Hello all....I have been reading along for a couple of weeks now, great info......here I go !!!!! Out of the blue, a guy I work with sez he has a car for sale, he bought it from an estate sale 6 or 7 years ago. It is white, black interior, auto trans....currently at a local shop with the left hand bank running really rich with fuel. The shop sez it drove good a while ago, has been in storage for awhile, he also sez the solenoids to release both trunk and fuel door are inop, weatherstrips for doors are split, pass side hinges are stiff. Now for the good news........body is perfect, 3 chips in left door rear edge, a couple rock chips in front, not a single dent, scrape or ding in sight....just needs buff and wax. Inside is also great, 1 scratch in driver seat, door panels great, glass perfect, trunk like new with tools and books.....have not seen under car yet, dash is wonderful. AND..........only 11,878 miles.....ser # 55027. Finally, I have said I want to own a Ferrari before I die......could I find a better deal ??? PS: he wants 24k....would sell to me for 20k. What do you think ? Pics to follow.
Provided the engine is tuned up, $20K is an OK price for a "storage" car. Particularly if a 5-spd. The scare quotes are because cars that sit for decades -- as a 12,000 mile car must have done -- can have lots of problems. The suspension bushings are probably dry rotted. That's about $1200 for parts, more for labor. If the fuses are good, the trunk and fuel door problems are likely to be in the microswitches. You can pop one of the switches out and check for power at the connector, and try to jumper the connector to test if the rest of the circuit is OK. The trunk has a cable release in the side panel pocket next to the driver side rear seat,. The fuel door has a manual lever that you push forward to release, on the driver side in the trunk behind a carpeted sheet metal cover next to the hinge. While you're back there check for rust in the channel at the forward edge of the trunk opening.
Good price if it cosmetically good. Stored cars will almost 100% need both fueld distributors rebuilt- use flowtech in alabama- I'd also remove and clean the fuel tank- replace all fuel lines and replace all coolant hoses- So the $20K car isnot the same price as a maintained, driving car with fewer needs. There's no free lunch with these cars.
too much. RH bank is where that motor starts problems. do not buy that car with a motor problem. have a compression test run.
If you can verify the mileage as accurate and get a decent compression/leak down test done then $20k is a good price. Of course you need to replace rubber, bushings, fuel lines, etc etc etc etc. So figure that you will spend as much as $10k to make it right (varies considerably with your ability to do work on the car). I really look at the low mileage as a sign that few mechanics have hacked their way through repairs or stretched the budget of owner # 4 who really needed to get it running again. Cosmetics look great. Good luck!
Hi Gary. Welcome to F chat. 20 sounds like a fair strike price if the motor is healthy. The PPI is needed, as you will want to be buying a car with warped heads or something that would be caught with an inspection. Compression check and leak down. The car looks remarkably nice. I will guess that rebuilding the fuel distributors will be money well spent. May cost a bit. But worth it I bet. Suspension bushings and shocks are almost thirty years old. A :freshening: will be a nice improvement Whil you are there go through the brakes. With no surprises you should be good to go. Do have a bit of money for the odd thing. And go for it.
That is a super nice looking example for $20K. If the engine is mechanically sound -- compression and leakdown -- you should seriously consider it. Do be prepared for problems. A 30 year old car is an old car and it will have its bad hair days. Ironically, however, there are few 1985 cars that are as mechanically simple as this model. The K-Jetronics system is Fred Flinstonian in its simplicity. No computer, no solenoid injectors. Basically a lawn sprinkler system adapted to automotive use. The body on tube frame construction is as old as the horseless carriage itself. Cable-operated heater controls: I can never believe such a high priced 80's car could have such primitive equipment. Go in with eyes open and you'll do fine.
want to buy. I have two convertibles. perfect for Fla. LH drive needs head gasket on RH bank, dash recovered and rust bubbles near windshield fixed, 35,000km. $8,000. power top, lined. black exterior/ RH drive 5,900 miles no mechanical issues, new top and interior, tan/sand. dark blue exterior needs rust bubbles corrected. at shop now correcting poor window movement. drives like new. X Pete Townsend car(The Who) $25,000. have a rare set of wire wheels for extra dollars I can send photos
Great info ! Thanks for all the feedback..... The car is in great condition, needs nothing to the body, does need door w/strips, solenoids or switches for the trunk and cuel door, one scratch in drivers seat and a good cleaning. I have owned/restored american muscle & antiques in my younger years, am a certified auto tech and work in an auto dealership. I am capable of doing all fluid changes, brake flush/overhaul and 95% of repairs myself, having access to all dealership equipt on the weekends. Yes, the f/I system is old tech compared to the brand new Viper sitting in our showroom , but I am putting that job on the current owner to get done, so I can drive it and check out everything else to be roadworthy. Again, thanks for all the replies.....the braintrust is great ! Bare with me, I have been looking at this 400i for 3-4 weeks already....
Yup, you are reading it right, it has been over a month sitting in a shop that the owner picked to work on the fi system, still not running correctly but I offered 18k as is and he countered at 18,500.....I said OK. It is being flatbeded to the dealership where I work today, now starts the $ payment, title, tax, tag, etc. Would like to get it running right while it is at work, more room, tools, etc, I will be asking all of you for advice/diag assistance after I check a few basics, fuel, ign, fuel pumps, etc. I can do most/all repair myself, this fuel system is new to me. Thanks in advance......now begins the adventure !!!!!!!
You have two cars to sell or are trying to buy a car or what? If they are to sell did I miss what they are,model and make? thanks, Doc
Gary,VERY MANY!!!! congrats!!!. It is great to see someone,who has come to this forum,actually follow her/his dream through to fruition. Also hope your bank account doesn't diminish as rapidly as the fuel guage when you're on 5500 revs!
$18,500 for such a nice car will probably be the deal of the year for 2014. The trunk and fuel releases, you probably already know about the manual overrides. The first thing to check is the fuses. Both solenoids may even be on the same circuit. The driveability problem is likely to be easy and relatively cheap to fix, once you identify the cause. The first diagnostic test is the fuel pressure check. There are "CIS" test kits on eBay, and lots of on-line info on the CIS system. It was used on BMWs and Porsches and there are lots of driveway tinkerers working on these cars. Of course this forum also is mainly do it yourselfers too.