Pop up headlight motor problem | Page 2 | FerrariChat

Pop up headlight motor problem

Discussion in '456/550/575' started by skl63, Jul 25, 2009.

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  1. Lionworks Auto

    Lionworks Auto Formula 3

    Oct 16, 2013
    1,016
    Worthington OH
    Full Name:
    Ed
    Update: the passenger side is 100% with the ground fix but the drivers side is still a bit fussy so decided to dig into the mastic to see what’s on the side. Can I say Bosch should be effin shot for this motor?! There is an open junction box essentially on the side with the wiring and the notorious diode / completely drowned in the mastic. These photos represent an hour of excavation. Couldn’t there be a cover ?

    After much cleaning this started operating better but I suspect needs the diode replaced as still jittery. I tried to get close up photos...also soldered the ground connection as was loose. Another awful detail, destined to be unreliable.

    Then some pix of reinstall...hope this helps everyone with this problem. If I find the diode replacement will update.
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  2. Lionworks Auto

    Lionworks Auto Formula 3

    Oct 16, 2013
    1,016
    Worthington OH
    Full Name:
    Ed
    Some odd photos in there, not even mine?!


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  3. cls

    cls Formula 3

    Jun 12, 2007
    1,663
    Los Angeles/Montreal
    Full Name:
    Chris
    Great contribution. Nice Ingrid 456.
     
  4. G. Pepper

    G. Pepper Three Time F1 World Champ
    Rossa Subscribed

    Mar 15, 2012
    33,708
    Texas/Colorado
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    George Pepper
    Very cool! I had mine rebuilt as they were NLA in 2016 when one of mine died.
     
  5. Andrew D.

    Andrew D. F1 Rookie

    Jul 6, 2008
    3,979
    Goodwood Ontario
    Full Name:
    Andrew D.
    Used 480 motors are not easy to find. Try European Volvo sorces or the 480 club. Sometimes the wheel for rotating the gears shears. You will eventually find a used 480 motor and its cheap.
     
  6. Lionworks Auto

    Lionworks Auto Formula 3

    Oct 16, 2013
    1,016
    Worthington OH
    Full Name:
    Ed
    Who rebuilt?


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  7. Lionworks Auto

    Lionworks Auto Formula 3

    Oct 16, 2013
    1,016
    Worthington OH
    Full Name:
    Ed
    Thanks!


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  8. G. Pepper

    G. Pepper Three Time F1 World Champ
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    Mar 15, 2012
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    George Pepper
    Jim Smalley at FoSA.
     
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  9. Lionworks Auto

    Lionworks Auto Formula 3

    Oct 16, 2013
    1,016
    Worthington OH
    Full Name:
    Ed
    Thanks sir. I’ve since excavated further and ordered. Replacement diode. Will continue to clean as well. Anyone have ideas how to reseal without mastic ? Can’t bring myself to repeat the mess Bosch and ferrari created...




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  10. asgor

    asgor Formula Junior

    Sep 8, 2016
    705
    Virginia, USA
    Wrap first tightly around all areas with kitchen film/cling wrap and then add mastic?
     
  11. Lionworks Auto

    Lionworks Auto Formula 3

    Oct 16, 2013
    1,016
    Worthington OH
    Full Name:
    Ed
    Thanks. Condensation fear then...I’m literally considering silly putty.


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  12. Lionworks Auto

    Lionworks Auto Formula 3

    Oct 16, 2013
    1,016
    Worthington OH
    Full Name:
    Ed
    Got some IN4001 diodes from an electronics friend who had gotten off Amazon. Stripped the motor more of its awful mastic. Pulled the old diode and soldered the new on (ensured facing correct direction and for diagnostic did so above the other wires for ease of reach - will properly bury once solved). No improvement. I can make the motor turn continuously if jump the wires, so the motor and worm gear are working. With that, I suspect I have the problem inside the housing where the metal contacts at the wheel that tell the motor where 180 locates are not making proper contact so next step will be to drill the 3 rivets and open up to inspect the disc and contacts...also have stripped the wires of all protection for inspecting...so evidently continues my winter project. Me and the Bosch ;(




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  13. Lionworks Auto

    Lionworks Auto Formula 3

    Oct 16, 2013
    1,016
    Worthington OH
    Full Name:
    Ed
    Isn’t it a wonderful feeling when you finally. find. the. *******. issue? So drilled out the aluminum rivets and opened up the gear area on the motor and bingo, major mess! Appears Bosch used a lined gasket that had disintegrated all over the wheel and contacts, gumming them up something fierce. (Some of it my fault likely as was using slight amount of electrical cleaner on the exterior wiring while screwing around with the diode and I’m sure some some seeped in.). Also pulled the lock washer from the stem and removed the toothed gear.

    So spent an hour cleaning and prepping everything for reassembly. I decided to drill thru the rivet holes and will use small self locking nuts and bolts to hold the cover.

    Tomorrow need to pick up some fasteners and regrease, assemble and test. Will keep touch!


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  14. franschman

    franschman Formula Junior

    Dec 18, 2017
    349
    Holland
    Full Name:
    Bart
    Nice thread!
    This problem is similar to what is often encountered in wipermotors and the like, except that in your case all components are still intact. Often these contact lips break/bend and damage the rest of the mechanism. You're lucky.
     
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  15. Lionworks Auto

    Lionworks Auto Formula 3

    Oct 16, 2013
    1,016
    Worthington OH
    Full Name:
    Ed
    Agree - no rust and everything intact!


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  16. Lionworks Auto

    Lionworks Auto Formula 3

    Oct 16, 2013
    1,016
    Worthington OH
    Full Name:
    Ed
    Reassembled. Moved too quickly and didn’t get a photo of my ‘rebuilt’ gasket, but basically used a thin self stick felt piece cut to same shape as the gasket material (which had all its original material disintegrate) - it’s the bit of green you see sandwiched. This is for the wheel side of the assembly as it spins, needs something soft to run against and keep the pressure on the metal conduits.

    Used some simple galvanized M3 screws and nuts to hold it all together and will use thread lock as final with each.

    Soldered the new diode in place (ugly but so is the rest by professional German Bosch Techs!)

    Need to test it, but the car had a surprise water pump failure / which was rebuilt about a month ago, so free replacement underway. Or may test on a spare battery...

    Meanwhile, any ideas how to waterproof again without dunking in mastic? In this day and age is there a “thick” shrink wrap material I could buy with a heat gun?

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  17. Lionworks Auto

    Lionworks Auto Formula 3

    Oct 16, 2013
    1,016
    Worthington OH
    Full Name:
    Ed
    456 back with brand new water pump - all replaced for free and paid by water pumper. So tested the motor. Working perfectly. Satisfying.

    Now, how to re-waterproof without repeating the mastic dunk of original? Any ideas in the modern age of sealants and plastics?




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  18. Lionworks Auto

    Lionworks Auto Formula 3

    Oct 16, 2013
    1,016
    Worthington OH
    Full Name:
    Ed
    I’m sure this won’t be the worst hack in an analog V12 but it might be close . So used Silly Putty around the electrical and diode and then several poured and dipped Flex Seal coats finished off with Plasti Dip . Seems to be pretty protected and the electrical connections are way easier to access if must go in again...reinstalling before Xmas...

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  19. G. Pepper

    G. Pepper Three Time F1 World Champ
    Rossa Subscribed

    Mar 15, 2012
    33,708
    Texas/Colorado
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    George Pepper
    I always have a couple of eggs of Silly Putty laying around. They've become handy a few times over the years. :)
     
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  20. Lionworks Auto

    Lionworks Auto Formula 3

    Oct 16, 2013
    1,016
    Worthington OH
    Full Name:
    Ed
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  21. G. Pepper

    G. Pepper Three Time F1 World Champ
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    Mar 15, 2012
    33,708
    Texas/Colorado
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    George Pepper
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  22. vlamgat

    vlamgat Formula Junior

    Jan 9, 2004
    776
    Lurking - I have had the same issues in all versions of the problem on both lights. Had the motors rebuilt but never got a specification for the actual work. After reinstalling, left worked ok but right would not come up. When the manual raise wheel was twirled it would stay up and go down when the headlights were switched off. So renovated all 3 of the grounds which allowed both lights to come up but the right was not a smooth process, jerky and different speeds between jerks. My techs surmised it was still a voltage problem so we started to rig new ground wiring. Fortuitously we tried the lights with the engine running and they worked perfectly. Load tested the battery (4 years old but used regularly) and it was producing 71% of its CCA which is essentially a "fail". Replaced the battery and lights work nominally. Before the motors were rebuilt the lights were misbehaving with or without the engine running. They are used regularly.
     

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