MY DIY Fuel Hose Replacement

Could you give me some detail on replacing the filler neck hose? Did you find it necessary to remove the oil cooler?

 

From the picture of what you took off you have missed three lines - the two steel braided lines that go to & from the CIS head unit and the steel braided line that goes from the accumulator up to the fuel filter. These are rubber/nitrile lines under the braid & carrying fuel under high pressure so they should be replaced because there is no telling what condition they are in.

All three are NLA from Ferrari. I have just had the first two made up and am about to do the same with the third. Any sensible hose specialist ought to be able to sort something out for you.

 

No, just the duct to the oil cooler will need to be removed and the fender liner on the drivers side. It's really easy to get to.

Also, for metric fuel hose go to http://www.autohausaz.com and check the mercedes cars from the last 70's early 80's for the 7.5 mm ID stuff. They have the braided, and smooth type hose and the same Gemi style clamps that were on my car.

Did you buy the 1 1/2" crossover fuel hose at NAPA? PN??

 

I bought the cross overs and filler neck from a Ferrari parts supplier. I know I over paid, $200, but the hoses have little black horses on them. I didn't find this thread until after I purchased them.

 

the cross-over pipe hoses are napa #1030. 1 1/2" i.d. i paid $11.30.
they are considered the same spec. as fuel filler hoses according to gates who makes napa hoses.
also they are intended for immersed applications.

 

Thanks PT328 for your help with this precious info.

Congratulations

 

Great write up and valuable information. Thank you very much.

Jeff

 

Not to be difficult but my hose supplier says DO NOT use oversized hoses, even if double clamped.

Get the correct hose from an Fcar supplier or go to Amazon hose in Orlando, FL [they ship UPS]and use their marine grade 1-3/8" hose [called Bellowsflex]. These are much better especially with modern fuels that can exceed 10% ethanol.

 

I've had the 1 1/2 Napa Gold Stripe on my car for 7 years without any leaks. I don't know how you would get the 1 3/8 hose on the pipes. I used dish soap and it was still a tight fit.

 

I put the 1 3/8" on my car and it wasn't easy, it was a real fight the whole way. I used a lubricant on the hose and pipe, but the fit was so tight that I'm not sure how much stayed on past the bump in the pipe. And there's no room for my hands, etc. Fun!

 

I have to assume that some of the pipes are slightly larger...mine slipped on with minimal effort. It is also a very good idea to remove the cross over , attach the hose on the bench, install one side under the car using the pipe for leverage and then you only have to finagle one side. Worked for me

 

Whenever possible, I use fuel injection hose clamps rather than the conventional worm and screw clamps. They clamp the hose without forcing it through the screw threads, which can cut the hose, and they don't loosen. The appearance is also far more appealing. I use them exclusively, even on low pressure applications.

 

Recently the dealership replaced some fuel lines (not all of them...) Now I have a smell of gas after driving. After much searching I found a small leak of gas coming from the top of the passenger side tank. I've found the 8 mm ID line coming back from the fuel distributor is weeping badly (hard tube ok, cloth wrapped rubber tube compromised) after you run the car for a while. Any tips on how to get at that to remove and replace that rubber tubing? It doesn't look like getting at it through the wheel well is the way to go...

Any and all help is appreciated

Glenn Frenck

 

Hi Glenn,

I recently replaced the exact same line(s) on my 1983 QV. Seems a lot of of other F-chatters are experiencing the same problem with this 8mm return hose. There are a number of other recent threads about fuel line replacement (search fuel hose or leaking fuel hose) - the discussions were more about the type of hose rather than the actual procedure. It took me about 3 hours. Could probably do it in less than half that time now. You should also replace the other three 5" vent hoses at the top of the fuel tank at this time since they were also leaking!

This is basically how I did it:

1) Jack up the passenger side of the car in the usual fashion and remove the left rear wheel and the wheel housing (there are a number of 10mm head screws); observe the usual precautions regarding the use of an appropriate stand. I used a concrete block (maybe 8" wide) laid on its side to support the car under the frame.

2) Remove the air filter cover (4 screws) and the large rubber hose that connects the filter to the fiberglass duct that routes air from the right side air scoop. There is a single bolt that holds this duct in place. This should allow adequate exposure of the hoses that exit from the top of the passenger side fuel tank. There are 5 hoses. See the pictures attached. The hose that is probably leaking is on the far left on each attached illustration.

3) It should be fairly easy to access the clamp of the return hose on the fuel distributor side. The clamp on the fuel tank side is a bit more problematic. I had to loosen the vertical retaining strap holding the fuel tank to expose the clamp screw (one picture shows the loosened strap). The retaining strap can be loosened by accessing the "j" bolt on the bottom of the fuel tank. Depending on the orientation of the clamp's screw head, you should be able to access this with either a long, slender screwdriver or a long 1/4" rachet extension with a phillips screw head attachment. If the screw head is pointing away from you, a right angle screwdriver with a phillips head attachment might work better.

3) Once the clamps are loosened, you have to remove the hose. Some people have recommended cutting the hose (gently) with an exacto knife with slits oriented in line with the hose. I chose a different method: using a small pry bar (Fuller no. 5515 "Heavy Duty Pry Bar" -about 13" long), I was able to lift the end of the hose off the "nipple" - be very gentle. The bar has a "v" that can be used to grab the the hose as well. A large slot screwdriver might also work as least to loosen the hose first.

4) Replacing the hose: This proved to be equally challenging getting the new hose back on. Using a little lubricant (silicone spray) and heating the hose with hot water, I couldn't get the hose on more than about half an inch. So, I took out the mini pry bar again, inverted it and using a long socket as a fulchrum and using the "v" at the end of the bar to "grab" the hose, carefully slid the hose end down on to the nipple. Again, you can't be too careful or gentle as those nipples appear very fragile. Tighten the clamps and you're done with this one.

5) The three 8mm vent hoses between the fuel tank and vapor separator can and should be replaced while you're at it. Loosening the two bolts that hold the separator to the body can give you a little more room to work. No pry bar here nor did I cut the old hose. I used pliers to lightly grab the hose end and twist the hose to loosen it - then pry or lift off the end with a large slot screwdriver. There's a certain order that works best in replacing the 3 vent hoses and tightening the clamps. I oriented all the clamp screws so that future removal could be done with less contorsion.

I won't recommend any specific type of hose other than going with Dave Helm's kit is a no-brainer for the larger hoses (fill, crossover and fuel pump). For the 8mm hoses, like these, I suspect other hoses may do the job.

Good luck,

Wilson
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Congrats on a job well done. Now drive with confidence. Did the same on my 328 3 years ago. Biggest PITA was the limited room above the fuel tanks, but loosening the tank straps gave me a little more room to work with.

 

Get them from Verell, here. Problem solved.

While you are at it, get his kit and replace ALL the plastic injection lines. His kit uses OEM parts at a VERY good price.

 

I got to it from the top BUT it was LONG, HARD, PAINFUL and BLOODY.

If you have big hands, forget it. Go from underneath thru the wheel well.



While you are there replace ALL the fuel supply (tanks, pump and pipes AND injection system) and vapor (Evap System) related hoses.

Don't half-a$$ this guys. FORGET "cheap" or "its 27 years old but "LOOKS OK." It is NOT "OK." Dig out a Parts Catalogue and "Get-r-Done....." RIGHT.

Replace ALL the fuel and vapor hoses, rubber and plastic. Period. Budget 3 solid weekends + a couple of weekday night's work for the plastic injection lines.

Placing the car on jackstands and removing the inner fenders will get you access to everything carrying gas or gas vapor that going from the top can't.

It is all pretty easy with a standard metric tool kit. You can get EVERYTHING you need from Verell and DaveHelms if you want it easy, or you can source it yourself if you like to do things the hard way.

Good Luck !!!!

 

https://www.ferrariparts.co.uk/Images/Parts/Exploded/151/015.gif

https://www.ferrariparts.co.uk/Images/Parts/Exploded/151/014.gif


On the above exploded views, can someone please point out which are the two flexible steel braided fuel lines to the CIS Iain is discussing? Also, I find these diagrams extremely confusing. Why are there two different diagrams for US 328s fuel distribution?