Ovreheating in my 308 GT4 | FerrariChat

Ovreheating in my 308 GT4

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by rickjaffe, May 31, 2005.

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  1. rickjaffe

    rickjaffe Formula Junior

    Mar 6, 2005
    363
    houston
    Full Name:
    richard jaffe
    hadn't started the car in a few days. drove a couple miles, and when I shut down the car, steam was coming out of the engine. The steam was not coming from the resoivoir, or the cap. It was coming from from the engine lost some coolant as well, again not coming from the resorvioir, but from the bottom of the engine bay, forward of the tank. No noise when the engine was running (other than a hisssing sound of the water overboiling or hitting some other part.); (had a similiar problem with my old lincoln but the fan was loose and made a noise, turned out needed a new water pump).

    Temperature was high, for just a couple of miles (but not redline or even close.

    had the coolant system bled 2 1/2 months and 900 miles ago.

    all belts seem to be on and tight.

    could I be really low on fluid (check it regularly but, I suppose there could be alot of air in the system, or could there be in just two months?)

    what s' the diagnotics, differential diagnosis? thanks.
     
  2. Iain

    Iain F1 Rookie

    Jan 21, 2005
    3,301
    UK
    The steam coming from the bottom could be where the coolant overflow pipe actually comes out - trace it down from the expansion tank & have a look - other than that you may have a split coolant pipe (hope its a rubber one!).

    If its coming from the expansion tank overflow it could be that the cap is old/weak & needs to be replaced.

    Also suggest you bleed the system - especially at the T/stat housing - if there is an air lock there it could prevent the stat from opening properly. Also bleed at the radiator end.

    To bleed it open the bleed screws with the engine off (and cold) first & see if you get anything out. Then start the engine, open up the cabin heater valves & try again, wait a few minutes & then try again.

    If the car is running too hot then iits either a stuck T-stat, a big air lock or some maybe some kind of water pump problem - after that its the radiator.

    HTH

    I.
     
  3. rickjaffe

    rickjaffe Formula Junior

    Mar 6, 2005
    363
    houston
    Full Name:
    richard jaffe

    well I can see that the water is not coming from the overflow hose off the reservior; that hose is only about 9 inches and drops straight down from the tank. the water is leaking a foot forward of that, which is why I'm concerned that it's water pump related. I'll try bleeding the system later, but I'm thinking that if it's not coming from the cap or the tank, then doesn't it have to be water pump related or at least some kind of fitting to or from the water pump.
     
  4. jimangle

    jimangle F1 Rookie

    Nov 5, 2003
    2,506
    Haverford
    Full Name:
    James
    It's probably your water pump, or if your a tad bit lucky a coolant hose.
     
  5. tomoshea

    tomoshea Formula Junior

    Dec 29, 2003
    541
    Ireland
    Full Name:
    Tom O'Shea
    OK,

    I am a bit uncear as to where exactly you are talking about.

    If it is coming from in fornt of cylinders 5-8 (i.e between the engine and the cabin, it is one of the 2 flexibles that join the water pipes from the engine to the aliminium pipes that run to the fornt of the car.

    these leak frequently and NOTE: when this starts to happen it is only a metter of time before you have a serious failure of one of them and you won't necessarily notice it!!!!

    Replace them, sapres available from superformance.co.uk for £20 for a full engine set. easy job, just time consuming.

    Secondly, I have doen this twice and my car still has a tendency to airlock, so I bleed the cooling system every couple of weeks if I have not started or run the car and I always find more air has gotteninto the system.

    SO I would suggest you also bleed the car a bit more frequently.

    To do this properly make sure you have the car sitting on a slope, front end lower than rear end. open the rad bleed and keep filling the expansion tank with water until the rad bleeds water.

    Hope that helps
     
  6. 208 GT4

    208 GT4 Formula 3

    Dec 27, 2003
    1,769
    Brighton (UK)
    Full Name:
    Dan
    If it's the water pump, you may also find that your belts squeal when you first start it up. Mine goes in for a new water pump tomorrow.
     
  7. robertgarven

    robertgarven F1 Veteran
    Owner

    Feb 24, 2002
    5,282
    Ventura, California
    Full Name:
    Robert Garven
    reach underneath the wp , there are two holes that start to weep when the wp seal starts to go. If you can jack the car up and take the wheel and wheel well cover off you will have a easier time looking for leaks. I found that after the car sits for a couple of weeks while i am working on it when I start it up sometimes I have a few leaks associated with the expansion and contraction of the coolant hoses tubes etc. I have a 75 gt4 and found that it does not have the problem the later 308 gtb/s have with gulping air. I think this is because of the overflow tank position?

    Rob
     
  8. rickjaffe

    rickjaffe Formula Junior

    Mar 6, 2005
    363
    houston
    Full Name:
    richard jaffe


    UPDATE:

    just got back from home. first, I backed the car up on a slope so I could get a better look at what's going on. then, with the engine off I opened the radiator bleed screw and removed the radiator cap; plent of air came out. tank was alittle low of fluid from previous loss of fluid, not much maybe half a pint.
    then I started the engine, with bleeding screw open at first and then closed it after water started coming out, but kept the radiator cap off; tank emptied, and put in more water, got a continous leak, it's not the expansion tank; since the radiator is in the front and the expansion tank is a foot behind where the leak is, seems to me it has to be 1. the water pump or 2. some hose that goes to it.
    with the engine on it was a pretty continous leak, more than drops but less than gushing. put in two gallons of water and it lost say another quarter pint with the engine running for 10 minutes or so.
    some of the leak was on the passanger side of the exhaust pipe, but most was on the driver side; it was dribbling down the oil pan. No squeaks, and the water temp never got to redline, or even heated up, but I didn't race the engine.

    also I could see that the steam was being caused by the water falling on the exhaust pipe, perhaps among other parts.


    so I conclude the following:
    1. I had air in the system
    2. It was probably pretty low on cooling fluid

    and either
    3. I've got a bad seal or something else wrong with the pump
    or

    4. some hose is loose or like you said it's worn out.

    is there another operating diagnostic test that I could rule out the water pump?

    here's what I'd like to know:

    couldn't see much from under the car (but I don't have a lift, just some plastic sloping things which I can drive my car onto.) and couldn't see much from top because of the engine and the air filter cover (wouldn't mind if someone could tell me how to remove the base so I could get a look at some of the carb adustment screws per another thread);

    is there a better way to visaully diagnose the problem, say through the right passanger rear well? and is that how the hoses are changed? or is it through underneath the car?

    also, if it's just hoses, can any good mechanic change them?
    If it's the water pump, what's the deal in terms of cost, new versus rebuild? thanks.
    One of the reasons I want to rule out the water pump (aside from the obvious cost) is that I suppose I'll need a ferrari competent mechanic to change that, where the hose, as I said, I was hoping any good pair of hands could do that job. thanks for the advice.
     
  9. rickjaffe

    rickjaffe Formula Junior

    Mar 6, 2005
    363
    houston
    Full Name:
    richard jaffe
    how do you fix those leaks, once you find them? some kind of sealant additive to the liquid. That's how I fixed a leak in my lincoln.
     
  10. lusso64

    lusso64 Formula 3

    Apr 12, 2004
    1,535
    Simi Valley
    Full Name:
    David
    Rick..... you've made it this far - you should be able to change any of the hoses yourself (although some can be a right royal PITA to get to) and even the water pump remove and replace is straightforward.

    There are a few options once you have the pump out, including new designs, repairing the old one, or upgrading to a 328 style. Be sure to be certain that you need to play with the water pump before removing it however.

    As for the airbox, pull the lid off (4 thumb-nuts) remove the airfilter, and around each carb you'll see 4 nuts. Undo each of these, being careful not to drop the nuts or washers down the carby barrels. Been there done that.... It is always a good idea to put a plug in the top of each barrel before starting this work. Bath plugs, even scrunched up cotton rags will do.

    Once you have removed the 16 nuts, loosen the hose clamp on the left underside of the airbox that has the oil vapour return line attached (about 5/8" OD). Then remove the carby top pieces and then the airbox shuld lift off with some wiggling and jiggling.

    Beware - each carby top piece is sealed to the airbox by a big rubber gasket that has 4 collets in it - one for each of the studs that you just removed the nuts from. These collets have a habbit of dropping out, and straight down the carb barrels! It is often an idea to gently raise the airbox and before the studs have been cleared, use a small screwdriver to prise the collets out of the rubber gasket and let them drop onto the studs and remain there.

    Once you get the airbox off, remove the collets carefully. If you want to run the engine to tune the carbs, it is safe to do so, but best to place the carby tops back on (no need to put the nuts on).

    Of course, now you are here, you can see the Y junction for the water hoses which may also be a source of your water leak. Since you are this far, replace all the hoses (water and fuel) that you can see. It is very cheap, and easier than having to pull eveything apart again later.

    Various people will have their own preference for what hoses to use, but unless you are going for originality (which will be expen$ive), just get the best quality hose that pep Boys has to offer in the correct sizes. Consider replacing all clamps with new ones also....

    Dave
     
  11. Jay GT4

    Jay GT4 F1 Rookie

    Oct 16, 2001
    4,995
    La mamma dei fessi
    Full Name:
    e sempre incinta
    How old are the hoses? If they are more than 10 years I would change them regardless of weather or not they are leaking. Any mechanic can remove and install a new water pump. As was mentioned upgrade to the 328 pump or get an upgraded S/S impeller for the old one when it's rebuilt.
     
  12. 208 GT4

    208 GT4 Formula 3

    Dec 27, 2003
    1,769
    Brighton (UK)
    Full Name:
    Dan
    When my water pump went, it was obvious where it was coming from, and it was only from 1 end of the engine. So perhaps it is a coolant pipe after all?

    If you take off the air filter housing then everything is a lot more visible.
     
  13. rickjaffe

    rickjaffe Formula Junior

    Mar 6, 2005
    363
    houston
    Full Name:
    richard jaffe
    ok I've progressed somewhat:

    I took off the pass rear wheel and the thing which hides the engine (not sure it's brain freeze or just don't know what it's called;

    there are three places under the car which it's leaking;

    1. in between the two timing covers there's I guess the watter pump; there appears to be a blue gasket between the two halves. water appears to be coming from the bottom most nut; but there are two leaks on the other side of the engine, which leads me to believe that what I'm seeing is not the primary leak or the leak at all;

    the leak appears to come from higher; maybe some aluminun pipe or where the thermostat comes in or lateral to the driver side of that pipe and thermostat fitting.

    don't have good visibility because of the bottom air filter cover. will try to remove the airfilter to visualize it better; that leak could be responsible for all three splatter patterns on the floor as it is probably hitting some other parts underneath and directly the water in different directions.
    the leak is pretty big, much more than a few small drops, seem to increase when more gas is given, which is logical I guess.
     
  14. rickjaffe

    rickjaffe Formula Junior

    Mar 6, 2005
    363
    houston
    Full Name:
    richard jaffe
    "Of course, now you are here, you can see the Y junction for the water hoses which may also be a source of your water leak. Since you are this far, replace all the hoses (water and fuel) that you can see. It is very cheap, and easier than having to pull eveything apart again later.

    Various people will have their own preference for what hoses to use, but unless you are going for originality (which will be expen$ive), just get the best quality hose that pep Boys has to offer in the correct sizes. Consider replacing all clamps with new ones also...."

    that sounds like a pretty good idea, if I can do it; I guess I just take the old stuff over to an auto shop and ask them to match them. is there a part book on line which might have the part numbers which could be cross referenced?
     
  15. geekstreet

    geekstreet Karting

    Feb 7, 2005
    220
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    Cam
    Check the v short hoses that run across the top of the heads, from bank to bank. They are buggers to check & change, but if split will cause water to leak onto the top of the "V" between banks & then runs down the front of the block past the WP area.
     
  16. Jdubbya

    Jdubbya The $10 Trillion Man
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 28, 2003
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    Rick,

    Now that you have the passenger side opened up start the car and look again. If it is the water pump you will see coolant coming from one or both of the "weep" holes in the bottom of the pump housing. It will be pretty obvious, just look in toward the driver side just past the water pump pulley. If it's not leaking there then you can try to trace down where it's coming from above.

    Almost all the fittings and hoses are above the weep holes so with it running you should be able to tell.

    Check out this link for a good picture of the water pump where you can see the two weep holes... http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showpost.php?p=134694701&postcount=1
     
  17. rickjaffe

    rickjaffe Formula Junior

    Mar 6, 2005
    363
    houston
    Full Name:
    richard jaffe
    well, with everyone's help and encouragement, I made considerable progress.

    I managed to remove the carb tops, and the spacers which go in the bolt holes. I didn't remove the whole air filter assemby; it was attached to some kind of cloth pipe; an air vent I suppose. But I moved the assemby aside and got a good look at the water manifold and the hose forward of the thermostat on the top manifold (from the reservior I think).

    visually it looked pretty crudy; the hose clamp was rusted and I could see that the clamp cut through the hose; the underside of the hose wet.
    I started the engine to double check and that hose was leeking badly. it took me a while, but I finally managed to cut it off. the clamps were completed rusted;

    the bottom one looks better, but the clamps are rusted as well, I guess all that dripping from the top hose. the bottom I left in so far, I'm concerned about the work area and whether I'll be able to put a hose on the bottom manifold.

    I guess I'll take the old hose to o"reily's tomorrow (our pep boys, and get another hose; any specific type of hose I should look for?

    since I've got the housing off I guess I'll try to adjust the idle to get to 900 or so. (in for a dime etc... ")

    getting a new k&N air filter as well, on the same theory; and will probably flush out the whole cooling system, since that's the only fluid system I haven't changed since getting the car two months ago.

    so far so good. many thanks. rick jaffe
     
  18. robertgarven

    robertgarven F1 Veteran
    Owner

    Feb 24, 2002
    5,282
    Ventura, California
    Full Name:
    Robert Garven
    Rick,

    Looks like you found the leak. The original hose is 40mm ID, I get it in a long 6 foot section from TR in atlanta. It is expensive but the best. Gates has a green stripe that many here swear by, get a 6 foot piece and you can do all your hoses. Be real careful cutting the hose off as it can cut the delicate aluminum tubes. When you put those top ones back on put some coolant inside the ends to slide them on, a little bending of the hose will help too! I would get some AWAB stanless steel clamps, they are the best and avaiuilable at many boating stores;

    http://www.abaofamerica.com/products.asp

    I started a write up to help you get your car off the ground but looks like I am too late,

    http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?p=134971623#post134971623

    I will be adding to it as I go along, maybe I should do the coolant change next!!! Use distilled water and there is a petcock on the engine and use the forward heater hose to drain the front. I would change all the water hoses while your at it there is also one in front near the bottom of the radiator under the battery and two in the middle in front and a elbow at top, look for a 40mm 90 degree elbow if not the cheap F price is $90 for that one!!!

    Good Luck, Take your time, If I can do this stuff anyone can!!

    Rob
     
  19. rickjaffe

    rickjaffe Formula Junior

    Mar 6, 2005
    363
    houston
    Full Name:
    richard jaffe
    well. I spent the whole eving working on the car; picked up some radiator hose from pep boys and cut it to fit. the bottom hose looked ok and I was really afraid of biting off more than I can chew. it took awhile to get the new hose on the top manifold. I was starting to think about bailing out and getting someone to do it; but it finally got on; ran the car for 25 minutes and no more leaks;

    fixed the idle (per my air conditioning thread), since I had the air filter off, and added some more freon and got down to 52 degrees on an 80 degreee night. the hardest part puttting it back were those damm nuts on the carb tops. I'll do test drive tomorrow, but I'm optimistic that I worked through the problem. I think I'll flush the system and put distilled water and water wetter in over the weekend. thanks for the help, would never had tried it without the support here.
     
  20. Jdubbya

    Jdubbya The $10 Trillion Man
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    Dec 28, 2003
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    Good news! Glad to hear somebody got off easy!!!
     
  21. rickjaffe

    rickjaffe Formula Junior

    Mar 6, 2005
    363
    houston
    Full Name:
    richard jaffe

    looks like I'm not quite done; see my new thread on taking a step backwards.
     

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