Image Unavailable, Please Login Didn’t see a dedicated thread to this, so posting my experience here. I used 99% isopropyl alcohol to remove the sticky on a couple of parts on my 348 and it worked well, but was laborious, and I followed up with a spray coating. I saw the YouTube video that recommended the Neutrogena makeup wipes and thought I would give it a try on my F430 ashtray that is about to be replaced with a cupholder anyway. Overall I think they work well and would prefer them over alcohol. I would say though if you plan to apply a coating after removal I would do a final scrub with alcohol before applying to ensure any heavier constituents in the wipes are removed and the coating sticks. Another suggestion - do a test with a microfiber towel right after what you think is the last Neutrogena wipe needed. The wipes do a great job absorbing the soft coating and even though you may not see any on your finger a little will show on a light microfiber. Attached is a picture of a test with one wipe. I used 3 to clean the entire astray, along with about 15% of the surface area of a small Harbor Freight microfiber washcloth.
That is dang convincing and thank you for the writeup! I was just about to do some! Image Unavailable, Please Login
"Sticky" removal is recurring topic and has controversy...FWIW, about 7 years ago, I used regular Armor All and microfiber cloths to remove the gunk....Started with hand brake to see if it was a bad idea then did everything else. Worked well, took some time, and has not required a re-do, knobs, etc. still not sticky.
Agreed, and I’ve previously posted some other methods I years past. I did not see a dedicated thread on this method though and thought other forum members may find value.
The cup is actually black plastic, the other pieces are painted metal Cup probably just a light sand, then a coat of SEM black trim, then a coat or two of Matte finish clearcoat For the metal.pieces, sand down, prime, sand, paint, matte coat
I'm new to refinishing sticky parts Looks like it depends on the part The plastic pieces look like you can just fit them right back in, but I'll probably coat the for better protection and future cleaning The painted metal, paint looks dry but clean, again, probably could just refit as is but will coat for the abovementioned reasons
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login I went ahead and did the other console piece. Here is a before and after. The ashtray is a different composite and I think looks great without a coating. For the other console piece you can see that the bare plastic finish is irregular; personally I think this should get a follow-up coating. My ultimate opinion on the wipes - For a DIY I would prefer over alcohol or other methods for initial stripping for two main reasons: (1) it is a much less harsh chemical mix to deal with, and (2) the wipes are very absorbent, and make much less mess. An added benefit is they easily clean your hands up too. I’m the end, I plan to send my parts to StickyRX, when my car is down for other service, but this is a good stop gap until then.
The push button switches have a clear soft touch finish. I used isopropyl alcohol, then sprayed with Krylon flat clear. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Just an update on my parts refinishing, I had planned to do a final topcoat for protection when cleaning, etc, but the finish on the SEM is spectacular, so don't believe I'll add the topcoat I didn't realize the SEM is actually an acrylic polymer finish, not just paint, so it is already a pretty protective layer when added to a good primer coat Of note, as a result of the fact that it's an acrylic coating coming out of a spray can, the nozzle can throw drops, so wipe it often to avoid drips on the part Shown: sanded parts, priming, sanded primer, final SEM coat. Looks shiny in the pics, finish is somewhere between eggshell and satin. Matches the rest if the interior well. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Looks proper! What SEM products did you use ? What is your plan for the door levers and “lock” lettering?
Thank you! Wet/dry sandable primer from the auto store, then SEM listed below. Used 800grit dry sand on the bare parts and 1500 grit wet sand the primer, ordered a variety pa k of sandpaper S SATC 36PCS Sanding Sheet 9x3.6 Inch Wet Dry Sandpaper 400/600/800/1000/1200/1500/2000/2500/3000 Grit Each grit Comes 4 Sheets for Automotive Sanding,Wood Turing Finishing, Metal Furniture Polishing https://a.co/d/5IXipZj SEM 39143 Trim Black Aerosol - 15 oz. https://a.co/d/0tbiLip Not sure, door pull removal was much more complicated so I left it for the moment. Probably will remove, sand and paint, then maybe get the lock labels I think I'm actually ok without the lock (and arrows on vents) labels. It's not like they are at all necessary. They're a nice touch I guess.
I did my vents a month ago with Dunlop 65 and it's amazing stuff. I took this pic before cleaning the notches on the rings. To start and pressed flat, I used the top quarter inch of a toothpick to get the majority of the sticky goo off the ring. I then used a terry cloth with the oil, the remaining residue came off fairly fast. That final rub produced a fine shine that does not get dull. For the notches, I used the end of a flat cut toothpick (maybe 1mm thick) that did a great job getting the sticky out and then wiped the notches with the terry cloth. Best three bucks on Amazon I have spent in a while! BTW, popping the vents out was a snap. I bought a 3' metal rod at Lowes, it was about 3/16th thick and cut them both at 12 inches. On one end of each, I used pliers to form a hook. On the other end of both, I bent 3 inches of the rod at a 45, that made the handles. You run the two hooks down opposite sides of the vent to where you can feel the hook catch the bottom and give it a good yank. The vents pop right out and there is no issues with damaging any part of the vent. To re-install, you simply put the vent in place and give it a swift hit with the side of your palm. The vent pops right into place.
Here ya go! BTW, if somebody can tell me the best way to pop out the small 1.5" x 3.5" dash top vents, I'd be appreciative. Image Unavailable, Please Login
ah, not exactly what I had envisioned so this really helps, thank you! Thank you @285ferrari , I looked on your website under F430 items and didn't see the labels, could I ask you to direct me to them? thanks again.
Talk about a stand-up sponsor! Not many companies out there who will further assist the DIY guys that could be giving business to them. Robbie, hats off to you
Great Thread! Thank You For Sharing! Luckily My Buttons Were Done By Someone In The Past But Hopefully It Will Not Be My Last Rari...
Just for the sake of completion... Did not do the pull latch as I didn't want to disassemble the door handle (will probably just use a touch up pen for now), and a bit tricky to get it all back as it came out, but def far better than before Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
