Oil Filler Cap Frozen -can't unscrew it!

You could use a heat gun even though I think you would be safe with a propane torch if you didn't get silly with it. Then maybe a strap wrench of the type used for oil filters. I wonder if using teflon plumbing tape might be a good solution if used wisely would be a possible solution to this problem.

 

Jim,

Welcome back!

Freeman

 

Have you tried anti-seize?

 

I would think you would just put some anti-seize on the threads of the cap.

 

Jim- nice to see you back on! you have been missed- now get out & drive those cars in that sunny weather! Its freezing sleet/snow back east & we are jealous!!

 

welcome back, stay a while

 

This is what I meant. For next time.

 

I have found this stuff can perform miracles when it comes to loosening things which otherwise won't loosen.

They claim it wll defy gravity and crawl up into difficult to reach spots. I can't verfiy that, but I can verify it has helped on some stuff that I thought we'd never get loose without a torch.



D
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^ how is it supposed to work?

 

their `spin'...

By combining rapid freezing action with an advanced, rust eating formula, seized or rusted parts are easily released. Shrinkage of sprayed parts quickly breaks open micro fine fissures allowing the lubricant to easily penetrate through the toughest rust. The innovative rust eating technology then dissolves rust making the job a snap and future maintenance easier as well.

 

works against rust only? what works on green loctite?

 

Green Loctite is for sleeves, where have you applied it? It is not very strong.

Regards, Alberto

 

applied to shift knob locknut on one of my cars. trying to remove shift knob.

 

Could you not just unbolt the oil cap assembly from the engine & soak it in a combination of acetone & transmission fluid ( PROVEN to be the BEST at freeing stuck bolts/parts)...Alex

Technical Penetrating Oil Showdown!!! - THE H.A.M.B.

 

Heat up a wrench, have an oven glove handy.

If conditions permit it, and without damaging components or yourself,
apply the wrench to the nut to transfer its heat, thus allowing it to break the Loctite grip.

How much heat? it all depends which 'Green' you have used:

"609, Green: Retaining compound, high strength, for mounting slip fit bearings to shafts.

603, Green: Retaining compound, high strength, similar to 609 but good where the parts may be a little oily. Good for mounting oilite bushings in housings.

640: Green: Retaining compound, high strength. Similar to 609 and 603. Lacks the oil tolerance of 603. Use it where you might have trouble with adjacent bearing contamination with the product, such as start shaft bearing blocks, since it has a little greater viscosity than 603.

638, Green, rather thick: Ultra strong retaining compound for assemblies with a marked amount of slop in the fit, min 0.004". Don't try to use this stuff for normal bearings on healthy shafts. It sets almost immediately in the tight gap, and you'll never have the chance to get the bearing into place.

290, Green: Wicking product for thread locking AFTER assembly. Medium strength, much stronger than 242 blue. Not the correct choice per Loctite for bearing mounting."

Regards, Alberto

 

im thinking of putting an electric heat gun to heat up the shaft and locknut.
ed

 

Next time I would start the motor get it nice and hot, go to your local grocery store by 1 lb of dry ice or so maybe $1 handling the ice with a glove put it on the cap to get it real cold, should work.

 

Possibly in reverse, as the dry ice on the cap will shrink it, thus make it tighter.

I really like your suggestion about the dry ice though, I think it allows for other endless uses. Great tricks!

Regards, Alberto

 

yes maybe, I think the thermal shock either way of the 2 parts stuck together would break the bond between the parts. Dry Ice is negative -110F. It will soon sublimate putting in a freezer to save does no good.

 

Apply consistent pressure and a slight tap every so often .it will work itself loose eventually.

 

The forward of the two caps rarely gets used because of the incident angle with the bonnet - adding oil there is tight because an upside down bottle would be bumping into the hood's underside.

When I went to check that cap it would not budge. I ended up using a monkey wrench plumbing spanner wrapped in heavy cushioned towel allowing a moment arm to apply opening pressure.