Need advice on cv boot replacement on 355

The search button is your friend. It is just about the same proceedure as this thread.

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78188

It's not a hard job just VERY messy.

 

Actually you don't have to remove the suspension.

First remove the cv joint attached to the flang on the gear box. The end attached to the wheel is splined, with a nut on the end. You will need to remove the rotor to get to it, but that's no biggie. There are two bolts that hold the caliper in place remove those and then move the caliper out of the way. You can use a coat hanger so you don't mess up the break lines. You may need to hit it with a hammer to get it to come loose. When I put my cv joints back on, I just tightend the bolts as tight as I could by hand. Trust me those things are on their TIGHT from the factory. The torque number for the central nut is 250/Nm (25/Kgm). For the caliper bolts they are 64/Nm (6.4/Kgm). For the bolt holding the rotor in place 20/Nm (2Kgm). As for the bolts that hold the CV joint to the trany flang I don't know for sure, but they may be 70/Nm (7/Kgm)? Like I said, I just tightend those down as hard as I could by hand.

Here is another thread with some pics. http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66320. Though this one was for the bearing replacement, but you still need to remove the axle to change the bearings.

Anyway it's not that big a job, just a goopy mess.

 

Incidentally, the WSM for an earlier model Ferrari as yours calls for maintenance of the same relative position of the cv axle to both the gearbox output shaft flange and also the rotor on the other end. I usually use some white out (or, a small punch mark for a more permanent record) to mark the relative positions. May not be critical but perhaps worth doing as it really doesn't increase the overall workload much.

 

Thanks to the thorough information in this thread, I was able to successfully
perform this job. A few notes that I would throw in are:

a) remove the airboxes on the car to allow better access to the CV joint bolts (57 ft/lbs is the proper torque for these bolts)

b) If you have the wheel off, you can still remove/tighten the CV joint bolts by using the screwdriver in the rotor trick.

c) Instead of using the factory inner boots, I was able to use the "aerodynamic race boots" for the 108mm joint.

Many thanks to all that posted here, and to Dave and Wilson of Moorespeed for the suggestion on the better boots.

The heat from the exhaust manifolds are the real killers for the inner boots, hence the use of the better boots.

Here are some pics I snapped along the way:
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Nice update/confirmation, pino.



Hey, where are you located (not in profile)?

 

Pino,
Is this the part and source you used?

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=5549

 

That's it exactly, Dave. I got that information from Moorespeed.

Fixed!

 

Oooooooo, I like that boot.

 

That's definitely a killer for those boots. The small heatshields take quite a beating.

 

I am following the instructions included and going along pretty well but I have a rookie question. How do I get the center nut off? There are two indentations and looks like there may be tabs that bend into the indentations. Any ideas?

 

You could try bending the tabs back out, but that rarely works. Prob in your situation, PB blast and a loooong 1/2 inch breaker bar with a pipe. Don't heat it, you could damage the bearings. If you have access to it, an impact gun will make short work of it.

 

It sounds to me that you need to unpeen the ring nut. Those "tabs" are to help prevent the ring nut from coming undone. You can try prying the "ears" open with a chisel and hammer.

 

No luck. Unable to get the tabs out and break the nut free. Last step and I would be good to go.

 

take a picture so we know what you are up against.

I have always had good luck with those nuts but I don't treat them lightly at all. Cold chisel, dremmel tool, and an air impact gun.

 

Dremmel did the trick and I was able to get the nut off. The long 1/2 breaker bar was the key but I still had to cut part of the tabs away.

I have the lower shock disconnected. Before taking off the upper kunckle there are 4 bolts on the inside of the knuckle which hold the HUB holder duct protection. Do those need to be removed or will the axle pull through? If they need to be removed I can't seem to get a socket on them due to the tight space between the knuckle and the housing.

 

I'm using these instructions to fix my boot while my exhaust is off, and I get to the part that says to pull the axle out of the bearing, yet mine is stuck. Is a slide hammer the best way to proceed? HELP!

 

A big hammer and a block of wood will usually do it. If not, this is the proper tool.
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I just went thru the same pains with my 94 348. I tried a slide hammer as well as a large hammer and block of wood, neither worked. Finally I inserted the the small tube that comes with Deep Creep as well as most sprays desiged to loosen stuck parts into the small gap between the splines and gave it a good shot. After setting for 2 hours or so I used a 3 finger puller I borrowed from a local parts store. Try Auozone or Advance Auto as they loan tools at no cost other than a deposit which is returned when you take the tool back. Anyway the puller worked along with the spray. Hope this helps.

Brewman

 

Once again thanks! "Rented" a puller from O'Reilys today for 25 skins (which I can keep if I want), lucky I had some bolts and nuts to use instead of the studs which wouldn't fit. Had to impact it down then beat on the puller bolt with a hammer, then spray it with PBR and let set several minutes, then repeat about 5 times and it came out. Now I wonder how hard it will be to get back in .. may be asking for more help. I figure I will clean it as good as possible and then grease it up real good.

 

Caution! when using http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecId=5549 as I tried to .. it has very little flex so if you let the wheel drop a little too low while you have the suspension disconnected it will rip the new boot real quick. I had to go back with stock one, o well.