Did the charts show you anything useful? Or, was it all a wasted effort if the battery is not tiptop? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I was collecting my thoughts after looking at these charts for the last hour or 2 when you sent that last message Here is a summary First Assumptions: Fluid level is good, Ediff leakage rate is good, tires are inflated properly and of correct size and battery is in good condition Observation / recommendations You do hold pressure when not moving and leak rate of clutch is good - so thinking TO bearing and clutch sensor is ok You do lose pressure faster when hot (as you mentioned) - some of it is expected since fluid may get thinner when hot but it does seem a little more than normal You do lose more pressure driving when ( understandable since of ediff kicking in) - again - don't have leak rate on that but assume that was fixed Number of seconds for pump ( from video) seems to be in line of about 4 to 5 seconds - maybe check when very hot .. if less than 3 seconds may show us something definite I didn't see pump go on one of those charts but that could be a lag on data stream or what I will discuss below So .. final things to try I still think you should try charging back relay temporarily ( if in good condition) since if battery is weak it may interfere with Smart relay ( strictly a guess). That would explain what I saw in charts of "no relay on" when pressure went down If I had to proceed without spending alot of money - If battery is more than 5 years old or was killed more than 3 times - replace and retry to recreate issue Totally replace fluid and bleed the proper way with taking off actuator and while at it replace screw o-rings and tighten them using proper torque. I would also change accumulator ( even though nothing from current charts jumped out at me) especially if cycle time when hot is less than 3 secs. I would still replace since you are doing a full bleed anyway why not do it ..it will fail at one point ...of course if it was changed in the last 4-5 ( 10k miles) years forget it. Create a video of self learning after a hot run to see if anything changes like shorter pump cycles etc as I mentioned above battery, bleed, screws and accumulator - that is what I would suggest
Ok, thanks for the feedback!! Let me get working on the part where I actually get it fixed. I can handle the battery but not sure if could do the rest.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You are very welcome .. I would still do those two tests i mentioned ..hot self learn and a old style relay After that change battery And then do the rest Good luck and i here if you need anything Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
One last question.. How hard is it to to the proper bleed and chat out accumulator as a DIY project? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It more about getting to the parts than the actual part itself If you search on here there are a few diy chats To make it easy the cat has to be removed to get to actuator on stock system Not hard ..just tedious.. and of course depends on your level of patience and wrenching skills A lift like a quick jack would be great to get undernear Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/how-to-replace-f1-accumulator-and-bleed-system.501597/&share_tid=501597&share_fid=9080&share_type=t&link_source=app This is a post from here to give you a general idea of replacing bulb (accumulator) The actuator bleed is different Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
Here is a few pages from.my WSM for actuator Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
Ok, I’ll try to run the final tests. Also, changed battery today.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Please follow the ecu relearn process after you reconnect the battery.. I will attach in a few Self-acquisition of the Motronic ECUs works correctly when the intake air temperature is higher than 5°C. Therefore make sure the external temperature is not outside the value specified. Leave the engine running for approximately 10 minutes in the following conditions: car at a standstill with engine idling; water at operating temperature; all devices off (lights, wipers, etc.); air conditioner off. This procedure enables the ECU to rapidly optimise all self-adaptive parameters, ensuring correct engine function. Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk