

 

Here's a comparison video:



The new one looks so much better:

Greater height
Easier to move around

Not sure if the new "spread" differerences are an issue (see video). I sometimes have difficulty positioning the rubber blocks under the jacking points.

 

I think the spread difference is what makes it barely fit. By the book it doesn't make it. In reality it does work but the envelope of success is spot on or nothing. I'm using it with great success. Wrapping up a Tubi header install whenever I can get a hall pass and throw a few minutes at it here and there. Installed new SPAL fans "since they were out".. righted a few other wrongs along the way.

Last summer I rebuilt my fuel pump. Replaced all the rubbers. I'm almost tempted to drop the engine cradle with it just to see if you can. It's the reinstallation that's the issue.

I do really like them. Game changer. I'll probably end up with a 4 post lift at some point as my slab doesn't make the cut for a 2 post. There are some that have even used the QJ on top of a 4 post.

 

I believe you can buy "adaptor plates" which may allow you to meet the slab requirements. Depends on the manufacturer, of course.

https://aussiecarhoists.com.au/shop/2-post-car-hoist-base-support-reinforcement-plate-for-concrete-thickness-under-200mm/

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Sorry for the thread creep

 

Yes that's a real drawback when working with the F355 as the sides are blocked with the Quickjack and i don't feel comfortable to get in under from the back to loosen the oil plug.

Much easier lifting the other side and put jacks under the engine frame, then you can get in from the side.

 

Quick jack is solid if used properly. I'd roll under there way more confidently than I would with it on jacks. Having spent hours under there now I have no reservations. It's always janky lifting a whole car for jackstands even with multiple floor jacks. With the quick jack just roll in from the back on the creeper. If you have the wheels off you can even roll under the side. Note my photo above. The whole engine cradle is accessible from the side. Oil change is a cake, takes longer to get the jacks square and pan off. That's a great point the pan comes right off on the QJ.

 

i get my 348 in the air and things done faster than if I'd have gotten it in the air with jacks.

if I need side access, the jacks get high enough for me to put my wooden wheel stands under it....plop it on to those, and it's good to go.

sjd

 

I purchase the 5000tl and find it to be great for my needs for all my vehicles

I did look in to the Max Jack 2 post portable lift but after reaching it would have been more of a hassle for me to use in my garage plus it takes up side real estate just to give more open space under the car

I would definitely recommend anyone who does work on their vehicles to purchase a quick jack model they feel meets the needs they have

And as far as a major out service
Yes it can be done if you have experience doing it just need to set the jack up so that you do not fight working around it


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This is the holy grail.

German company called Finkbeiner.

https://www.asedeals.com/maha-usa-m-fhb-3500-mobile-two-post-lift/

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sjd

 

Wow never seen that one before

Looks good but at $17k US I’ll stay with the Quickjack at $1,300 US


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That's how I felt...

 

I don't get it. Seems to me, this Finkbeiner would have the inherent problem that even the lowrise Quickjack has... The car moves in an arc when it is being lifted, not only taking up extra space in garages, but it would cause problems with a 355 engine out, not going up vertically. My tech doesn't even need to take off the rear fender when doing an engine out, using a vertical lift.

The non-vertical lifting of the Quickjack is a particular problem for me. I use modified hockey pucks to insert into the standard sill lifting points... something like this, but home made with a hacksaw and some elbow grease (to quote a fellow forum member).

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When installing the Quickjack, if there is more than a few inches between the jack and the underbody, I have to figure out the arc in which it travels so that the rubber blocks hit the right spot in the semi raised position at all four corners. I can only do this with the Quickjack halves pointing in one direction. Otherwise the unlifted Quickjack hits the tyres or hits the ramps which I install to get the car high enough before the lift: Note that the Quickjack instruction booklet has a warning about lifting a car if the jack is close to fully lowered when you begin the lift. The geometry of the lift is compromised, putting strain on the components.... like holding up weights with your arms outstretched. For some reason, my car sits lower than it should (maybe a non-standard tyre issue).

Also, that Finkbeiner doesn't come with an overhead safety bar for low garages.

 

Putting up on ramps before hand is over thinking it. 355 doesn't weigh much. QJ has no issue lifting from the ground. Until I read the ramps part I didn't understand the issue of the arc. On the ground my rubber blocks just barely make it under. Actually I think I have short blocks in the front and taller ones in back. I don't use the jack points though, rather just some flat blocks on some alternate points that are in Dave's guide. The factory jack points won't fit on the TL model they are too close together. Either way she comes right up when you hit the button no strain.

Fully agree on the lifts that travel in an arc though. Not ideal for the cradle drop. I wonder how much that comes into play with a scissor style too.

 

Except that much of the weight is over the rear jacking points.

Same here, except I add the narrower hockey pucks to help prevent the QJ and the regular blocks from hitting the more fragile parts of the underbody inboard of the jacking points. Or do you position the jacks well outboard?

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Not my photo, so thanks to the person who posted it.

 

I'll grab a photo this weekend as it's up on the the QJ at the moment. I know my block is sitting snug against that angled vertical underbody piece. i.e. the block is at an angle in the tray and not straight. It BARELY makes it with the limitation of the trays in the TL model. Move the jack back and you run out of tray. Move it the forward and it hits the front tire when you lift. And now that I'm thinking of it perhaps putting on ramps would help in that regard since there is less arc.

 

I guess it depends on how high the ramps are and what problem the arcs cause. If you are worried about fore/aft movement before the blocks contact the lifting points, then the closer the blocks are to the sill, the better (not considering stress on the jack)
If you are worried about the car's fore/aft movement in a tight garage, then the higher the car before the blocks contact the sills, then the less fore/aft movement there is.

Juggling with ramps creates a whole new range of problems, depending on the design. They can't be too long as they will interfere with the QJ. They can't be too short or they will slide when you try to move onto them (depending on the floor and ramp friction). Also going onto four separate ramps simultaneously creates a problem for the car and traction.