Problems With Downshift to Neutral at Stop Light | Page 3 | FerrariChat

Problems With Downshift to Neutral at Stop Light

Discussion in '360/430' started by AZHokie, Feb 25, 2021.

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  1. AZHokie

    AZHokie Karting

    Aug 20, 2016
    56
    Phoenix, AZ, USA
    Did the charts show you anything useful? Or, was it all a wasted effort if the battery is not tiptop?


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  2. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
    5,563
    Central NJ
    Full Name:
    Dominick
    I was collecting my thoughts after looking at these charts for the last hour or 2 when you sent that last message :)

    Here is a summary

    First
    Assumptions: Fluid level is good, Ediff leakage rate is good, tires are inflated properly and of correct size and battery is in good condition

    Observation / recommendations

    You do hold pressure when not moving and leak rate of clutch is good - so thinking TO bearing and clutch sensor is ok
    You do lose pressure faster when hot (as you mentioned) - some of it is expected since fluid may get thinner when hot but it does seem a little more than normal
    You do lose more pressure driving when ( understandable since of ediff kicking in) - again - don't have leak rate on that but assume that was fixed
    Number of seconds for pump ( from video) seems to be in line of about 4 to 5 seconds - maybe check when very hot .. if less than 3 seconds may show us something definite

    I didn't see pump go on one of those charts but that could be a lag on data stream or what I will discuss below

    So .. final things to try

    I still think you should try charging back relay temporarily ( if in good condition) since if battery is weak it may interfere with Smart relay ( strictly a guess). That would explain what I saw in charts of "no relay on" when pressure went down

    If I had to proceed without spending alot of money -

    If battery is more than 5 years old or was killed more than 3 times - replace and retry to recreate issue

    Totally replace fluid and bleed the proper way with taking off actuator and while at it replace screw o-rings and tighten them using proper torque.
    I would also change accumulator ( even though nothing from current charts jumped out at me) especially if cycle time when hot is less than 3 secs.
    I would still replace since you are doing a full bleed anyway why not do it ..it will fail at one point ...of course if it was changed in the last 4-5 ( 10k miles) years forget it.

    Create a video of self learning after a hot run to see if anything changes like shorter pump cycles etc as I mentioned above

    battery, bleed, screws and accumulator - that is what I would suggest
     
  3. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
    5,563
    Central NJ
    Full Name:
    Dominick
    One other thing - wipe out all errors after screen prints so we can see what is new
     
  4. AZHokie

    AZHokie Karting

    Aug 20, 2016
    56
    Phoenix, AZ, USA
    Ok, thanks for the feedback!! Let me get working on the part where I actually get it fixed. I can handle the battery but not sure if could do the rest..


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  5. AZHokie

    AZHokie Karting

    Aug 20, 2016
    56
    Phoenix, AZ, USA
    And again, thank you for your help. I’m very grateful


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    flash32 likes this.
  6. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
    5,563
    Central NJ
    Full Name:
    Dominick
    You are very welcome ..

    I would still do those two tests i mentioned ..hot self learn and a old style relay

    After that change battery

    And then do the rest

    Good luck and i here if you need anything

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  7. AZHokie

    AZHokie Karting

    Aug 20, 2016
    56
    Phoenix, AZ, USA
    One last question.. How hard is it to to the proper bleed and chat out accumulator as a DIY project?


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  8. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
    5,563
    Central NJ
    Full Name:
    Dominick
    It more about getting to the parts than the actual part itself

    If you search on here there are a few diy chats

    To make it easy the cat has to be removed to get to actuator on stock system

    Not hard ..just tedious.. and of course depends on your level of patience and wrenching skills

    A lift like a quick jack would be great to get undernear



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  9. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
    5,563
    Central NJ
    Full Name:
    Dominick
  10. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
    5,563
    Central NJ
    Full Name:
    Dominick
  11. AZHokie

    AZHokie Karting

    Aug 20, 2016
    56
    Phoenix, AZ, USA
    Ok, I’ll try to run the final tests. Also, changed battery today..


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    flash32 likes this.
  12. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
    5,563
    Central NJ
    Full Name:
    Dominick
    Please follow the ecu relearn process after you reconnect the battery..

    I will attach in a few

    Self-acquisition of the Motronic ECUs works correctly when the intake air temperature is higher than 5°C.
    Therefore make sure the external temperature is not outside the value specified.
    Leave the engine running for approximately 10 minutes in the following conditions:
    car at a standstill with engine idling;
    water at operating temperature;
    all devices off (lights, wipers, etc.);
    air conditioner off.
    This procedure enables the ECU to rapidly optimise all self-adaptive parameters, ensuring correct engine
    function.

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  13. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
    5,563
    Central NJ
    Full Name:
    Dominick
    Any updates ?

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