Finished the shifter rebuild. Anyone with a shifter housing that has the spring inside the tall casting should try using some spark plug removal pliers. With one person pressing down on the spring another pair of hands can easily slip on the circlip. I tried using zip ties and string to compress the spring without success. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Got the engine and sump back together tonight but forgot to take pics before leaving. As is my usual course of working on mechanical things we had to do it twice as I did not notice I had removed the ground facing studs from the block some months back. The Loctite 518 worked great as you spray the activator on the block face and spread the sealant on sump face. It does not start setting until the two come in contact which gives you time to position the oil pickup in the right place and align the studs. So dont forget to buy the 7649 activator when you get your sealant. One thing I would recommend is run an M8 nut on each stud beforehand in case you have some threads that need cleaning up. Had a couple that were reluctant to take a nut but fortunately were accessible with a die. I still need to do some more cleaning on the differential casting. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Making good progress now. Even remembered those sneaky studs that poke through into the transmission and sump area.
Transfer gears on and engine all buttoned up. Now for intake manifolds, carbs etc. The previous owner stated the car had a modification to reduce the clutch pedal weight but cant find anything in my parts boxes that resembles a clutch spring like that shown in the parts book. Might be another bit that went AWOL while the car was stored by the PO :-(
John, Always hard to resurrect a basket case. Keep up the good work, it's looking good and the final result will be worth it. BTW, you never did tell me the body # on your car. Are you ready to share it now?
That's because I dont know it . The body is still under a cover at the paint shop that I rarely visit. Once the engine is done I will be down there frequently so will find it and advise.
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Carbs are on. Need to start prepping engine bay!
Engine and body finally in same proximity after five years. First time I have actually had the car in my possession. Now all I have to do is put it back together! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Removed rear seat so I can redye. Found some surface rust underneath seatbelt reels on both sides. Will hit it with POR-15 this weekend. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I guess so. I don’t recall the guy I bought it off mentioning the change so may have been done a long time ago. He did remove the side marker lights when the car was painted so it has the “shaved” look.
First major jobs are installing brake booster and heater hoses in driver’s side rocker panel and the two AC lines in the passenger side. Hoping these are not as difficult as most people have reported since my engine bay and front trunk are still empty.
Pulling the hoses is a breeze with engine out. I’m sure you know there are two access areas one inside the car below the rear window on each side and a small one in the front wheel wells. I would remove the firewall panels behind each fuel tank by drilling the rivers out. Be careful not to damage the insulation bonded to the panel. The ac lines are fed through a metal loop that hold the lines in place. Best way to pull the driver side lines is drill a hole about an inch from the end of the old and new hoses and run 2 Zip ties through each side of the hoses. Then tape around the 2 hoses and the long end of the zip ties. Make sure the zip tie ends are taped toward the rear of car. Since the hose will be pulled back to front. I used sone car soap to lubricate the hose.
Unfortunately the original hoses on both sides were removed without pulling in new ones or leaving a puller cable to make installation easier. Somewhat unbelievable I know. Thanks for the tip on the access areas, I will check those are open. The firewall panels are already off. I am going to try using a metal fishing tape to pull through some weed eater cord that I can then bind to the hoses to pull them through. I saw others have had success with the weed eater cord but I don’t think it is stiff enough to feed through by itself.
the fish tape would work no problem other than the slack looped all over the place at the pulling end. im sure youll protect that nice paint.
I am not sure if the lift will be much of an advantage when installing the engine (or removing for that matter) since the frame of the lift is right where the legs of the engine hoist need to go. Two post would be a different matter. I could raise the lift to get the legs under but may run out of vertical height with the hoist to get the engine over the bodywork. So I think I will have to roll it off the lift to get the engine in.
I did mine on my lift,,,, remove wheel wells and wheels and set the suspension arms on 4x4s. then shorten the strap that youll use around the front head as short as possible. make sure front header is in its place before lowering engine and sneak rear header in mid way. also I had to install the engine mounts mid way