My 308GT4 jigsaw puzzle | Page 3 | FerrariChat

My 308GT4 jigsaw puzzle

Discussion in '308/328' started by kiwiokie, Apr 26, 2014.

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  1. kiwiokie

    kiwiokie Formula 3

    Aug 19, 2013
    1,455
    Tulsa, OK
    Full Name:
    John McDermott
    We did Loctite and longer bolts. Belt and suspenders/braces.
     
  2. NoGoSlow

    NoGoSlow Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Jul 29, 2014
    634
    Republic of Texas
    Full Name:
    Mark Jacks
    Looks awesome, John. Thx for the photos!

    Rgds, Mark
     
  3. ItalianOne

    ItalianOne Formula Junior
    Rossa Subscribed

    May 21, 2008
    614
    Mich
    Full Name:
    Kevin R
    Looks great!! Enjoy!
     
  4. kiwiokie

    kiwiokie Formula 3

    Aug 19, 2013
    1,455
    Tulsa, OK
    Full Name:
    John McDermott
    #54 kiwiokie, Aug 16, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Finished the shifter rebuild. Anyone with a shifter housing that has the spring inside the tall casting should try using some spark plug removal pliers. With one person pressing down on the spring another pair of hands can easily slip on the circlip. I tried using zip ties and string to compress the spring without success.
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  5. kiwiokie

    kiwiokie Formula 3

    Aug 19, 2013
    1,455
    Tulsa, OK
    Full Name:
    John McDermott
    #55 kiwiokie, Aug 16, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Got the engine and sump back together tonight but forgot to take pics before leaving. As is my usual course of working on mechanical things we had to do it twice as I did not notice I had removed the ground facing studs from the block some months back. The Loctite 518 worked great as you spray the activator on the block face and spread the sealant on sump face. It does not start setting until the two come in contact which gives you time to position the oil pickup in the right place and align the studs. So dont forget to buy the 7649 activator when you get your sealant. One thing I would recommend is run an M8 nut on each stud beforehand in case you have some threads that need cleaning up. Had a couple that were reluctant to take a nut but fortunately were accessible with a die. I still need to do some more cleaning on the differential casting.
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  6. kiwiokie

    kiwiokie Formula 3

    Aug 19, 2013
    1,455
    Tulsa, OK
    Full Name:
    John McDermott
    Making good progress now. Even remembered those sneaky studs that poke through into the transmission and sump area.
     

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  7. kiwiokie

    kiwiokie Formula 3

    Aug 19, 2013
    1,455
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    Full Name:
    John McDermott
    Transfer gears on and engine all buttoned up. Now for intake manifolds, carbs etc. The previous owner stated the car had a modification to reduce the clutch pedal weight but cant find anything in my parts boxes that resembles a clutch spring like that shown in the parts book. Might be another bit that went AWOL while the car was stored by the PO :-(
     

    Attached Files:

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  8. GT4 Joe

    GT4 Joe Formula Junior

    Oct 19, 2010
    833
    Dana Point, Ca.
    Full Name:
    Joe Williams
    John,
    Always hard to resurrect a basket case. Keep up the good work, it's looking good and the final result will be worth it.
    BTW, you never did tell me the body # on your car. Are you ready to share it now?
     
  9. kiwiokie

    kiwiokie Formula 3

    Aug 19, 2013
    1,455
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    John McDermott
    That's because I dont know it :). The body is still under a cover at the paint shop that I rarely visit. Once the engine is done I will be down there frequently so will find it and advise.
     
  10. kiwiokie

    kiwiokie Formula 3

    Aug 19, 2013
    1,455
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    John McDermott
    19633500GT and absostone like this.
  11. kiwiokie

    kiwiokie Formula 3

    Aug 19, 2013
    1,455
    Tulsa, OK
    Full Name:
    John McDermott
  12. kiwiokie

    kiwiokie Formula 3

    Aug 19, 2013
    1,455
    Tulsa, OK
    Full Name:
    John McDermott
    absostone likes this.
  13. absostone

    absostone F1 Veteran
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    Jul 28, 2008
    9,182
    euro tail lights?
     
  14. kiwiokie

    kiwiokie Formula 3

    Aug 19, 2013
    1,455
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    John McDermott
    I guess so. I don’t recall the guy I bought it off mentioning the change so may have been done a long time ago. He did remove the side marker lights when the car was painted so it has the “shaved” look.
     
  15. kiwiokie

    kiwiokie Formula 3

    Aug 19, 2013
    1,455
    Tulsa, OK
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    John McDermott
    First major jobs are installing brake booster and heater hoses in driver’s side rocker panel and the two AC lines in the passenger side. Hoping these are not as difficult as most people have reported since my engine bay and front trunk are still empty.
     
  16. robertgarven

    robertgarven F1 Veteran
    Owner

    Feb 24, 2002
    5,269
    Ventura, California
    Full Name:
    Robert Garven
    I will be interested in this as I have to take my engine out but I dont have a lift!
     
  17. sltillim

    sltillim Formula 3
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    Nov 22, 2009
    1,497
    San Diego
    So great to see the update! Love the paint / wheel combination!
     
  18. absostone

    absostone F1 Veteran
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    Jul 28, 2008
    9,182
    Pulling the hoses is a breeze with engine out. I’m sure you know there are two access areas one inside the car below the rear window on each side and a small one in the front wheel wells. I would remove the firewall panels behind each fuel tank by drilling the rivers out. Be careful not to damage the insulation bonded to the panel. The ac lines are fed through a metal loop that hold the lines in place. Best way to pull the driver side lines is drill a hole about an inch from the end of the old and new hoses and run 2 Zip ties through each side of the hoses. Then tape around the 2 hoses and the long end of the zip ties. Make sure the zip tie ends are taped toward the rear of car. Since the hose will be pulled back to front. I used sone car soap to lubricate the hose.
     
  19. kiwiokie

    kiwiokie Formula 3

    Aug 19, 2013
    1,455
    Tulsa, OK
    Full Name:
    John McDermott
    Unfortunately the original hoses on both sides were removed without pulling in new ones or leaving a puller cable to make installation easier. Somewhat unbelievable I know. Thanks for the tip on the access areas, I will check those are open. The firewall panels are already off. I am going to try using a metal fishing tape to pull through some weed eater cord that I can then bind to the hoses to pull them through. I saw others have had success with the weed eater cord but I don’t think it is stiff enough to feed through by itself.
     
  20. absostone

    absostone F1 Veteran
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    Jul 28, 2008
    9,182
    the fish tape would work no problem other than the slack looped all over the place at the pulling end. im sure youll protect that nice paint.
     
  21. kiwiokie

    kiwiokie Formula 3

    Aug 19, 2013
    1,455
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    Full Name:
    John McDermott
    I am not sure if the lift will be much of an advantage when installing the engine (or removing for that matter) since the frame of the lift is right where the legs of the engine hoist need to go. Two post would be a different matter. I could raise the lift to get the legs under but may run out of vertical height with the hoist to get the engine over the bodywork. So I think I will have to roll it off the lift to get the engine in.
     
  22. absostone

    absostone F1 Veteran
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    Jul 28, 2008
    9,182
    I did mine on my lift,,,, remove wheel wells and wheels and set the suspension arms on 4x4s. then shorten the strap that youll use around the front head as short as possible. make sure front header is in its place before lowering engine and sneak rear header in mid way. also I had to install the engine mounts mid way
     
  23. absostone

    absostone F1 Veteran
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    Jul 28, 2008
    9,182
  24. absostone

    absostone F1 Veteran
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    Jul 28, 2008
    9,182
    notice the ratchet strap[ far right] pulling down on body from bumper mount to compress suspension
     

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