Question about Water Wetter and Antifreeze

When it comes to heat transfer, water is far more effective than antifreeze. The problem with water is the boiling point -- 212 deg. Antifreeze has a much higher boiling point, but is not as effective when it comes to cooling.

So, what's the trade-off? A 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water gives the best possible alternative for cooling efficiency and boiling point. Plus, with an aluminum block engine, you want the anti-corrosion chemicals to protect the surface of the aluminum.

So why add the Water Wetter? Basically, because of surface tension in the water/antifreeze mix. Surface tension causes the water mix to lose contact with the metal of the engine and the metal of the radiator, reducing heat transfer. Water Wetter substantially reduces the surface tension of the water and causes it to adhere better to the metal surfaces while flowing through the passages, thereby increasing the heat transfer capabilities both in the engine to absorb more heat and in the radiator to release more heat.

Remember, in some applications, like in race vehicles, the use of antifreeze is frowned upon (don't want someone dumping antifreeze on the track -- water is okay). The Water Wetter there gives some anti-corrosion protection, but racers burn their pistons up long before the engine will corrode. The main thing is does is increase the boiling point and heat exchange capacity.

In normal street usage, no matter where you live, the best compromise for cooling, anti-corrosion, boiling point, etc. is a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distrilled water with a bottle of Water Wetter, IMHO. No one has convinced me otherwise.

 

I've used Water Wetter for two years and I am convinced it helps keep the engine cooler. I'm running 40% antifreeze and 60% water.

Ken

 

Nice post. Spot on.

 

Remember the boiling point of water is higher then 212 under 12lbs of pressure (someone do the math for me). I have run pure water + WW in the summer (Alabama - HOT summers) with no boilover problems at all.

 

I am running distilled water and ww also--no overheating here---did it to pass tek inspection at national meet coming up but will keep it in car till winter--works great...

 

Same here for the same reason, with the same results.

 

I have been doing the same with my Kawasaki Ninja bike...same dilution ratio....works for me.

 

I guess the only way to find out if pure distilled water +WW is a bad long term idea is whether or not our water pumps fail prematurely. Otherwise it is fine during non-freezing weather.

 

So then what's the verdict on Evans coolant?

 

I don't think a bad word has been said by those around here that use it.

 

So, how good at preventing corrosion is water wetter?

Recalling some of the horror stories about our aluminum engines and corrosion, I am very interested in avoiding this.

Is there some combinaton of WW, Sparklets Purified Water and a real anticorrosive additive that would really do the job?

I am interested in tracking the car, so the normal antifreeze mix or Evans cool stuff is out.

Is Evans "R" coolant approved for the track??

boiled and corroded,
chris

 

"I guess the only way to find out if pure distilled water +WW is a bad long term idea is whether or not our water pumps fail prematurely. Otherwise it is fine during non-freezing weather."

I had the "pleasure" of having the water pump on my '69 Corvette expire during a Lime Rock track day while using only water + water wetter (no antifreeze) due to track rules. This occured on a new water pump and after <2000 miles, as I was using the car for racing only at that point. I was lucky to have a friend with off-hours access to an auto parts store (thanks Kirk !) and was back on the track before the motor even cooled off.

Moral of story - the LUBRICATION quality of anitfreeze is also a important consideration in determining your ideal mix. Of course, this same lubrication quality is the very reason that race tracks do not want anitfreeze used, as it is a b*tch to clean up and leaves the track slick as ___.

Real "old school" guys might remember that water pump oil (mixed into coolant) used to be available "back in the day" - before "antifreeze" was formulated to today's high standards.

 

There is another very important factor when it comes to antifreeze vs. water and W.W. only. Cavitation at the water pump. It's not just the water pump prematurely failing. It your water pump cavitates, the turbulence can eat away the aluminum of the block very quickly. The best way to prevent that is by maintaining a good anticorrosion coating on the aluminum of the block. You need the silicates in the antifreeze to do that. I've seen the damage cavitation can do to a block and it is not pretty. I'd rather be sure I'm protecting my engine surfaces and water pump.

Is it okay to run water and W.W.? It works. And yes, having the added pressure of the radiator cap and sealed system raises the boiling point of water. Having a mix of water and antifreeze raises the boiling point of that mixture as well, higher than water and W.W. alone, giving you a "cushion" against boil-over in severe running conditions such as traffic and hot weather.

For my money, I'll stick with the 50/50 mix (60/40 water to antifreeze is not bad either, as long as you're in that range) plus water wetter. I think the added protection for internal engine components is well worth it. The only time I would use water and W.W. alone is for a track event that required no antifreeze, but as soon as that event was over, I'd go back to the 50/50 mix.

 

I was told 4 years ago when I blew the water pump to use 50/50 mix but us distilled water and phosphate (sp) free antifreeze. I change it every 2 years and it looks as clean as the new stuff I put in. Car runs at 1st notch on the temp gage and at 90 F heat and AC on it will hit 195 in traffic but when the 2nd fan turns on it goes back down . Works for me and so far other then the WP giving out the car runs pretty cool.

 

I think I'll start throwing a little splash of antifreeze in my mix from now on just to be on the safe side.

 

Just happened to be out today at 91 F outside. I was running arount 175F water temp just a hair over the 1st tick mark on the gage. AC on and cruising and came into town and got hung up in traffic . Just like always temp started going up abit until the 2nd fan turned on and I can watch the needle start going down. Started to move in traffic and it went back down to 175F. Oil temp was a hair past the 1st notch. I do notice that if you take the car out of the garage and the inside temp is 80F then with the AC on full I get 45 deg. out of the AC ducts. (I keep a AC thermoter in the center defroster duct). So far so good and the guy that redid my waterpump told me it should last for 10-15 years and if it blows and he is still alive he'll fix it for free. All I know is he didn't use Ferrari seals or bearings so some day I'll call him and get the details.