Non-toxic epoxy and glue | FerrariChat

Non-toxic epoxy and glue

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by judo, Jun 12, 2014.

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  1. judo

    judo Karting

    Mar 22, 2014
    88
    Highlands Ranch, CO
    Full Name:
    Justin
    #1 judo, Jun 12, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I'm searching for a non-toxic epoxy/resin to lay carbon fiber (got some sweet orange carbon fiber/kevlar hybrid fabric). I'm still lookin' for the right epoxy that's strong and stiff (currently testing ICE Resin, 2 part, 1:1 mix ratio, dries clear and hard [http://www.iceresin.com/how_to/faq/], also thinking of testing Entrophy Resins (datasheet describes some toxicity though?) [https://entropyresins.com/product/super-sap-clr/]). Until then, here's basic info on non-toxic glues I purchased in the U.S. (glues that are environmentally friendly and emit zero VOC's, even when unmixed and when curing):

    -Pond Shield (2 parts, 2:1 mix ratio, custom colors available, I'm using clear color) is good for most anything that needs gluing or coating. It's thicker than honey and will easily provide a millimeter of dimension in a single coat (you can go as thick as you want if you keep the glue from spreading, I got a piece 1" thick by containing it in a sandwich bag). For carbon fiber work, it's better for glassing/decorative pieces (dash items for example) because it's a bit too flexible (yet strong). If you thin it out with denatured alcohol then it can even be used in a sprayer. Since the epoxy comes in cans, I buy a dozen cheap small mouthwash bottles (what you'd take on an airplane) to store the separate epoxy-parts for quick access (I don't like opening/re-sealing the cans over-and-over because it's like working with honey and can be a real mess). [http://www.pondarmor.com/]

    -Mod Podge Dimensional Magic (1 part, no mixing) is water-based and dries clear. It's liquidy like dish soap and will dry pretty thin if you don't contain it. When dry, it's flexible (I've laminated some paper-thin parts using this). []File not found | Plaid Enterprises

    -ECO-BOND Ultra Clear adhesive (1 part, no mixing, similar to silicone) is very clear and stretchy (think fish tank silicone, but very stretchy, like soft fishing bait lures). Good sealant around the house. (will need 10oz. caulk gun) [http://ecobondadhesives.com/]

    -ECO-BOND Heavy Duty adhesive (1 part, no mixing) dries matte-white and becomes rubbery/flexible (but strong). Perfect for sealing/gluing things around the garage. (will need 10oz. caulk gun) [http://ecobondadhesives.com/]

    -Elmer's ProBond Advanced All-Purpose Glue (1 part, no mixing) dries as strong as plastic (with some flexibility). It comes out of the bottle thick-and-airy (think siracha hot sauce consistency, stays where you put it and you can pile it on to get it thick). []Elmer's Glues and Adhesives for Craft and School Projects

    -Gorilla Glue Wood glue (1 part, no mixing) bonds strong to wood (of course) and dries a light-brown color. When gluing (or coating) anything else it's still stronger than plain-white Elmer's glue. [http://www.gorillatough.com/index.php?page=wood-glue]

    -Liquid Bandage (1 part, no mixing) dries VERY quickly (similar to super glue, but non-toxic). It's nice for temporarily holding pieces in place (also consider a hobby-hot glue gun for a temporary clamp). Intended use is to seal cuts on the skin (don't use super glue, use this! Has an antiseptic). [http://www.walgreens.com/store/c/walgreens-liquid-bandage-antiseptic/ID=prod6093853-product]

    Lastly, J-B Weld (Australian packaging claims JB Weld/KwikWeld is non-toxic, the USA sells them with California warnings probably due to the trace amounts of lead/antimony (it's "steel reinforced")?):
    -J-B Weld is a very strong (2-part, 1:1 mix ratio) epoxy that dries rock-hard to a dark gray color. It's thicker than honey when uncured and will stay where you put it. [http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-weld/]
    -KwikWeld cures in several minutes, (2-part, 1:1 mix ratio) cures to a slightly flexible dark gray/almost black color and is not nearly as strong as JB Weld. It's thicker than honey when uncured and will stay where you put it. [http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-kwikweld-3/]

    Tip: Corn starch (or baking soda for stiffness) can be mixed into some of these glues (like Eco-Bond Ultra Clear adhesive-silicone) if you want to make rubbery/flexible molds that handle like silly putty when uncured.

    If I had to choose one for general-all-around-use for the home, it would be Elmer's ProBond Advanced All-Purpose Glue (ready with no mixing). If I need a glue for sheer strength then I'd go with J-B Weld (I've sealed holes in engine blocks using it (not highly recommended), it can also be sanded/grinded down). If I need something clear, then Pond Shield, if....alright..really depends on the application :)
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  2. autowerks9

    autowerks9 Formula 3
    BANNED Rossa Subscribed

    Sep 1, 2009
    1,161
    North Wales, Pa.
    Full Name:
    David S.
    PM sent..
    David
     
  3. judo

    judo Karting

    Mar 22, 2014
    88
    Highlands Ranch, CO
    Full Name:
    Justin
    #3 judo, Jun 14, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  4. Mozella

    Mozella Formula Junior

    Mar 24, 2013
    905
    Piemonte, Italia
    All epoxy formulations are toxic to one degree or another. Protect your skin with gloves and never use a solvent, especially solvents like acetone, to clean your hands. Vinegar works well. The strong solvents will strip your skins natural oil barrier and let the nasty components enter your body. The amines in the hardener are your main concern and sooner or later you'll develop a reaction to them; sooner if you're careless.

    Never dilute epoxy with any solvent like you might do when you thin paint. You will severely compromise the performance of the epoxy. If you need low viscosity epoxy, buy it that way. It's more expensive to manufacture, so expect to pay a bit more.

    If you need to increase the viscosity of epoxy, use colloidal silica (Cabosil).

    If you need to increase the bulk and/or decrease the cured hardness for ease of sanding or when making fillets for example, then use something like micro balloons, glass bubbles, or some similar product perhaps mixed with some colloidal silica.

    The West System folks cater to boat and aircraft builders and make a variety of epoxy products to suit most wet layup projects. Hardener with different curing times are available. They also sell all sorts of fillers, thickeners, tools, and just about anything else a home user might want. In addition they publish a huge amount of good information about how to epoxy. Plus they sell in small quantities. Inexpensive hand pumps are available which automatically proportion the epoxy and hardener so you can use one "squirt" of resin and one "squirt" of hardener to make a properly proportioned epoxy. They take all the pain out of calculating the proper mix.

    A good idea is to have can of resin and a can of hardener sitting on your shop shelf with the pumps installed. When you need to glue anything, grab a paper cup, press one pump and then the other (repeat as necessary), mix and use. It's quick, neat, economical, and easy.

    If you live in the U.S. go to your local West Marine (no connection between the two companies) where you can find some of the West Epoxy materials or go to the West Epoxy web site.
     
  5. judo

    judo Karting

    Mar 22, 2014
    88
    Highlands Ranch, CO
    Full Name:
    Justin
    Much appreciated Mozella, these are important and valuable tips.

    Good idea, going to try this.
     
  6. Mozella

    Mozella Formula Junior

    Mar 24, 2013
    905
    Piemonte, Italia
    Go to the West Epoxy web site and then go to the "how to use" section. You'll find a wealth of information including tips on seemingly simple things like mixing. You would think mixing is a no brainer, but there are a couple of ways to do it incorrectly. There are good safety tips there too.
     

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