Oil analysis after 2.5 yrs in 246

Very interesting. I always make a point to run an engine long enough to get the oil up to temperature. I also always thought that the idea of oil absorbing moisture out of the atmosphere was a bit far-fetched. Thanks for the confirmation.

 

Nice to see empirical evidence to dispell these old wives' tales. Now you need to get out and drive the thing like Corbani does.

 

Being an oil nut from way back I always watch my oil and do UOAs alot to see what was going on, never found anything strange, FWIW I have always understood that it was a concern about the sulfer(in our oil) mixing with the moisture that gets into the crank case not the oil itself since oil and water don't mix. mixing sulfer and water created the acid not oil and water by itself. If you had a very low or non sulfer oil the chances of having the acid problem should not exist. Oil really never looses its lubricating abilities it's the additive package in the oil that wears out so "generally" speaking if you don't use/work the oil, 247 miles, it ought to last along time. Anyway great info for us oil nerds. Regards, Vern

 

Funny you should start a thread like this, as a friend recommended testing just to keep up on engine wear.
I changed my oil <10 days ago and sent the sample to Oil Analysis Lab Inc.
http://www.oillab.com/index.htm

It is the first time I've done it and am curious to see what the results are.

 

That's great information, thanks. As an aside, a mechanic friend of mine told me long ago, to change oil every 1500 for city and 3000 otherwise. Also said if you check the oil and you see it has changed color, you should already have changed it.

 

I received my oil analysis back for my 1973 246 GTS USA version Dino:
All looks good but the copper content. They suggest Oil Cooler, bearings or wrist pins as a possibility. Anyone have any other ideas?
I'm taking over to a respected friend/Vintage racing wrench and see what he makes of it.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Synchro, I would post in the "used oil analysis" forum at http://bobistheoilguy.com/ F-chatter and Enzo owner A E Haas has posted his UOAs there. Try PMing him. Read his oil primer here http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/

 

Being very "pro" oil analysis myself (pulling samples from my cars for about 25 years), I don't think the copper content is of immediate concern; possibly deterioration of (a) sealing washer or the inner edge of a composition (head) gasket.

If it was bearings, there would've been high lead content (you didn't say, but I'm guessing that a previous sample didn't disclose high pb).

Wrist pins would've shown higher iron & aluminum content.

To relieve your fears, grab another sample after 1000 miles (hint: enjoy the drive ).

I'm also a BIG fan of Castrol lubricants. I've torn down many of the engines I've built over the years, and the ones run on Castrol brand have never had any sludge build up whatsoever. They were just as clean on the inside as when I put them together (you could wipe the inside of the crankcases down with a paper towel to reveal virgin cast iron or aluminum).

I've never tried your Lab, but have used Titan Labs (Denver) for a couple decades and about five (5) years ago combined their services with those of Blackstone Labs (Fort Wayne, IN). Initially, I wanted to "test" Titan's findings, I am happy to report that both labs consistantly return the same results.

Sorry about the long post, got carried away...

 

I agree with just about everything Randy just said. I would not be alarmed by the copper figure. I have used Spectrum Labs in NJ for many years and have adopted aircraft standards when deciding on a course of action.
I would be more interested to see a history of oil sampling for your car.

 

I agree with Randy and David. Of all the metals that could show up I am least concerned with copper in the absense of other metals. Copper by itself could be wrist pin bushings. Something not known to be problematic on those motors. I think you will find the oil heat exchanger to be primarily brass.

Check it again in 1k miles and see. If it is wrist pin bushings they do not cause catastrophic failures. Their deterioration is a slow process that gives plenty of warning but in any event at this point I see no reason to lose sleep.

 

Thanks, does anyone else perform regular oil analysis on their Dinos?
Cost is low and it tells you quite a bit about the health of the internals

 

I drive my car very infrequently so use is not consuming or breaking down my motor oil.

That being said, I use Valvoline VR1 to benefit from the higher levels of ZDDP it contains. After reading this thread, I was curious whether the zinc and phosphorus addiditve it contains might drop over time as the oil sits in the engine?

Thoughts?

 

can this be said of other engines then besides the Dino?
also, the OP said he used and tested 15/50 ...is this a synthetic oil, semi synthetic ,or regular ?

 

Jim, called today the Chevy dealer (USA) and do not have the item. Any tips on source, and part number, as the old one does not apply.

Regards, Alberto