Panerai Choices... need advice | FerrariChat

Panerai Choices... need advice

Discussion in 'Fine Watches, Jewelry, & Clothes' started by Robb, Nov 29, 2016.

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  1. Robb

    Robb Moderator
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    #1 Robb, Nov 29, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    So, I have owned a Panerai 183 Black seal Radiomir. Did not like the strap connections (thin wires) and how much a pain it was to change straps. Size was good. Face was good. Manual wind was fine. Sandwich dial great.

    Went to a luminor 177 for the iconic crown guard and less dressy approach. Titanium marks up a bit more easily. Liked the overall watch being less shiny than the black seal. Don't like the regular luminor as much as the case on the radiomir or the 1950 luminor case.

    Looking at final evolution.

    Either a 312 or 320 as an automatic 1950 style.
    Prefer the brushed steel case rather than mirror polish on 100% of the watch. Don't like the thickness of the case which is much thicker than Rad or traditional luminor.

    So that brings me to the 1940 radiomir. Case looks slimmer and more curvy like the 1950... has the strap lugs I like for easier strap changes. Loses iconic crown guard. Not sure if the 1940 comes in brushed steel case with just a polished top bezel? I like the base look face with all 4 numbers. The seconds hand is not necessary but more of a bonus. Is the 1940 rad more rare and unique? Are all the 1940 fully polished or is there one with brushed steel?

    So choice is between the 1950 luminor automatic like the PAM 312 or 1940 radiomir PAM 572 as photo attached.

    Leaning toward Rad.

    Thoughts from the group?

    Robb
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  2. Robb

    Robb Moderator
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    #2 Robb, Nov 29, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  3. cls

    cls Formula 3

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    I have a BNIB 632 for sale. Thinner than the 111 etc, tobacco vintage dial and vintage lume.

    Otherwise, I love the Rad and that classic case.
     
  4. Robb

    Robb Moderator
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    I like the 632 but think it is 4K out of my budget...

    So if you had to pick one of the two above, the 312 or 572, which would you pick?

    Robb
     
  5. Gator1

    Gator1 Karting

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    I have 2 panerai's. I think the Luminor GMT is hot. A Sharper look than the radiomir. imo.
     
  6. cls

    cls Formula 3

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    #7 cls, Nov 29, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Hope not, I'm selling for $4500.


    I'd pick the 572. To me the essence of Panerai is the Navy tool watch, the more modern dial with date just looks wrong (IMO.)

    This is the 632:
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  7. Robb

    Robb Moderator
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    Good looking watch. I got it mixed up with a different model costing 10k...

    Thank you (and the rest of the group) much for your thoughts.

    Robb



     
  8. simpleton7890

    simpleton7890 Karting

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    Hi Robb - I worked as a Panerai AD for a few years, I hope you find my thoughts helpful.

    To me, the Radiomir never really worked. The wire lugs just did not do it for me. When the 1940 case launched, I thought it was one of the most beautiful watches I had ever seen. However the 514, at 47mm was just too big. Now, that is mainly because I can't pull it off!

    In 2013, I was even tempted by the 512 myself. It's 42mm 1940 case was so amazingly sleek and well-balanced. This remains one of my favorite watches. The idea that a Panerai can essentially be a dress-watch was such an anti-Panerai notion and novelty that I couldn't help but fall in love.

    Then in 2014 the 1940 went automatic and in steps the 572. OK, great they managed to slim down the movement and create the auto 1940 that everyone wanted. But, they slapped 'Automatic' across the dial. My honest opinion is that this kills the watch. I really dislike it. What's worse is that at 45mm, the 572 is not a small watch. It is better than the 47mm but it is not the 42mm that I feel works best with the 1940 case.

    Yes, they subsequently launched the auto 1940 in 42mm also (PAM620), perhaps because I am not the only one that feels this way about the best sizing for the 1940. BUT it still has 'Automatic' across the dial and just throws the aesthetic off.

    Long story short: to me, you are a man of great taste to be taken by the 1940. It is absolutely stunning and revered as a truly 'cool' Panerai choice; it steps away from the monotony. However, you asked for opinions and I will share mine: the 572 is the wrong one. It is too big and it is automatic. To live vicariously through you, I implore you go for today's version of the 512 I fell in love with when the line launched: the PAM574. It has its flaws but boy, does that watch sit on your wrist.

    To answer your other questions: the 1940s are majority polished steel but there is a 45mm in titanium. Golds and ceramic thrown around too.

    In terms of rarity, all PAMs have an annual production target and as such are all 'limited' for their production year that can be easily identified by the serial. What this means in reality is that the popular models (usually base models) are hard to get for current model year and are controlled pretty tightly by PAM/Richemont when distributed. To be honest, anything other than the base models (000, 005 etc) can be sourced relatively easily, even if Richemont has to pull the watch from another account to transfer it to your AD.
     
  9. cls

    cls Formula 3

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    I agree about the look of the "automatic" print, but that's pretty minor IMO.
    Regarding the wire lugs, certainly not for everyone (including me) but the original watches were built that way for a reason, and it's a nice homage.
    The watch is 45mm because the original case was 45mm. Being historic, I agree with the rationale for that size.
     
  10. simpleton7890

    simpleton7890 Karting

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    I completely get your opinion and feel that most would agree with you. No real Panerai enthusiast is likely to agree with me - I even said that it was the anti-Panerai feel of the 42mm that did it for me.

    To abbreviate my essay-like post, IMO the 1940 case lends itself in its most perfect form to the manual 42mm.

    (When it comes to other Panerai models I am actually a purist - I promise!)
     
  11. cwilson13

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    #12 cwilson13, Dec 1, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I went through a PAM period several years ago.

    By far and away, my favorite was the PAM 190 (Rad 44mm).

    It is a special piece and is now a great buy if you can find one.
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  12. Robb

    Robb Moderator
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    Simpleton,

    I really appreciate the time you spent on your post. It is great input and gives me a good outlook on the options. I like the 512 and it is really thin. I have not had problems with the 44 and 45mm Panerai's - my wrists are large.

    The 47mm is a bridge too far and starts to look like I am on the edge. So I'll have a look at the 42mm as well. The 42mm look a little awkward with the large crown protector but don't have this issue with the 1940 or standard radiomir case.

    I just like seeing all 4 numbers on the face after wearing two watches that lost a 9 for the minute hand. I really would like to have all 4 on there.

    I think it's only something you realize after wearing one a lot and your time with checking a watch. I'm not even in need of a minute hand these days because of iPhone timers or other settings on my cameras...

    So I do like the base look.

    I'm very appreciative of the other comments as well.

    I wish the 1940 Radiomir had a quick change tool setup for the strap changes.

    Robb





     
  13. daviday

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    I'm with you on the GMT.


    OP, what do you think of the Flyback? It may be a little more complicated than you'd like but willing to part with this one if you have any interest.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]




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  14. Robb

    Robb Moderator
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    I did not check the water resistance rating on all my choices...

    Some you can't really get wet at all. I'd like to have options on swimming, snorkeling, and diving. Based on practical ratings - that means 300m. So it looks like I will be going for a 312, 320, or 351 with some of the highest water resistance.

    I will opt for the Luminor 1950 for this Panerai, and will look at the dressier side with a JLC.

    Robb
     
  15. drjohngober

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    Fort the Paneriastis :)),
    I have a 112 and love it but I find myself not wearing it as much as I sometimes forget to keep it wound. I know most prefer the manual models but I would like to get the same watch in an automatic- maybe even a 45mm model.

    What models should I look at that are automatic and 44mm or larger?
     
  16. darth550

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  17. Adamas

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    #18 Adamas, Dec 8, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Here are some of mine; IIRC, following are correct case measurements-

    Starting with the bottom pic, the California is 47mm (and my new favorite), and the rose gold next to it is 45mm. The gold with the carbon fiber face is a 44mm. In the first pic, the watch to the far right is 45mm; all of the rest of them are 44mm. If you like the way any of them look, pm me and I'll forward you the model number.

    Good luck in your search- I am an Fchat sponsor who sells diamonds/jewelry/watches/etc., so let me know if I can be of any service (these are some of my personal watches, so these pictured aren't for sale).
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  18. vjd3

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    While I really like the look of the "dirty dial" watches, especially with the sandwich dials, on my wrist I find the regular lume and the sausage numerals easier to read. Maybe I am just getting a little old.

    I had a 44mm 533 that I loved, but it was just a little too large for my wrist, so I went with a 42 mm 537 1950 Luminor. It has the "clouse de Paris" face (nails of Paris) as the 320 does and it looks sharp, to me. Very happy with it.

    The 632 is at a nice price point but it lacks the quick change feature for the straps so that made it a non-starter for me.
     
  19. Ingenere

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    #20 Ingenere, Jan 11, 2017
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  20. scudF1

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    I have a Panerai daylight among other Panerais. I love that watch. I think it's one of my favorites.
     
  21. Adamas

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    Agree with the previous 2 posters. I had a daylight, but gave it to a close friend. I want another one.
     
  22. Oengus

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    I have a few in my avatar
     
  23. scudF1

    scudF1 F1 Rookie
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    I think its one of the few panerais out there that you can dress up or down with the proper leather strap. Beautiful watch.
     

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