Product Review Mothers Waterless Wash

A few months ago I tried a small bottle of waterless wash, and thought it worked really well. Was not that sure it would work though it surprised me. Last Month I purchased a gallon of Griots waterless wash, and a gallon of their detail finish. Both work well. When it's really dirty the waterless wash did the job , and the finish detail spray works on light dust for in between. This is all I do in between applying yearly 3m hand glaze, paint polish & Zymol carbon wax.

What differences are there between the waterless wash products that makes one stand out?

 

Good review Vince. I'm still using the Zymol myself, but can't seem to find that extra bottle I had lying around. Any thoughts?

Cheers, Henry

 

I'm a bit skeptical since every time I drive my car here in FL it comes home covered in grit. Doesn't help that I always get hit by scattered sprinkles.

 

I'm switching to this product as well. Very impressed with the finish it left on my black car. No evidence of light scratches or love marks when used correctly.

 

Even just dusty/brake dust I'm going to try to smear it around and pick it up with microfiber towels rather than rinse most of it off first? I couldn't do it, spent too much time on paint correction.

 

Uh......the before and after pics?????

 

With waterless wash you're actually doing the same thing you'd do with water, but with an added level of lubrication water can't provide. If done correctly (and I'll emphasize correctly), waterless wash provides more protection against paint damage while removing the hazards (corrosion/staining) from washing with water. IMO of course...

 

Agreed. Even washing with water can cause damage if it's not done correctly (which is often the case). In my experience, having the *right* microfiber towels is key to success with waterless washes.

I have not tried the product under discussion but I've only used waterless wash on my black 348 and it looks great, even to my OCD self.

 

Not quite the same. I pressure wash the car first with deionized water (removing dust and any loose dirt), then wash with 2 bucket method, rinse with deionized water and dry with leaf blower.

The waterless wash I would guess is sprayed on top of whatever dirt is there as you aren't rinsing first and would think you would go through a ton of microfiber towels as you aren't rinsing them as you wash the car.

I'm not saying it's going to immediately destroy the paint or anything like that but I can't get my mind around how it could be easier on the paint than washing with water.

 

Jim, you are correct. How it's "easier" is folks can do this in a garage without getting all wet and making a mess in the garage. Or it can be done at a car show, etc.

I did this one time with my black car at a car show after driving 4.5 hours to get there. It was a bad move and too boot, I did it on a hot car in the sun - really, really bad move on my behalf. Since that time, it's always a wet water wash - no other way.

Now, some colors (non-black) certainly hide micro scratches better than others but as you said prior - too much time was spent on a paint correction to risk undoing that

 

Tried to shoot some pics of the finish of my black 348 today in order to put to rest the myth that waterless washes inevitably cause microscratches, but unfortunately the paint on the car is so shiny it doesn't photograph well at all. So all I wound up with is pictures of reflections of the messy garage of my project house, where I store the car. Doubters gonna doubt, but there are no microscratches.

I corrected the paint myself about one year ago using Menzerna products. the area shown (front right fender) had one or two coats of Menzerna Power Lock Sealant applied at that time, after which it was top coated with one or another carnauba based wax (I forget which one since I've experimented with several on that car). Subsequent to that it has been maintained only with waterless wash. Again, there are no microscratches visible with your nose an inch away from the paint.

As I said, the pics below are reflections in paint that has been maintained with waterless wash only. If you get microscratches from waterless wash you are using the wrong product, an incorrect technique, or both. Period.
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Our company just became the exclusive US distributor of a waterless line of products called Dry Shine. Dry Shine has been around for about 7 years, with the primary market being in Canada. (To our brothers up North, you may have seen the line in Canadian Tire). With the proprietary formulations & nano technology, it is completely safe and will not scratch the cars surface. Results are fantastic, and that is why we became the exclusive US distributor. http://DryShineUSA.com if you'd like to take a peak. (Look for us in major retailers soon)! I really can't remember the last time I used water to detail my car.

I promise I do not mean this to be a commercial post!

What I did want to point out is there are a few good waterless product lines out there (not all!), but whichever you use, follow directions to the word. Detailing the exterior of a car in 25 minutes, including glass and rims is a major convenience. Plus, no hoses, buckets, or wasted water, (up to 140 gallons per wash).

Enjoy the photos and happy Holidays!
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Agreed. I much prefer waterless for weekend toy type cars and I think it's better for the paint if the proper technique and towels are used. I've test several products but so far only two have impressed me. Looking forward to trying Dry Shine sometime.

 

I will check it out next time I am at Canadian tire

 

Do people (successfully) use these products on glass?

 

Shine an LED light and then take the photo Before and after I did my paint correction.
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I have and I do on a regular basis. As I've said before, it does not scratch the single stage paint on my 348 *at all* (note that I use different products and have not tried Mothers). I typically use one very plush microfiber towel per panel and a good bit of product.

I wouldn't have believed it myself but years ago I was on a three day rally with a friend and it poured rain one of the days. He had me help him clean his 348 with DriWash. I cringed the whole time but careful inspection of the paint showed no ill effects and his car always looked fantastic, even in harsh light. I don't use DriWash because I use carnauba wax as an LSP on the black car so I like following up with carnauba based products but I still think DriWash is a decent product.

I'm extremely anal about the finish on my cars so it takes me a couple of hours just to bucket wash a car. Takes a little less time for rinseless but it's still time consuming due to how careful I am. The real advantage is in not getting water where I don't want it and being able to clean the car at any time and in any temperature.

I still bucket wash the daily drivers due to the amount of dirt buildup, tree sap, etc, but the garage queens won't get washed unless something freakish happens and they get filthy. I'm convinced that rinseless (again, with the right products and technique is better for the car. No skin off my nose if you don't believe me though.

 

Mike - my last post was merely about photos and scratches - they don't show up with anything other that a high power light pointed right at the surface.

It's been several years now that I paint corrected my black 98 and applied 22PLE.

I need to do another light buff (I want to leave material on the car) as a tune up and then apply another good coating. I'm on the fence what I will try this time - perhaps I will look at Todd's latest offerings.

 

If you guys want an amazing rinseless car wash...I HIGHLY recommend Optimum No-Rinse.

I know a few exotic car dealers that use the product and it will change your opinion on no-rinse washes. I prefer it over a traditional car wash with tons of water.

 

I understood what you meant and I addressed it my first sentence. I do my own paint corrections so I'm well versed in the process of paint inspection and do so frequently. Most recently tonight-- the weather was so nice I decided to clean the rear end of the 348. Removed the rear grill and cleaned it as well as the bumper and tail lights, all with waterless of course. The light I was using clearly revealed that I have not yet corrected the rear bumper on that car, as there are a few swirl marks from someone else's polish job. But there are none of the micro scratches that result from dust/dirt abrading the paint.

 

Agree that ONR is a great product. It was the first product of that type that I tried and it really opened my eyes to what today's chemistry can do. Liked it so well I bought a gallon of it and use it to add to wash water. I'd use it as a rinseless wash too if I did that kind of thing, but I've since found a couple of products that I think are quite a bit better for waterless (spray) cleaning.

 

Definitely helps even adding a cap or two to your wash bucket even if you're not using it the way it was intended. After the first wash you'll notice a difference in your paint and water beading / rolling off of it. After a few washes it will be like you dipped your car in Rain-X.